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Initial start procedure after engine swap

tRustyK5

tRustyK5

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OK, I'm getting close to firing up the freshly swapped 6.2 in my Jimmy. Obviously I'll be dropping about 10 gallons of diesel into the tank for starters, but from there I need some sort of DAN (Dumb Ass Newbie)procedure to follow.

I have a Racor water separator/filter then a regular spin on filter. I'm thinking I should fill both spin on elements with fuel but from there I'm sorta lost as to the best way to get the air out of the fuel system.

I did notice what seems to be a small plunger pump on the top of the Racor. It unthreads and can be drawn up about 2" or so. Is this used to help purge the air?

Anyways...i'm /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif and need /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

Rene
 
Sinse I have never had to deal with that I can't tell you from my experience, but I have read in the past few months a couple of threads on what to do for starting an engine that was sitting for years and after you change a filter, I guess that should apply to you. I remember cranking for 10 seconds (never more than 10 seconds at a time) and then purge the lines, and keep doing it untill you get fuel.
You could do a search I am sure you will find those threads.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I must suck at searches...how do you purge the lines? Do you crack the line at the injectors?

Rene
 
OK, first of all, never fill a fuel filter with fuel before installing. This sends unfiltered fuel to the injector pump, not a good thing. The plunger on your Racor filter is a hand primer. This will draw fuel from the tank up to the filter. There should be some sort of air bleed screw on a the assembly. It may look like a radiator petcock which is what the factory filters have or it may be a plug you need to loosen. Once you pump enough that no more air comes out of that fitting, youre ready to bleed the high pressure part of the system. Crack all the injector fittings enough so that the fuel can escape. Then crank over the engine until you see fuel coming out of the fittings. As each gets fuel coming out of them, tighten the fittings to air cant re-enter the injector lines ( it helps to have someone else crank it over while you look for fuel and then tighten the fittings as needed). When they are all tightened down, you are ready to start it. It may run rough for a while if there is still some air in it, so dont worry. Hope this helps. and good luck.
 
Thanks Tyler!/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Would it be best to disconnect the power wire to the injector pump while purging at the injectors?

Rene
 
yes disconnect it, while you crank the engine. i cant remeber what color it is off the top of my head ill look in a little while.
 
Id actually leave it connected. If you disconnect it, it shuts off the fuel from going to the high pressure part of the pump, so fuel would not even go to the injector lines. Ive never had to purge air from my system to this degree before (on a 6.2 at least) but when I first started my 5.9 Cummins I had to turn the fuel on to bleed the injector lines. Just give it quick blips of the starter, not enough to actually start it. Its not a big deal if it starts, it will run very rough until you tighten down all the injector fittings though. Id wouldnt be a bad idea to disconnect the glow plug system so they dont turn on. That way you can be pretty well assured it wont start while you are under the hood.
 
Cool, the GP's will be manually controlled so there is no chance of them coming on unless i want them too.

Rene
 
Yes, just follow Blue's advice, and you'll be going!

You might want to even remove the glow plugs while you crank the engine over, that way you're releasing compression, making it easy to turn the motor over. Do this until fuel starts to dribble out at least 5 or 6 of the injector lines. Then crank them all shut, install the glow plugs, and fire it up! Hold the throttle down about half-way until it starts to run. It will run funky for a while until all the air is purged out.

You can crank the motor for about 30 seconds at a time, then let it cool off for 2 minutes. Trust me, the 6.2L starters are fragile! (Don't ask me how I know!)

Removing the power to the injection pump is a good tip when you're replacing filters. When you replace a fuel filter on an engine that is already primed and running fine, you introduce air into the system. In this case, you disconnect the pink wire going to the injection pump, and then crank the engine over until you're sure the filter is full. Then you reconnect the wire, and the truck will start right up. By disconnecting the wire, you're preventing air from getting into the injector lines. However, if you're starting with a totally dry startup, you have to work the air out all the way to the lines, so you leave the wire hooked up.

Good luck!

Casey
 
You know what the best idea is just go to your local ford dealership and pickup yourself a f-350 powerstroke ,that would solve all your problems
 
No...all you're trying to do is troll. So **** off, I am too tired to play.

Rene
 
I haven't really got that far yet...I like to have the info I need well in advance. I did get the rad support, rad, and inner fenders on, then routed all the wiring properly. Filled every orifice with 80W90, got the fuel lines connected etc...then I re-grooved my tires.

Everything is getting gone through, cleaned, painted etc. It's tedious but it's looking good. I got a couple more nights on it before start up day.

Rene
 
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