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installing a detroit in a 10b

NEK5

NEK5

3/4 ton status
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those of you that have done it, is possible to DIY? Any tips? Would using the stock shims the way they are in there now be good enough, or is the dial caliper mandatory to check the backlash? Is there a way to do without using it?

TIA

EDIT: Also, I need one new bearing for it. Are the carrier bearings on the detroit the same as the stock carrier?
 
If you have access to a dial indicator with a magnetic base, then yes, you can DIY. You have to reset the backlash when the carrier is replaced. Detroits use the same carrier bearings as the stock carrier.

Why put that kind of money into a 10 bolt? If you want to be locked, why not look into a quick lok or one of the other lunchbox lockers? They're cheaper and you won't have to mess with the backlash.
 
A detroit in anything but a 14FF is a full replacement carrier. It needs to be set up like a brand new diff. Your going to have to go through the shimming process just like setting up new gears. I would advise against reusing the old carrier bearings. If your not changing gear ratio then you don't have to pull the pinion which makes your job easier but you still need a dial inicator to check run out.
 
38377k5 said:
If you have access to a dial indicator with a magnetic base, then yes, you can DIY. You have to reset the backlash when the carrier is replaced. Detroits use the same carrier bearings as the stock carrier.

Why put that kind of money into a 10 bolt? If you want to be locked, why not look into a quick lok or one of the other lunchbox lockers? They're cheaper and you won't have to mess with the backlash.
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Because I got it cheaper than a quick lok or any other lunch box locker costs. Plus, a 4.56 gear set with low miles was included, so I can turn around and sell that, and I`ll have end up paying half the amount of a regular lunch box locker.:D
 
resurrected_jimmy said:
if your still running the 3.73's like your sig says PUT THE 4.56's IN !!!!!!!!!!!
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With 33s? I think that may be a little too much gear, no?
 
resurrected_jimmy said:
I misread... somehow I got 35's out of that, 4.56 would be a bit much but with a 700 I'd go for it unless you do a lot of hwy driving.
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Well, probably about half my driving is on the highway, so, I guess it wouldn`t work out. Any other opinions?

Here`s what it looks to come out too. Keep in mind I`ll be running a decent sized cooler as well as a Permacool auxillary filter kit.

RPM Calculator

Gear Ratio 4.56
MPH 65
Tire Height 33

Auto w/OD = 2113

Recommended Engine RPM @ Highway Speed
4 cylinder: 2200 – 3200
V6 cylinder: 2000 – 3200
Small block: 1800 – 2800
Big block: 1800 - 2600
Diesel: 1600-2800

EDIT: With my current setup, it came out with 1723 for an RPM, which is slightly less than recommended.​
 
Yeah, I decided to not bother with the 4.56s, mainly because not only will I have to pay to have the rear done, I`ll have to regear the front as well, which getting all the stuff, ie r&p, install kits, then labor, I`m looking at close to 1k, which I don`t have to be spending, and if I did, it would go towards a new(er) motor. I`m fine with the 3.73s. I have no problem with searching in OD, I get on average 12 MPG, and it peforms well off road. Not worth it, IMO.
 
Warning: I am about to make a sharp left turn.

How do you like that Permacool filter? I have one but have not yet installed it for my 700.

OK, back on track. I keep hearing (and I am sure you have too) that you better buy axle parts in bulk if you want to put a locker in a 10b, but I'm sure it depends on what you do with it. Staying with 33s helps. I guess I always figured that if you were running it hard enough to need a locker, your 10b wouldn't survive, and if you were being gentle enough to save the 10b, you didn't need a locker. Let me know if I am wrong though, cause I have a front 10b that needs regearing anyway, can't afford a D60, and (assuming it ever moves under its own power) it would be nice to have a front locker. I have 38"s though so it's probably a different story for me anyway.
 
BGKYK5 said:
Warning: I am about to make a sharp left turn.

How do you like that Permacool filter? I have one but have not yet installed it for my 700.

OK, back on track. I keep hearing (and I am sure you have too) that you better buy axle parts in bulk if you want to put a locker in a 10b, but I'm sure it depends on what you do with it. Staying with 33s helps. I guess I always figured that if you were running it hard enough to need a locker, your 10b wouldn't survive, and if you were being gentle enough to save the 10b, you didn't need a locker. Let me know if I am wrong though, cause I have a front 10b that needs regearing anyway, can't afford a D60, and (assuming it ever moves under its own power) it would be nice to have a front locker. I have 38"s though so it's probably a different story for me anyway.
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For the Permacool, I couldn`t tell ya, it`s not installed. :D Its going in tomorrow though, along with my cooler.

As far as the 10b goes, well, everyone has a different driving style. I`m not heavy on the throttle, so I shouldn`t have to worry about breaking. But that isn`t always true. There are members out there that beat the **** out of there 10b and still haven`t breaken them. So, its hard to say.
 
I have broken several 10 bolts. My experience has only been with gov-bomb rears though. Every break I have had has been the carrier, never broke a shaft. If I still ran 1/2 ton stuff I would really like to see how one would hold up with an aftermarket full replacement diff like you are about to do. I haven't had much trouble with 10 bolt front ends and never had any trouble with them up front until I moved up to 38's. I still hate 10 bolt rears with a passion and would like to strangle the idiot responsible for putting them under suburbans
 
resurrected_jimmy said:
I have broken several 10 bolts. My experience has only been with gov-bomb rears though. Every break I have had has been the carrier, never broke a shaft. If I still ran 1/2 ton stuff I would really like to see how one would hold up with an aftermarket full replacement diff like you are about to do. I haven't had much trouble with 10 bolt front ends and never had any trouble with them up front until I moved up to 38's. I still hate 10 bolt rears with a passion and would like to strangle the idiot responsible for putting them under suburbans
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Yeah, alot of the people saying 10bs suck, your gonna break them, have more than likely dealt with the gov bomb. I`m not saying others haven`t, but a majority of them have.

I`m just going to stick with the 10bs for now. I don`t wheel much, and when I do, its a little mud, and just woodsy trail rides. They`re a perfect match for me. The only reason for wanting a detroit was so I could replace the worn out posi thats in my rear end. In order to do that I would have to get a whole new carrier, then get the lunch box locker. Instead I went the cheaper route, and it turned out to be the better one.
 
As much as everyone constantly ****s on 10bolts, if they can hold up to my driving style with a lock right and 35" MTZs then I think Ben is just fine. I just have to remind him not be an idiot and try a brake stand on dry pavement... :doah:

Also Ben its pretty easy to swap carriers. Just remember that the ring gear bolts are reverse thread...:cool:
 
Chevy305 said:
Also Ben its pretty easy to swap carriers. Just remember that the ring gear bolts are reverse thread...:cool:
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Good thing you told me that, because otherwise I had planned on just going to town with the impact gun:D

I`m sure its somewhat easy and straight forward, but I would really just like to be able to set the backlash, so I can know that its right.
 
I have a gear pattern chart that shows you where the backlash is at based on the mesh pattern. Then tells you which way to adjust it...
 
If I put the shims in the same spots as they are on the stock carrier, as I do on the detroit, shouldn`t the backlash be the same?
 
with 33s i think you should be fine, locking the 10b, I am still waiting for mine to finally die in the front, but it won't, even turning 39.5"s. but i'm not a tard with it either, i know it's limits. sounds like you got a good deal
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
If I put the shims in the same spots as they are on the stock carrier, as I do on the detroit, shouldn`t the backlash be the same?
Click to expand...

In theory, yes. When I put the detroit in the front of mine I didn't have to change the shims at all, the backlash was exactly the same.

Luckily for you, 10 bolts have the shims outside the carrier bearings. This means that if you do have to change the backlash all you have to do is pull the carrier back out and move some shims around. You don't have to mess with pressing bearings on and off :thumb:
 
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