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In the last couple weeks with your help...pics

nutt7

1/2 ton status
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Location
Ahwatukee, AZ -> JBLM, WA
I swapped a d44 and 14bff. The d44 had the big external hubs, and one had a busted dial and was banged up so I threw on some mile marker 423 hubs.
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I went with 15x10 rims with 4.25 backspacing. I used the Blackbird backing plates to avoid trimming my plates. Still had to smooth out the calipers though. Decided to throw a Powertrax No-Slip in the back.
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I also added a tranny filter and cooler. The temps from the high pressure port dropped from 210 to 165!

Here is where I mounted the filter...had to cut the air box thing. The filter is bolted to the core support. I cut the return line out of the rad and put the filter after the rad cooler, then it goes to the cooler, then back to the return line. I chose this location to keep the rubber lines short.
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Look what I found behind the oil cooler...bunch of dry mud! Cleaned it, now my A/C blows a little cooler.
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My tranny cooler was a jy find, and the damn thing leaked under pressure...so I bought a similar sized one from autozone for $60 p/n 911679 (no pic)

I learned how to do this stuff mostly from this site! I used the hell out of the search and got tons of info and advice from YOU! so thanks!

Are the pics showing up real big? I resized them, but they are showing up huge on my screen...
 
Nice job, and it's cool you got such a drastic improvement in temps after! :waytogo:

I always wondered how much a good cooler would drop tranny temps.

Rene
 
Nice job, and it's cool you got such a drastic improvement in temps after! :waytogo:

I always wondered how much a good cooler would drop tranny temps.

Rene

It got up to 200 on a long uphill with the A/C on and 90-95 ambient temp. That's when I found out the cooler leaked. The new cooler is thinner, which is fine, it still does the job. My favorite improvement is the fact that the temps come back down pretty quickly. Previously, when the temps climbed to 210 (regular driving), they would stay there until I turned off the engine and let it sit.

awesome.and nice burb.

Thanks, and I appreciate the help with the gear patterns! It was you, right? :D
 
So they do make a hub for that style dana 44. All I could find is internals. My 44 just has flanges. Old school. Sure would be nice with hubs. I will have to check into them. And nice burb.:waytogo:
 
So they do make a hub for that style dana 44. All I could find is internals. My 44 just has flanges. Old school. Sure would be nice with hubs. I will have to check into them. And nice burb.:waytogo:

Thanks, I had to buy new hex bolts though. The old ones were too long. These hubs are simpler than the stock ones (and look nice!). I ordered mine through O'Reilly for $75.
 
Haven't used it off-road yet...it scared me when I had to gas it a little to get out of an intersection...I was like "how did I just peel out? Oh yeah, almost forgot about the Powertrax, guess it works!" I also understand a lot of our lifted chevys pull to the right a tad and I notice the burb trying to straighten out (pulls left) when I accelerate moderately...then I let off the gas and it goes back to a slight veer to the right. I assume it is from the powertrax but I don't know :dunno: I do like the way it feels so far.

^^^quoted from another post^^^

did you correct the steering for the lift. if not it will cause that pull on acceleration or hard braking.
 
It got up to 200 on a long uphill with the A/C on and 90-95 ambient temp. That's when I found out the cooler leaked. The new cooler is thinner, which is fine, it still does the job. My favorite improvement is the fact that the temps come back down pretty quickly. Previously, when the temps climbed to 210 (regular driving), they would stay there until I turned off the engine and let it sit.



Thanks, and I appreciate the help with the gear patterns! It was you, right? :D

I was one of the few.i just didnt see the burb at the time.just the gears.lol.how do they run now that you left it as is?
 
Haven't used it off-road yet...it scared me when I had to gas it a little to get out of an intersection...I was like "how did I just peel out? Oh yeah, almost forgot about the Powertrax, guess it works!" I also understand a lot of our lifted chevys pull to the right a tad and I notice the burb trying to straighten out (pulls left) when I accelerate moderately...then I let off the gas and it goes back to a slight veer to the right. I assume it is from the powertrax but I don't know :dunno: I do like the way it feels so far.

^^^quoted from another post^^^

did you correct the steering for the lift. if not it will cause that pull on acceleration or hard braking.

Yes, I re-aligned it myself after the axle swap. I centered the steering gear and adjusted the toe to being 1/8in smaller in front. I also added an XJ shaft. It handles better than before. Also, it doesn't pull while braking, only when getting on the gas hard (veers left), then letting off the pedal after hard acceleration (pulls back to the right, or goes back to normal). It's not a dangerous reaction, it's slight but definitely noticeable. During normal driving there is no issue at all. Maybe it has always been like that but I can just tell now due to the XJ shaft??

I was one of the few.i just didnt see the burb at the time.just the gears.lol.how do they run now that you left it as is?

Runs great...I still need to get on some dirt and check the front though. I locked the hubs to help circulate the fluid, it didn't make any noise then...
 
readjusting it isnt going to fix it. you need a raised steering arm, drop pitman arm, or offset drag link. any one of them is an absolute must with 4" of lift unless you have crossover steering.
 
readjusting it isnt going to fix it. you need a raised steering arm, drop pitman arm, or offset drag link. any one of them is an absolute must with 4" of lift unless you have crossover steering.

There is a raised steering arm...I installed it when I put the lift on 4 years ago. I had to readjust the alignment due to the new d44 that just went in (had to put in a new tie rod and adjust it for larger wheels). Under normal driving it rolls 98% straight. It actually goes more straight now then when I had a shop do it when I first installed the lift.

Is there any other possible cause? Thanks so far...
 

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