Noek
Registered Member
Is it ok if this is worn down. I am replacing the bearings and the inner nut has a small tip or 'nipple' that the washer fits into. Then the outer nut goes on. Wondering if this is an issue if the tip is worn down.
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Inner axle nut - small tip for washer is worn down
- Thread starter Noek
- Start date
The little dowel needs to stick up close to an 1/8th for the washer to engage and lock the nut. Take a little punch or nail and lightly tap the dowel up out of the nut and all should be well.
This ^^
It does need to solidly engage the washer. The pin "locks" the nut to the washer, the tab on the washer fits in the groove on the spindle and prevents the assembly from turning and losing the torque on the bearings.
It does need to solidly engage the washer. The pin "locks" the nut to the washer, the tab on the washer fits in the groove on the spindle and prevents the assembly from turning and losing the torque on the bearings.
only if the pin is NOT broken off like i have seen a lot from the cheeper axle nut sockets with clearance problems and the pin .
worst case the pin is the same size on 10 bolt / dana 44 / dana 60 . junk yard or parts store hun for one and use pin in yours .
worst case the pin is the same size on 10 bolt / dana 44 / dana 60 . junk yard or parts store hun for one and use pin in yours .
Noek
Registered Member
the nut on the right has that little raised tab that catches one of the holes in the washer. That little raised nipple tab on mine is smashed down, actually kind of ground down, so it will not catch one of the holes in the washer. Is this extremely important? Can I just tighten the nuts down or do I need to get a new spindle nut?
Noek
Registered Member
Ok so I guess the raised pin IS important :/
Dang.
thanks for all the awesome answers, really appreciate the help.
Dang.
thanks for all the awesome answers, really appreciate the help.
Wait is that your hardware? The nuts on the left have the pins.
Noek
Registered Member
No mine are ground down. That is a SS from Amazon. It's a Dana Spicer kit, I am hoping it will work.
Form that previous reply, I am wondering if my socket is grinding the pin down. I have to look into that.
Form that previous reply, I am wondering if my socket is grinding the pin down. I have to look into that.
I'd say 90% of the damaged pins are from parts installed wrong putting the pin against the bearing or the hole in the washer not lined up with the pin killing it when the outer nut is torqued.
Noek
Registered Member
Out of curiousity, what occurs if the pin is ground down and i install it anyway and just tighten everything up? Would this be something serious?
The pin keeps the back nut from turning, when you torque the front nut to 150 pounds. If the back nut turns, no free play and bearings are toast.
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
That's what I did, smashed the pin. Got a new set from 4 Wheel Parts, no problem.
Noek
Registered Member
Well I replaced all the bearings so I hope I don't install this wrong. I understand to torque to 50lbs to set the inner bearing, back off 1/4 turn then torque to 30lbs. This is the part I don't get, you have to install the washer and make sure the hole matches the pin on the inner nut, do I just keep backing the inner nut off until it is lined up with the washer?
And my torque wrench only goes to 150lbs but I think I remember someone saying 160lbs min?
And my torque wrench only goes to 150lbs but I think I remember someone saying 160lbs min?
Green Monster
1/2 ton status
Here you go. There isn't anything on a hub that you should tighten to 160. I think the only thing that takes that much torque is the pinion nut.
The holes in the washer are offset so if you back the nut off and it doesn't line up, flip the washer over. I wouldn't back it off too much before flipping it over.
Many many years ago, I used to tighten the outer nut to 100 but then I noticed this was causing the washer (and inner nut) to turn a little which in turn was digging a groove in the spindle threads. I started tightening the outer to 50 and have not had any failures or damage since. (knock on wood)
Many many years ago, I used to tighten the outer nut to 100 but then I noticed this was causing the washer (and inner nut) to turn a little which in turn was digging a groove in the spindle threads. I started tightening the outer to 50 and have not had any failures or damage since. (knock on wood)
1987 R/V manual:
Adjust
• Raise the vehicle and support it with safety stands.
1. Remove the locking hub assembly (249), lock nut
250), and the ring (251).
Tighten
• Adjusting nut (252) to 60 N m (50 ft. lbs.)
while rotating the hub/rotor in order to seat
the bearings.
2. Back off the adjusting nut (252) and retighten.
£ Tighten
• For Automatic Hubs, torque the adjusting nut
to 47 N m (35 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
• For Manual Hubs, torque the adjusting nut to
60 N m (50 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
3. Back off the adjusting nut (252).
• For Automatic hubs, back off 3/8s of a turn
maximum.
• For Manual hubs, back off enough to free the
bearing.
4. Ring (251) and lock nut (252).
• Tang on the inside diameter of the ring must
pass onto the slot on the spindle (265).
• The hole in the ring must align with the pin on
the lock nut (250). Move the adjustment nut (252)
to align the pin.
Tighten
• Lock nut (250) to 217 N m (160 ft. lbs.)
minimum.
Adjust
• Raise the vehicle and support it with safety stands.
1. Remove the locking hub assembly (249), lock nut
250), and the ring (251).
Tighten
• Adjusting nut (252) to 60 N m (50 ft. lbs.)
while rotating the hub/rotor in order to seat
the bearings.
2. Back off the adjusting nut (252) and retighten.
£ Tighten
• For Automatic Hubs, torque the adjusting nut
to 47 N m (35 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
• For Manual Hubs, torque the adjusting nut to
60 N m (50 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
3. Back off the adjusting nut (252).
• For Automatic hubs, back off 3/8s of a turn
maximum.
• For Manual hubs, back off enough to free the
bearing.
4. Ring (251) and lock nut (252).
• Tang on the inside diameter of the ring must
pass onto the slot on the spindle (265).
• The hole in the ring must align with the pin on
the lock nut (250). Move the adjustment nut (252)
to align the pin.
Tighten
• Lock nut (250) to 217 N m (160 ft. lbs.)
minimum.
Last edited:
Noek
Registered Member
This is the info I received and thought was the correct method. 160ft lbs seems like an awful lot. I went to 150 and it seemed real tight.
All you are doing is using it as a jam nut. It's a bunch, but GM's engineering was probably better than mine.
Might be able to look up some of the max torque specs for fastener size, the torque spec is probably near the top. It is for the lug nuts as well.
Noek
Registered Member
............but GM's engineering was probably better than mine.
Seriously, after all of the work I have done to my truck, I would viciously argue against this point, and I don't even know you
More info.....to make you wonder which is right.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/dana-60-torque-specs.85804/
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/dana-60-torque-specs.85804/
