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Installing a Camshaft.

WinslowS

WinslowS

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I searched and couldn't find anything specific to installation, how difficult is installing a camshaft on a small block while inside the truck? I was quoted 600 dollars from a shop nearby, and I can pick up this camshaft from work for $86, and I already have an Edelbrock Performer Intake. I also want to rebuild my quadrajet while I have everything apart.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-CL-MTC-1/

I don't have any experience working inside a motor, only changing out outside accessories.

Also, what do you think of this cam in a 400 sb?
 
What year truck?

Up to 80 has a removable center latch support (in core support).

From 81 on the center support is not removable so you would need to punch a hole in it with holesaw to get cam thru it.

Also, rad & a/c condenser will need to come out.
 
Besides stripping everything off the front of the motor, pulling the radiator & shroud, it may not be able to pull out of the motor due to the vertical support in front of the radiator.
 
I swapped a cam in my 83 just by taking out one motor mount bolt and jacking the motor up a little on that side to tilt it so the cam would clear the center support.
 
Its a 72 K5, the 400 was swapped in. I know I would have to take out the fan and radiator, I was just wondering if this was a job that an amateur would be capable of doing on an engine. Also, I know the bigger the engine the bigger the cam, what cams would be good without losing my low end power? I don't do much high reving in the truck, it has 4.88 gears to compensate for the 37s.
 
IMO, the hardest part of the swap will be adjusting the valves.

It will snowball though, might as well install a new chain assy plus all the gaskets and oil change. Might consider break in additive for cam.
 
Yeah I was planning on a roller timing chain, gaskets, and a coolant flush and oil change. I might do the water pump too, but with the electric fans its a pretty easy job.

What all is involved in adjusting the valves?
 
It's not rocket science. There's an initial adjustment that is done during assembly to get things close and ready to run. It takes a small amount of knowing how it all works plus a bit of feel. I suggest buying a book to have with you during the process.

Then, after the cam break in and the engine is at operating temp, you can do the final adjustment with the engine running. This involves loosening the rocker nuts while listening for clacking then tightening just enough to get no clacking, plus a quarter to half turn. Easier explained to see it done in front of you. Maybe look on you tube for a how to vid.

One more thing to note. After installing your new cam change the oil and put in new oil with higher zinc content. Shell Rotalla oil comes to mind. Flat tappet cams like that added zinc. I found out the hard way and wiped out a brand new cam not knowing this bit of info.
 
I was planning on the additive, I run Shell Rotella T in all my vehicles, my dad has had an FJ60 since it was a year old, and thats all he has run. It has 200,000 miles and has never had any internal engine problems, just something with the emissions crap on the outside.
 
A camshaft can be an in-depth job. You need to know how to install a distributor correctly for ignition timing (you would be surprised at how many so-called mechanics have no idea how to correctly do this), you have to be careful not to scratch cam bearings (do not push out cam plug in back of engine). Be careful with double roller timing chains, they have several timimng marks on them, both at the center of the sprocket and edge of sprocket. Sometimes people get confused, and line up the inside marks with the outside marks, then your cam timing is all off. If the cam is not degree wheeled-in for correct TDC, then timing light is useless for correct timing (I use a vacuum gauge in this case). There are a few ways to static adjust valves. I have my own preferred, dozens of times successful method, but I will not say how that is because when I do all “wana-be” engine gurus pounce at once, and cry that I do not know what I am doing. People take engine building as personal affront, so do not be surprised when the flames start flying in your post. Your cam selection seems good enough to me.
 
Get summits 1103 cam instead of that one. I have it in my 408sbc.
 
1-ton said:
A camshaft can be an in-depth job. You need to know how to install a distributor correctly for ignition timing (you would be surprised at how many so-called mechanics have no idea how to correctly do this), you have to be careful not to scratch cam bearings (do not push out cam plug in back of engine). Be careful with double roller timing chains, they have several timimng marks on them, both at the center of the sprocket and edge of sprocket. Sometimes people get confused, and line up the inside marks with the outside marks, then your cam timing is all off. If the cam is not degree wheeled-in for correct TDC, then timing light is useless for correct timing (I use a vacuum gauge in this case). There are a few ways to static adjust valves. I have my own preferred, dozens of times successful method, but I will not say how that is because when I do all “wana-be” engine gurus pounce at once, and cry that I do not know what I am doing. People take engine building as personal affront, so do not be surprised when the flames start flying in your post. Your cam selection seems good enough to me.
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Good point... the hardest parts if its your first time is ti set the dizzy correctly (remember to mark the cap and rotor direction before pulling) and then adjusting the damn rockers (why not go roller tip??)

as for the rest its pretty simple.
 
I have used that cam lots of times, works great. You pry aren't sand running like silly guys in MI so you need that low end grunt to lug around town.
 
look at comp cams 4x4 truck cams that are made for bottom end power that we need to get our big trucks moving.

my buddy just put one in his 400 sbc send him a pm and he should get back to you in a few days. http://coloradok5.com/forums/member.php?u=52422

as said installing cam is drain coolent / pull intake / dist / h2o pump / timing cover and tilt oil pan down / remove v/c and undo all rockers / pull pushrods / pull lifters / remove timing chain set / put gear back on cam to help pull it out / then reverse order and set lifter pre load on rockers.

but cheet and set top dead center before pulling all parts and mark dist rotor to body to help in drop back in .

its not easy but also not rocket science. do it wrong and do it over again also.
 
80' 427 said:
I have used that cam lots of times, works great. You pry aren't sand running like silly guys in MI so you need that low end grunt to lug around town.
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mmmmmm Sand :thumb:. But seriously im really glad I have the cam I got. I still have plenty of low end because of the 400s torqyness, it will put you back in the seat driving around town. Its got a good rumble at idle, but I have good vacuum still, and it says its the biggest cam they have to be used with the stock converter. Kansas twister is running the same cam in his blazer with a 350 and he also likes it alot :waytogo:
 
And I second getting the motor at TDC when setting it all up. I had mine at the mark on the cover... But it ended up being 180* off. Use a compression test to get #1 cylinder set where you want. Otherwise you will know its off when you start it to break in and fire starts shooting out of things :thumb:. (open header breakin with dist 180* = Fire balls out of the headers.... Found that out when it happened to me and the grass lit on fire under my blazer... Lol)
 
I would go roller but my budget is limited, I was dreaming roller cam and all. I need to get the exhaust fixed first, what are some good cheap roller rockers, and how much will they do?
 
Hey 1Ton, I'm curious as to what method your talking about.

It's not hard , but a lot of things can be messed up. I'D be more worried about the flat cam and the particles in the engine and what damage has been done to the bearings and oil pump. guess it depends how bad the engine is and why the cam when flat (wear or bad adjustment, cold start, low oil pressure....or what have you)

All good points mentioned but is pull the drain plug and stick a magnet up the hole and cut the oil filter apart and see how much metal is sitting in the bottom of the pan.

In the end, is still a damn SB Chevy, and very easy to learn on
 
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