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In need build help

R

RIPPEDK5

Guest
I need help/ guidance, advice, anything from anyone to help a very willing learner to build his truck right from this point on.WHAT I HAVE:----1982 K20 chevy pickup....- Wood flat bed with battery relocation (on the bed) and an 11 gallon fuel cell (also mounted in the bed).-14BFF with ORD Disc brake conversion (chevy front calipers and rotors)-10 bolt front (stock)-355 ci. motor (really isnt timed well, radiator too small -out of a monte carlo and needs an exhust)- TH350 with TH400 converter, B&M race everything (manual valve body aswell with all new metal parts)-B&M Kick down cable thats not attached-NP208 Stock transfer case-12" of lift (12" superlift springs up front/ 8" superlift out back with ORD shackle flip)- 3" steering block , 6 raised steering arm, and 6" drop drag link-Tube doors from Blazen off-road-auto meter gauges that arent hooked up.---a non installed ratchet shifter-no kick down cable bracket on motor (nothing fits or works)-38.5" tires-Gumbo Monster mudders-theres more--just askI want to do some things to it, like fix loose ends, add hydraulic assist steering, bigger tires, make things function right, and more...Im in need of guidance, actual help on the truck, advice, direction, anything..My project has turned over whelming, and I dont want to part with it... I want to finish it and wheel it. Im willing to learn...I live in Belchertown Massachusetts...Thanks for everything....Greg
 
Glad to see you took my advice. Now sit back patiently and await for someone to chime in and offer their physical help working on your rig with you and also some people to give you ideas on what to fix first and what other mods might be beneficial to you. :deal::thumb:
 
The first thing I would do is fix your steering situation. Either crossover of full hydro depending on if you drive it on the street or not. You definitely shouldn't be considering hydro assist unless you have crossover at least.

Unless you really want a super tall truck I would drop the suspension at least 6". The truck will perform much better and be much more stable.

If you're looking at bigger tires you should probably look into a stronger front axle, 38.5's are well past what most people consider reliable on a 10 bolt.
 
Please keep in mind that even though I shouldnt spare an expense on a truck this big..

I am on a budget, a rather tight one and am now just got my driveshaft finished for the front...

Also that even though its wise to go lower...its far more expensive to change everything again, especially after everythings been modified to meet the needs now....

Id rather continue with what I have that rebuild the whole thing
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
Please keep in mind that even though I shouldnt spare an expense on a truck this big..

I am on a budget, a rather tight one and am now just got my driveshaft finished for the front...

Also that even though its wise to go lower...its far more expensive to change everything again, especially after everythings been modified to meet the needs now....

Id rather continue with what I have that rebuild the whole thing
Click to expand...

Well then the next thing you need to do is invest in safe (crossover) steering. What you have now is far from it.
 
The reason the steering is the way it is. Its because it is what superlift recommended for proper steering correction...

What would be wrong with puting a hydraulic assist on what I currently have?
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
The reason the steering is the way it is. Its because it is what superlift recommended for proper steering correction...

What would be wrong with puting a hydraulic assist on what I currently have?
Click to expand...

What you have there works on the etreet, if you take it off road and your springs are soft enough to flex you will have problems.
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
The reason the steering is the way it is. Its because it is what superlift recommended for proper steering correction...

What would be wrong with puting a hydraulic assist on what I currently have?
Click to expand...

The 3" spacer is the worst part, it puts tons of leverage on the stock bolts and they simply aren't up to the task. Failure waiting to happen. The rest of the steering correction is sketch at best.

You shouldn't run hydro assist without crossover because:

The assist ram is mounted between the axle and tie rod. It doesn't care what the suspension is doing, when you turn the steering wheel left the ram will steer left.

Your "push and pull" steering is not like this. As the suspension moves up and down the horizontal distance between the pitman arm and steering arm changes. What this means is that when the driver side is drooping you won't be able to steer left. Even with the steering wheel at full crank left the tires will likely be pointed straight ahead at best.

What this means is this: The hydraulic ram will be steering left when you turn the wheel left. The mechanical part of the steering cannot turn left (when the suspension is flexed) because of the super short stock draglink. The steering binds and either the steering box is ripped off of the frame or the frame itself tears away in that spot.

I can't believe lift companies actually recommend steering correction like that. You can search on here for failed steering arm bolts (using steering blocks) on dana 60's, I know I've seen several on here in the last couple years.
 
Crossover steering is the only way to go with a lift that big but don't waste your time investing in crossover items for a 10B when you seriously need to upgrade to a D60.

But seriously, unless you are planning on strictly running in mud I would take the advice of these other guys in going with a smaller lift. You might think it's cheaper to stick with the 12" lift but if you start adding up the costs of your rear driveshaft, crossover steering with hydraulic assist, a D60, either a SYE kit for the 208 or better yet a stronger replacement t-case, and deeper gears for those axles, you'll see that selling the 12" front springs/8" rear springs/drop drag link/steering block/front driveshaft and investing in some 6" springs/stock driveshafts with front spacer/drop pitman arm will put you miles ahead in the budget, streetability, and project completion department. Plus with a little front fender trimming & that flatbed you can probably still run the 38"s that you already own. Sometimes it's better to cut your losses and shoot for a more realistic goal instead of continually sinking money into a neverending project.
 
BigEasy said:
Crossover steering is the only way to go with a lift that big but don't waste your time investing in crossover items for a 10B when you seriously need to upgrade to a D60.
Click to expand...

Everything but the steering arm is the same between the 10 bolt and dana 60 crossover kits.
 
38377k5 said:
Everything but the steering arm is the same between the 10 bolt and dana 60 crossover kits.
Click to expand...

Sorry, guess I should have said "...don't waste your time investing in a steering arm AND a drilled & tapped flattop knuckle for a D44/10B..." Didn't think I needed to go into that much detail but evidently I did.
 
It is just a mud truck and light road truck.. Ive already got both driveshafts done.. it has 4.10 gears and i already know it burns the 38.5's no problem.. (tested it myself).. The 3 inch block isnt using stock bolts. It has extended hardened studs..I dont want to cut the fenders.. It looks ugly and its hack work to the body.

I dont really have to worry about flex because I dont do rocks or flexy trails.. I dont like that.. and the springs dont flex anyways..6 leaf fronts with 8 leaf rears..

remember im trying to go forward with what I have..but thank you so far for the input.. I know a DANA 60 is the best bet...but with all the mods you've listed it will take nearly 3-5 years to just accumulate the parts.. Personally I would rather break stuff and repair it than wait another 5 years to drive my truck..Im alreay in it more that 3 1/2-4 years
 
what ever you do, you have to brace the frame at the steering box.

to be blunt... you put too much money into the motor and trans.
 
Your probably right...

I do have a frame brace for the box (its not put in yet, but I have it)..

Think of me at the 16 yr old still in highschool (though im not) who works as the paper boy (thats the amount of money i would have to spend) (not thousands on parts i cant get)

at least i put money into good brakes, and the heart of a vehicle (motor and trans) and ill be bolting up my new customy driveshaft tonight
 
There's a reason you're into the truck 3.5+ years and it's not even halfway finished. Since you're working on a paper route budget your build should reflect that and unless you have deep pockets or lots of time, you have to compromise somewhere. In the long run repairing cut corners usually costs more and results in more down time than building it right the first time. You posted here asking for help and you're getting some very valuable information but if you've already made up your mind then all of this is really pointless. Good luck with your project.
 
That not it at all... I am an inspector making $14 an hour. I get what i can.. Ive been down the 4" and 33's route on my 1985 k5 blazer.. I've had 8" of lift and 36's on my toyota..

This just seems hard to explain to everyone whats going on. This isnt all pointless.. It just seems everyone is telling me to buy multi-thousands of dollars worth of equipment when in reality some of the stuff just wont happen. Im making my best effort here...

Id do cross-over steering if it didnt cost so dag on much for what you get..
The truck is driveable.. I can keep going in the project money wise but i cant just go out and buy a $1200 dana 60 or a$1000 cross over steering setup in a month when theres $1200 dollars in other bills a month for me....

Unless someone wants to buy a 2005 Harley Davidson for $10,200?? any takers???

I do know i need a proper radiator, and an exhaust... I need a kick down cable bracket

it all seems like small stuff...
 
I do love trucks and 4 wheeling. I have true heart for it and all the land I need..

Id love to continue this build; but need realistic basic goals sets..

From this starting point of what I have..... Id love to get cross over steering but i dont want to pay $1k for it...


some simple steps and guidance is what im looking for and the fact that everything i do is outside and in the dark...so it makes it difficult.. im all game for doing things.
 
BigEasy said:
Crossover steering is the only way to go with a lift that big but don't waste your time investing in crossover items for a 10B when you seriously need to upgrade to a D60.

But seriously, unless you are planning on strictly running in mud I would take the advice of these other guys in going with a smaller lift. You might think it's cheaper to stick with the 12" lift but if you start adding up the costs of your rear driveshaft, crossover steering with hydraulic assist, a D60, either a SYE kit for the 208 or better yet a stronger replacement t-case, and deeper gears for those axles, you'll see that selling the 12" front springs/8" rear springs/drop drag link/steering block/front driveshaft and investing in some 6" springs/stock driveshafts with front spacer/drop pitman arm will put you miles ahead in the budget, streetability, and project completion department. Plus with a little front fender trimming & that flatbed you can probably still run the 38"s that you already own. Sometimes it's better to cut your losses and shoot for a more realistic goal instead of continually sinking money into a neverending project.
Click to expand...

RIPPEDK5 said:
Id love to continue this build; but need realistic basic goals sets..

some simple steps and guidance is what im looking for and the fact that everything i do is outside and in the dark...so it makes it difficult.. im all game for doing things.
Click to expand...
The above quote seems VERY realistic.
 
I would look at the very basics.

These guys know their stuff when it comes to lifted rigs. I'm about as stock as you can get suspension wise, so I'm little help there. But I did have to put my truck together partially while I was unemployed, so I feel your pain. :) I made some poor parts choices at that time which later ended up costing me MORE money in the future.

For me, the critical points in the build were this: get it running->get it *safely* streetable. It wasn't ready for going offroad (no front d-shaft for instance) for quite some time, but at least I could see my progress and move it around. That was something.

All I can say is don't rush a build when you don't have money to throw away. You really need to set a goal that is attainable with your finances, and stick with it. If the right part costs a bit more money, save up and get it. It's really best if you can visualize the end-state of the truck (IE, I'm going to have hydraulic assist, a dana 60, 4.56 gears, 42" tires and so on) and then work directly towards that. In my case, I knew I wanted a 465/205 combo, so I knew there was no point buying things that wouldn't work with those...driveshafts for instance, or a 208. Anything stop-gap inbetween just means you spend money now on parts you will end up replacing. With the trucks it seems like using one different piece ends up multiplying the changes you have to make elsewhere.

Stuff like your gauges and what not isn't expensive if all you have to do is run wiring, but again in my opinion if you'll have to tear it out again to get what you really want, don't waste even the $10 on wiring if you don't have to.
 
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