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input on rear driveshaft needed for the crew cab-need MORE advice

I sketched a design for a drive shaft guard years ago. Used a cut up yoke and u joint at each end. Was a 1/2 tube with a mount on a new cross member at the front yoke and a mount off of the pinion carrier. Set up to hinge in line with the drive shaft yokes.

Don't know if it would hold up.
 
I'm surprised some hasn't built something like that. Maybe they have but it's not on the forums.
 
Hey. Im a little late to the party. Sorry to hear about your shaft...haha. had to.

Anyway. Ive been super happy with Bills Englewood Driveshaft in Denver. He did my Chromoly 1410's for a heck of a bargan when i did my burb.

He also had a couple of built chevys. Id give him a call for sure and pick his brain...and he is Local
 
You know, Scott and I talked about Bills. He built mine wrong, and three other guys I've talked to just in the last month.
Definitely not recommending Bill
 
Bill's is a customer of mine also and he built my front shaft. I try to spread around my business with customers.
 
bent72 said:
Here's my thought.

As we spoke, I would use the solid carrier bearing like Tom woods has. After the carrier bearing, the CC shaft can mimic the K5 shaft, it will function the same
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Jess also said the solid carrier bearing is more for a buggy than a street driven truck. Might be worth calling Tom Woods to see what they say.
 
82355 said:
Move the carrier bearing back 11".

Martin
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Yeah, I think I will be doing that. It occurred to me while 11" is a relatively short distance, that should actually make it easier to accomplish. Gonna crawl under there tomorrow and take a look at what's involved. I also want to double check my angles and see if I might have more room to move it. I would be irritated if I mess up the shaft AGAIN and hadn't moved the carrier bearing this time.
 
Did some solid measuring on the driveshaft with an actual angle finder. I can move the carrier bearing back further than I thought. The unexpected thing I discovered is the pinion angle is way off. It's almost perfect for a CV shaft but even a couple degrees to far up for that.

In order to get the right pinion angle, I need 10 degree shims. From what I read that's considered more than you should try to use. Unless I'm misunderstanding my angles. The output at the carrier bearing is 3 degrees but the pinion is 11 degrees. Add to that 1 to 2 degrees for axle wrap at cruise and I get 10 degrees.

So I guess I either invest in a CV shaft or most likely replace spring perches.
 
I was only able to find 8* shims when I was dealing w/ driveshaft. If you go CV why couldn't you put your carrier bearing where you want it. Meaning not moving your perches?
 
JoshHefnerX said:
I was only able to find 8* shims when I was dealing w/ driveshaft. If you go CV why couldn't you put your carrier bearing where you want it. Meaning not moving your perches?
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I'm primarily trying to avoid the CV because of cost. If I was going to spend that much I'd rather do it for something like a flange setup or pinion guard. Despite the pinion angle, I hadn't noticed any vibration issues.

Long term I want to swap in one of the newer 14blts with factory disc brakes and parking brake setup. At that point it will be easy to take care of the pinion angle. So I think for now I would like to just do shims. I may go with 8 degrees and call it good for now.
 
mrk5 said:
I'm primarily trying to avoid the CV because of cost. If I was going to spend that much I'd rather do it for something like a flange setup or pinion guard. Despite the pinion angle, I hadn't noticed any vibration issues.

Long term I want to swap in one of the newer 14blts with factory disc brakes and parking brake setup. At that point it will be easy to take care of the pinion angle. So I think for now I would like to just do shims. I may go with 8 degrees and call it good for now.
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And an 8.1L
 
Shoot I'll be doing good to get the TBI motor I already have in there.
 
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