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Improved braking

C

CarolinaBogger

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What can you do to improve braking. I've got a rear disc brake conversion on the way, but was wondering if there were other ways to improve braking, like new master cyl., bigger/stronger front calipers, etc...
Thanks yall

<font color=green>"I'm old enough to know better, but I'm still to young to care!"</font color=green>
 
Well, the 14 bolt is in the garage waiting for money for an overhaul, so it'll probably be a while for that. How bout the front end? Can you get new caliper with more pistons that would bolt up?

<font color=green>"I'm old enough to know better, but I'm still to young to care!"</font color=green>
 
You'd need a bigger rotor with more surface area. Not sure where you are going to find one for a truck, since I have no idea what size a 10 bolt vs say a Dana 60 rotor is, and if they could even be interchanged, along with the calipers.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
Heh, for that price, might as well get a Dana 60 and hope it comes with bigger brakes lol.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
Not sure if it helps, but there is a company out there called Wilwood (www.wilwood.com). You name it, they'll make it. They are a bit pricey, but they are very high performance and can make your rig stop on a dime and give you change. I haven't put them on my Blazer, but their 4 wheel disc setup was awsome on my 68 chevelle.
 
There's a HD 3/4T truck caliper that has a large piston that might help you out, it should give better clamping pressure and still fit in the stock mounts. The only other way is to go to a bigger rotor and that means 3/4 or 1-ton axles. It also means you have to go to bigger wheels to get the brakes to fit inside them.
I think your 3/4T swap is the best place to drop money.

Be aware that the 14 bolt's bigger brakes will help but on a lifted short wheelbase vehicle (like a K5) the front axle will do the majority of your stopping for you. You will likely need to put in an adjustable proportioning valve to turn them down! When I added my 3/4T axles the first time I had way too much rear brake, and that was with 32" tires and 3" of lift.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
I swapped my vacuum booster for a hydra-booster. My brakes are at least 50% more responsive, less resistance and not effected by low manifold vacuum like big cames create. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

I started with nothing and I still have most of that left! - <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/borregok5> Pictures</a>
 
You can get the 13" rotors from a 79 3/4 ton PU and then put a 1 ton MC on. With this setup my K5 would stop on a dime and it had 36" TSL's.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html>http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html</a>
 
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