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In the market for torque wrenches...

nutt7

nutt7

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I have a suburban and I am a self-proclaimed shade tree mechanic. I am in process of putting a 14bff and d44 under there. I need a better torque wrench, but my question for the more experienced people out there is this: What is the upper limit of torque wrench capacity will I need to work on my burb? I find most go 150 ft/lbs, and the next step is usually 250 ft/lbs. I would rather get the 150 ft/lbs with the wider range if I don't need the 250 ft/lb.

Thanks!
 
great torque wrench thread in the Lounge....:whistle:
 
kingpins on a 60 in a K30 are 600 ft lbs, but nothing in a motor is over 90 to 100 lbs...

my 3/8 snappie is 20 to 100 lbs and gets used 90% of the time, I rarely break out the 1/2"...
 
Sears had both the 3/8 and 1/2 150# wrenches on sale for 59 this weekend.
 
Kota4bye said:
Sears had both the 3/8 and 1/2 150# wrenches on sale for 59 this weekend.
Click to expand...

I bought a precision instruments 3/8 16-100 ft/lbs on eBay. Still hunting for a good price on a 250 ft/lbs one...

I also read many bad reviews of craftsman's click types, and they are not lifetime warranty like most of their stuff
 
Aside from a D60 king pin probably the tightest fastener will be U-bolts for the suspension (usually around 135 ft/lbs). There is another reason for buying a 1/2" drive torque wrench along with a 3/8" drive besides the fastener torque value. Lets say you have a 3/8" drive torque wrench to goes from 20-100 ft/lbs and you need to tor a given fastener to 100 ft/lbs, the 1/2" drive wrench will be more accurate AND easier to pull to 100 ft/lbs since the 1/2" drive wrench is also longer than the 3/8" drive (I know some people will say to just use a cheater bar on the 3/8" drive but that's CHEATING). :haha:

Anyhow, I guess i'm just saying there are more than one reason to have both sizes of torque wrenches.
 
Good point. This is why I have decided to get two, I read that some torque wrenches are off a little when you get to their extremes. If I am not mistaken, the one I bought has threads on the end to screw in your own cheater bar if desired.
 
4X4HIGH said:
the 1/2" drive wrench will be more accurate AND easier to pull to 100 ft/lbs since the 1/2" drive wrench is also longer than the 3/8" drive (I know some people will say to just use a cheater bar on the 3/8" drive but that's CHEATING).
Click to expand...

The torque reading will not be accurate if you use a cheater.

Martin
 
82355 said:
The torque reading will not be accurate if you use a cheater.

Martin
Click to expand...

Using a torque wrench that goes to the specified torque value you need WILL still be accurate using a cheater bar (the cheater in this case is only to make it easier to pull the shorter torque wrench until it clicks).

We probably have a misunderstanding of what I meant by "cheater bar".
 
I don't believe we do. It you use a cheater bar, the readings of the torque wrench will not be accurate. It will require additional math on the operators part to obtain the correct torque.

Martin
 
A torque wrench will remain accurate when the length is increased on the handle end (cheater), but if one of the adapters used to get into tight spots is added to the socket drive end. then there are calculations that have to be considered. Most of the adapters come with a chart to convert the wrenches scale to the new values.
A beam type of torque wrench is the most accurate.
The click type are good for about 5000 "clicks" before it needs to be calibrated.
 
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