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I'm leaking diesel...

Dabba

Dabba

1/2 ton status
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my 6.2 in my cucv is leaking diesel pretty badly now on startup. Where i seeing its leaking from is just to the pass side of the pumpkin. Right above that there seems to be this circular things attached to the lower part of the front of the pass side block. Not sure if its whatever this is or just a fuel line, but i didnt even think the fuels lines ran by the front of the block? Guess it could be the line going to one of the injectors? Ill have to take a closer look when its not hot as balls out. Any suggestions?


On a different note, i seems to have tracked a possible problem for my d-side marker light not staying on with the headlights. (but it still signals) Seems i have a minor coolant leaks out of the holding tank there, maybe the fluids ****in with the wires..
 
Dabba said:
Right above that there seems to be this circular things attached to the lower part of the front of the pass side block.
Click to expand...
That would be the lift pump... but likely the leak could be coming from return lines that run down the front of the block. If one of them is leaking it is time to buy a complete kit and replace them all.
 
Aye, ive heard of the returns lines leaking. Ill have to get down and looks. Is it a hard job? And whats the lift pump?
 
The lift pump supplys low pressure fuel to the IP. It is basically the same as a fuel pump on the old carb'd small block chevy motors (same part number too). The IP can not pull enough fuel from the tank on its own.
 
It could be leaking, but nothing hard. They cost about $15-20 new.

But, check for signs of the leak above the lift pump first. You want to eliminate the return lines first.
 
Doesnt look like anything above the pump is leaking. I see the diesel dripping from the crossmember, and i can quite see but it would make sense if it were coming from the lift pump onto the crossmember and dripping down...

Edit: So how hard is this to do?
 
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Two bolts and a couple of fuel lines. If you can, get the area cleaned up at a car wash first before messing with it and it may save you some headaches. The hardest part about putting it together is pushing the pushrod up into the block while you insert the pump.
 
When I change a mechanical pump, I use a extendable magnet attatched to the side of the pushrod to push it back up into the block and to hold it there as I snake the plunger from the new pump into position.

Works every time without too much hassle.
 
A slathering of grease on the pushrod also does the trick for keeping the rod up in place long enough to get the lift pump in position.

The hard part IMO for a 6.2 lift pump is there is no F'in room to work in that area, hell it's hard to see nevermind getting hands and tools in place.

Rene
 
Yeah, ive noticed that. It looks like its gonna be something im gonna be screamin and cursing about, so maybe i should just get the new pump and have my mech do it. Really not in the mood to deal with a job like that right now haha
 
did it myslef, with hand tools, not too much of a pain. Rene's method is what i used, worked like a charm. The major PITA that i have yet to correctly repair is that the fuel line coming out of the lift pump snapped off. the fitting is supposed to turn on top of the fuel line, it didnt, they fused together into one piece. I attempted bending a new line but I didnt have a proper bending tool. I did a 90* bend and then ran rubber hose from the lift pump to the fuel filter. been running it like that problem free for a while. but recently bought a proper bending tool, and two lengths of fuel line to try and fix it proper.

didnt mean to go on a tangent, but just be sure you dont break the fuel line. it sucks.

Just for checking for leaks, your fuel system works like this....

1. Hard line from tank to frame rail next to lift pump. soft line connects this hard line to the lift pump.
2. hard line from lift pump up front of engine block, and then back through the lifter vally under the intake manifold. exists passenger side, rear.
3. soft line connects this hard line to fuel filter.
4. soft line comes out of filter, and (cant remember if it connects to a hard line) connects to IP.
5. soft lines connect injectors to one another, and run to a hard line on the front of the block. a soft line also connects this hard line to the IP. excess fuel is routed from the IP and injectors to this hard line.
6. a soft line connects this to another hard line by fuel line 1, and serves as a return line to the fuel tank.
 
If you ever find yourself without the proper tubing bender, a can of WD-40, carb cleaner or something similar can work just the same!
 
kennyw said:
If you ever find yourself without the proper tubing bender, a can of WD-40, carb cleaner or something similar can work just the same!
Click to expand...


Bending..tubes with that?....


And thanks K5dreamer for the route the fuel takes, ill take another hard look before digging into it.
 
As long as we are talking about the smaller brake/fuel lines (5/16 or 3/8 OD tubing) the WD-40 can works great as a tubing bender.
 
kennyw said:
As long as we are talking about the smaller brake/fuel lines (5/16 or 3/8 OD tubing) the WD-40 can works great as a tubing bender.
Click to expand...


youve got skills i dont. I did have a cheap tubing bender, and even with that i was kinking the lines because it would pop out of the channel. it sucked. trying to do it by hand was more of a disaster. why i spent 40 bucks on a quality bender and never looked back.
 
Ahhh, i see now, haha, very nice. Too bad its been like 90 degrees with 99 percent humidity, i refuse to work in that haha
 
I've used two trees growing close together to bend lines and pipes before--also used an old V belt pulley in my vise to bend fuel lines--I put a bolt in the pulley hole and clamp the bolt in the vise,and also clamp another bolt the same size next to it in the jaws to use as the "anchor" point..works as good as any store bought tool I've tried,sometimes better..but anything under 3/8" bends pretty easy by hand too--.
 
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