Yea I have build thread in the driveway section and a larger thread on pirate in the Chevy section under truckasaurus.
CK5
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In line fuel tank pressure sensor for LS swap
- Thread starter K30Blazer
- Start date
Would it be easier to swap in fuel tank out of a newer SUV? thing to get the sealed tank with all the right provisions?
Really just wondering out loud. I know Goat built has a new tank setup that uses an earlier model sender unit with the pump etc all integrated, I wonder if that would work as well? Only thing there is I think his tank design is setup around a taller skinny tank so it holds fuel near the pickup better.
Really just wondering out loud. I know Goat built has a new tank setup that uses an earlier model sender unit with the pump etc all integrated, I wonder if that would work as well? Only thing there is I think his tank design is setup around a taller skinny tank so it holds fuel near the pickup better.
I haven’t seen any newer tanks that would be a direct bolt in so you’d have to go with a $$$ aftermarket one if you wanted something that’d go in the stock location. Looking at replacement tanks on Spectre’s website, the K5’s 31 gal tank is 28 3/4” x 28 1/8” x 12 3/4" and the closest thing to it would probably be a 98-99 Tahoe 30 gal tank that is 30 1/2” x 24 3/4” x 14” so you might be able to get it mounted up but good luck getting the skid plate back on once you do. There’s also a company called Vetteworks that makes weld-on locking ring adapters that allow you to use the newer sending units in any steel tank.
The 2000+ SUV’s have longer and narrower fuel tanks like the pickups so I doubt there’d be any way to make one of those work. I have seen someone cut out the locking ring area from their LS donor’s plastic tank and then attach it to their older steel tank with some stainless fasteners and 2 part epoxy. It actually turned out better than it sounds and let him use the newer LS sending unit with the integrated FPS and correct pump. I'm most likely going to do the same thing since I still have my donor sitting in my driveway...
Here’s how it turned out (post #205): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=627161&page=9
The 2000+ SUV’s have longer and narrower fuel tanks like the pickups so I doubt there’d be any way to make one of those work. I have seen someone cut out the locking ring area from their LS donor’s plastic tank and then attach it to their older steel tank with some stainless fasteners and 2 part epoxy. It actually turned out better than it sounds and let him use the newer LS sending unit with the integrated FPS and correct pump. I'm most likely going to do the same thing since I still have my donor sitting in my driveway...
Here’s how it turned out (post #205): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=627161&page=9
Yea the tank thing is not gonna happen. To be honest it shouldn't be that difficult. The sensor is 0-5v and either vent or no vent from my understanding. I am tempted to put a t junction in the return to put the sensor in
just try the best to keep fuel off it .
Yeah the FPS shouldn't be too hard but I would put a tee in the vapor line going to the charcoal canister that way it'll see the pressure without being constantly exposed to fuel like it would be in the return line (like sweetk30 mentioned earlier).
Just remember the FPS is only half the problem to get the evap system working though. The computer also needs to see the fuel level so it knows when to purge or not and that is something that will flag the smog ref if it isn't working properly. You might be able to make something work by piggybacking off your fuel gauge wire and then playing around with resistors so that the computer gets the right signal from it but that might be a pain too. That's why I was suggesting using the newer sending unit that already has everything you need built in.
If you already have your fuel system put back together I don't blame you at all for wanting to find another way and hopefully I'm not coming off as trying to tell you how it has to be done because there's no real guaranteed way to get past the smog ref inspection. I've just been saving info like this from different CA swaps I've seen in different forums so I don't forget when I get to that point in my swap. Hopefully you can figure out an easier way to get everything working correctly. You know that way other people *cough* me *cough* can copy what you did
Just remember the FPS is only half the problem to get the evap system working though. The computer also needs to see the fuel level so it knows when to purge or not and that is something that will flag the smog ref if it isn't working properly. You might be able to make something work by piggybacking off your fuel gauge wire and then playing around with resistors so that the computer gets the right signal from it but that might be a pain too. That's why I was suggesting using the newer sending unit that already has everything you need built in.
If you already have your fuel system put back together I don't blame you at all for wanting to find another way and hopefully I'm not coming off as trying to tell you how it has to be done because there's no real guaranteed way to get past the smog ref inspection. I've just been saving info like this from different CA swaps I've seen in different forums so I don't forget when I get to that point in my swap. Hopefully you can figure out an easier way to get everything working correctly. You know that way other people *cough* me *cough* can copy what you did
Dang I thought the fuel gauge wire would provide the pcm what it needed? The Pac Fab harness I have had a wire coming out dedicated to the fuel level. I was gonna splice that into the fuel level gauge. Will that not be enough?
Fuel level is a 0-5V signal in the LS fuel tank senders. The square body will have a 0-100 ohm variable resistance signal.
