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I'm worried about my first k5 purchase

bjr34bass

1/2 ton status
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Feb 14, 2014
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Location
Yuma, AZ
I'm about to pull the trigger on a k5. I'm worried about the deal. I've driven it. It runs,shifts,steers well. It needs new tires. The owner bought it from a friend hasn't titled it in his name blah blah blah and he had to replace the steering column. It doesn't need a key to start and no keys for the doors (red flags!). It needs tires soon. It's got 4:10 gears, manual hubs, 4" lift, engines been rebuilt at some point. Body in good shape. No dents etc, just ugly paint. Odo reads 99K, so probably 200k. Its a 88 which I like for the TBI. interior is decent, no carpet, but this is a toy so no issue there. No rust (CA truck). rear window missing, front power windows aren't working (one not at all, one barely). Anyway, I'm paying $1400 for it. Even if the engine or trans blows up tomorrow, isn't that a decent deal?

Ive looked at other that don't run/drive as well and people wanted much more than that.

Basically I'd feel better about it if I was paying more! That doesn't make any sense.

Thoughts?
 
Id be more concerned over the title issue than anything else..Get the VIN and figure out how to run it , if the legal owner is the name on the title and there is nothing weird (rebuilt, salvaged, etc) than go for it. Most of the stuff missing is all junkyard parts that you can get pretty easily.

First thing you need to look at also is the steering box area, look for the cracks in the frame. And if there arent any and you buy it, get the ORD steering brace kits, either bolt on or weld on. That would be my first mod.

If its a toy..dont worry about the power windows, either switch to manual (like I did) or go Tube doors. Unless you really want power windows, but being a "toy" id want it to be as simple as possible. Same with the rear window, if you plan to take the topper off, just ditch the heavy rear gate and get a reg. truck bed tailgate, save weight.
 
Its a salvage title. I'm going to pay for the carfax. THe "teaser" on carfax says there's 23 records!
 
Its a salvage title. I'm going to pay for the carfax. THe "teaser" on carfax says there's 23 records!

Dealer breaker for me..unless you need a parts truck, in that case, offer $500 and look for a clean titled K5. I wont touch salvage or rebuilt titles.

I jus re-read your org. post..You said; "id feel better about paying more". There is a reason its only 1400 bux, its all based on a crappy title. A cleaned titled truck could be in the 2000-3000 dollar range.

I still contest that its a $500 dollar truck, maybe a couple hundred more if you really want it.
 
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Too much crap to deal with for that price in my opinion. Even in Arizona, with the salvage title, once you get it driveable and running right, you have to get the DMV to inspect it and then get a "salvage restored" title. I'm willing to bet something happened to it in California though where they wouldn't register it or something with the emissions or some crap that forced it to be "junked"

No title in hand, even in a previous owners name that is signed and ready to be transferred, you're looking at headaches to get it straightened out.

I know there are plenty of clean, rust free trucks in Arizona and can be had for decent prices. I lived there for 25 years.

Do yourself a favor and keep shopping.
 
Has the signed off title, but I see your point.

PLus since it needs new tires, may $1400 isn't a great deal regardless? It just seems like prices are inflated here out west.
 
1400 with a questionable title is not a good deal unless it was something ultra rare, which what you have is not.

The price is dictated by condition, AZ vehicles are pretty much rust free, your gonna pay for that. Trust me, dont buy a clapped out rig to save some money. Body work and rust repair is expensive and dirty work. Id rather have a clean frame and body and a blown up motor/trans/axles, than one rusted out.
 
I ran the carfax. It was issued a rebuilt title in 2003 and sold between then and now. It's had 30k miles put on it since then. I will take a closer look at the frame and talk him down.
 
Most of the records were pass/failing emissions. Luckily I live in the middle of nowhere where that's not an issue.
 
I ran the carfax. It was issued a rebuilt title in 2003 and sold between then and now. It's had 30k miles put on it since then. I will take a closer look at the frame and talk him down.

Ok,,thats a lil better news, just remember if you ever go to sell it down the road, your gonna get the same crap from a potential buyer. I realize we plan to keep stuff forever but sometimes that just doesnt happen. That rebuilt title, no matter how long ago is always a good bargaining chip for you. Id offer $1000.oo if they say no, be prepared to walk (but that is a decision only you can make if you want to play the negotiation game).
 
thanks for the input. I'm not married to this one, but it runs/drive/handles better than others I've looked at that people want more for. I'm not in a hurry since I won't wheel much in the summer here, so I'll walk if I need to.
 
thanks for the input. I'm not married to this one, but it runs/drive/handles better than others I've looked at that people want more for. I'm not in a hurry since I won't wheel much in the summer here, so I'll walk if I need to.

Just remember that if your gonna play the "game" take cash and I mean CASH CASH, not check, money order, paypal account etc etc etc, lol, if you make a low offer, be prepared to buy it on the spot if they say Yes. otherwise, you look like a chump.
 
have you checked with the DMV's website?

Look up their registration fees calculator. You enter the VIN, license plate, and county it's registered in. It will come back with some good info.
 
1400 for a running, driveable truck that isn't rusted out is a pretty good deal. At that price, it's going to have some issues, that is to be expected. I thought I hit the jackpot when I got mine for 1500 with recently rebuilt motor and trans, relatively minor rust, and a decent body. Yeah, the paint was crap, it had mismatched tires, and the carpet and seats were rough, but it ran and drove, and everything on it worked, plus it came with a Suburban parts truck that was in decent shape except for a bad motor.

As long as you won't have a problem registering or titling the truck then you're good to go. I hate dealing with title issues, but as long as you do some research it'll be okay. As for a salvage title knocking down the value, how much lower can it really go if you choose to sell it? It's not like you're talking a newer car and a salvage title making a 10K price difference. As long as there aren't any "death knoll" issues on the truck, offer him cash, offer him less than he's asking, and with a little bargaining you'll probably walk away with a decent truck.
 
It's a 26 year old Blazer. Who cares if it has a salvage title???

Martin
 
It's a 26 year old Blazer. Who cares if it has a salvage title???

Martin

Age has nothing to do with it. Resale and titling can be a real pita, esp. if you get some DMV person with a superiority complex.
 

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