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I'm sad after i've read all the threads
- Thread starter google
- Start date
That's my point. Next subject now
What is the best thing to use if I want to paint my own truck? I want to give it at least a good 10 foot job if not a 6 foot job.
I would like to stay away from spray paint unless there is one that is really good.
what I really need to know are the steps to painting
1. sand it down (what do I use to sand it down with?)
2. primer (how many coats?)
3. i've heared of guidcoat... (what is that exactly and is it necessary?)
4. paint (just enough to cover without any dark spots right?)
5. clearcoat (how much and do you sand down the paint a little first?)
is there anything i'm missing?
What is the best thing to use if I want to paint my own truck? I want to give it at least a good 10 foot job if not a 6 foot job.
I would like to stay away from spray paint unless there is one that is really good.
what I really need to know are the steps to painting
1. sand it down (what do I use to sand it down with?)
2. primer (how many coats?)
3. i've heared of guidcoat... (what is that exactly and is it necessary?)
4. paint (just enough to cover without any dark spots right?)
5. clearcoat (how much and do you sand down the paint a little first?)
is there anything i'm missing?
gambit420s
1/2 ton status
reading 2 and 3yo posts sorry
and i didnt say it was bad i just have a prob w/stating the obvious
why paint it? hell the guy that bought my truck and blew the motor before i bought it, tagged "do unto others" and "it all comes back to you" and some nice smiley faces over the rust and i think its gonna stay awhile...
and i didnt say it was bad i just have a prob w/stating the obvious
why paint it? hell the guy that bought my truck and blew the motor before i bought it, tagged "do unto others" and "it all comes back to you" and some nice smiley faces over the rust and i think its gonna stay awhile...
BIG*RED
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google said:
well without seeing the paint first hand i'll try to answer as best as possible..sand the paint with some 400 grit..da works great for this..at this point if you have small dents/dings fill them with glazeing putty and when dry block sand with 400 grit..wash truck...next go over entire paint with "final sand" and red scotch brites..wash truck...air dry...next go over paint with "wax/grease" remover..next remove/mask off all areas and items you don't want painted...next wet down the ground of area where you are gonna paint, this keeps dust down..next blow off truck with air nozzle to remove any dust..next wipe truck with a "tack" cloth...now primer, with a quality primer two coats should be fine..let dry..apply guide coat if you want..if your new at this i recommend it..i can do it by "touch" but i have done it for years..block sand guide guide coat..reprimer spots if needed and sand again..repeat wash and "final sand" and masking steps..
paint truck..if you want to after paint dries wet sand with 1000grit to knock down orange peel, but not necessary...apply clearcoat..two coats should be fine..let dry..and once again if you want to make it look nice color sand after dry (1500 wet, 1800 wet,) buff paint..glaze paint..wax paint..wash paint to remove buffing, glazzing, wax compund.....ta da!
BIG*RED
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oh and a guide coat is just somthing to use to make sure you sand all areas and sand flat..it can be bought in a rattle can..basically black paint that "splatters" or a powder form theat you rub on..i prefer the powdered type...sand truck until guide coat is gone...then spot primer if needed
gambit420s
1/2 ton status
^^^sheoldeblaze said:lol a tad bit? where have you been? i'm freakin looney
The painting thing. I made a new thread with that subject so others could search it and see it. Plus, is guide coat so you get an even sand after primer then? I kinda thought it was for making sure you got a good coat of paint or something
BIG*RED
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google said:
the guide coat helps ensure you sand all areas..if its still black , then you didn't sand that area...for beginners sand guide coat with a long block..that way you won't get "ripples" or "waves"..these show up in the paint..most people always recommend block sanding the guide coat..for beginners the longer the block the better..after you have done a few hundred like me..you can get to where you can sand the primer with a da and do it by "touch" and don't need the guide coat..then block sand areas where da can't reach.
BIG*RED
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a da is a air sander..now your gonna make me look stupid..i beleave it stands for dual action?...maybe..anyways an air sander it has a round sanding pad on it..and its a "dual" thing a ma jig becasue not only does it spin in circles but it also moves in some what of a up and down motion..or more of and egg shape motion..but when its running you really wont be able to notice this..at low rpms you can see it moving all over..a long block is just a longer sanding block..in a pinch you can make a small block out of a deck of cards or a 2x4..and the same for long blocks..just get a longer block of wood..this is for "in a pinch" situations..becaue odds are a block of wood isn't gonna be pefectly straight..some parts stores might have these, but i get all my supplies from a paint store. here in my town i use knights paint..look in the yellow pages..most, not all, paint stores carry home paint and supplies and auto paint and supplies.
sheoldeblaze said:
So, is it necessary to sand it down to the metal before painting the primer? AND VERY IMPORTANTLY... what do I do different around my back wheel well where it was cut out and replaced with fiberglass. there is a part of it that isn't at all even and I don't think sanding by hand will get it to a usable surface.
BIG*RED
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no it is not necessary to sand down to bare metal..unless your going for a show car paint job..or have a lot of rust or bondo..if rust and bondo is the case..yes sand the rust down to metal, then put a rust prohibator on it..if you have a lot of bondo..well depending on the damage..work the sheet metal some so that you use as little bondoo as possible..or cut and repair the pannel..all depends on how nice of a paint job your after..but you mention 6 to 10 footer..so i would not worry about the bondo..just the rust if there is any..
as for the fiberglass area not sure what you mean..you can sand it with some 400groit..then go over the area with "glazing putty" then sand that..and it will give you a smooth surface..or you can "gel coat" it..
oh yeah, and on the bondo...DON'T use bondo!...i recommend a filler that has metal shavings in it..holds better, and "hides" better..when people test for bondo they use a magnet..if the magnet falls there is bondo..but the filler with metal shavings hold the magnet (just a little insiders trick/tip)
as for the fiberglass area not sure what you mean..you can sand it with some 400groit..then go over the area with "glazing putty" then sand that..and it will give you a smooth surface..or you can "gel coat" it..
oh yeah, and on the bondo...DON'T use bondo!...i recommend a filler that has metal shavings in it..holds better, and "hides" better..when people test for bondo they use a magnet..if the magnet falls there is bondo..but the filler with metal shavings hold the magnet (just a little insiders trick/tip)
