installing a detroit in a 10b

[broncoman6524]

I get on average 12 MPG,

Ben...I hate you. End of story. haha im getting 12 too! but thats indicated adn once you take off the 10% because of the gears its like 10

I run a lock-rite its easy to use, but since you already have the detroit I would use that. Dont you have a posi in the rear?

While your at it, i would put the detroit in the rear and the posi in the front. You would then have a "true" 4x4 and the posis are typically "weak" enough to let go before it breaks stuff.

 

[NEK5]

Ben...I hate you. End of story. haha im getting 12 too! but thats indicated adn once you take off the 10% because of the gears its like 10

I run a lock-rite its easy to use, but since you already have the detroit I would use that. Dont you have a posi in the rear?

While your at it, i would put the detroit in the rear and the posi in the front. You would then have a "true" 4x4 and the posis are typically "weak" enough to let go before it breaks stuff.

Yeah, I thought about it, but the clutches in this posi are so worn out, it performs just like an open rear end.

 

[broncoman6524]

ah...thats how my gov-lock was before i swapped axles. Sucked, worked in sand and realy realy loose mud anything else open.

 

[smalltruckbigcid]

I just got done doing my 10 bolt today. You need a dial indicator to do this right. The stock shims were to tight for my new carrier (Yukon clutch type)
so I used the shims from the master install kit. I have about 15 shims behind the bearing on the left and 4 on the right. I left the right side very loose by about .050 (bearing clearance) while setting the back lash.

Here's the order you do things
Set pinion bearing pre load. ( I hogged out the old pinion bearing to be a slip fit for setup purposes). I didn't use the crush sleeve during this procedure, just set it to 18 inch pounds of drag by tightening the old pinion nut onto the new pinion shaft. Saves the new nut.

Set the backlash. I used more shims on the left than the right so I could move the carrier around easier for setup. My stock shims were .237 and .249 in one thick shim each. I ended up using about .219 on the left and .175 on the right. The spec for backlash is .006~.010 I had the lefthand stack in and out about 5 times for this. Ended up at .006 backlash.

Next you set the contact pattern. remember to turn the ring gear backwards while holding the yoke to create drag for a pattern. This gets you the drive contact pattern. You set the pinion depth and contact pattern by adjusting the shims under the big bearing next to the gear. My stock pinion came with a .037 shim under it. I ended up needing a .045 shim for my pattern. The pinion came out 3 times for this but the pattern came out sweet. But it tightened up the backlash so I had to remove a .011 shim to get it looser. That got me back to .008 backlash.

The last step is setting the side bearing clearance. I added shims to the right whils checking the backlash to make sure it didn't tighten up. I ended up at .004 side clearance.

Tip- when setting up the backlash I always made sure to use a pry bar and push the carrier to the left before tightening the bolts. That way you are always repeating the position on the shims so the backlash doesn't change.
Hope this helps
George

 

[NEK5]

I just got done doing my 10 bolt today. You need a dial indicator to do this right. The stock shims were to tight for my new carrier (Yukon clutch type)
so I used the shims from the master install kit. I have about 15 shims behind the bearing on the left and 4 on the right. I left the right side very loose by about .050 (bearing clearance) while setting the back lash.

Here's the order you do things
Set pinion bearing pre load. ( I hogged out the old pinion bearing to be a slip fit for setup purposes). I didn't use the crush sleeve during this procedure, just set it to 18 inch pounds of drag by tightening the old pinion nut onto the new pinion shaft. Saves the new nut.

Set the backlash. I used more shims on the left than the right so I could move the carrier around easier for setup. My stock shims were .237 and .249 in one thick shim each. I ended up using about .219 on the left and .175 on the right. The spec for backlash is .006~.010 I had the lefthand stack in and out about 5 times for this. Ended up at .006 backlash.

Next you set the contact pattern. remember to turn the ring gear backwards while holding the yoke to create drag for a pattern. This gets you the drive contact pattern. You set the pinion depth and contact pattern by adjusting the shims under the big bearing next to the gear. My stock pinion came with a .037 shim under it. I ended up needing a .045 shim for my pattern. The pinion came out 3 times for this but the pattern came out sweet. But it tightened up the backlash so I had to remove a .011 shim to get it looser. That got me back to .008 backlash.

The last step is setting the side bearing clearance. I added shims to the right whils checking the backlash to make sure it didn't tighten up. I ended up at .004 side clearance.

Tip- when setting up the backlash I always made sure to use a pry bar and push the carrier to the left before tightening the bolts. That way you are always repeating the position on the shims so the backlash doesn't change.
Hope this helps
George

Well, the only thing I`m going to be doing really is swapping carriers, so it should be as involved, correct? Want to let me borrow your dial, I`ll pay shipping?

I think I should be able to do this. Since all i`m doing is swapping carriers, I`m just going to be screwing out with the shims on either side, until I get a good pattern/mesh, right?

 

[smalltruckbigcid]

Because your swapping carriers, and they are all machined slightly different, you get to do the whole thing. If you are using GM gears and a GM carrier it might work. But since you are using the detroit carrier probably not.

A magnetic base dial indicator is about $25~50 bucks I paid about 35 for mine I think.

Yukon's master install kit was worth every penny. The special tools I used were the dial indicator, a zero to one micrometer, and a die grinder. My press is messed up so everything was done the hard way as far as installing the bearings.

 

[NEK5]

Because your swapping carriers, and they are all machined slightly different, you get to do the whole thing. If you are using GM gears and a GM carrier it might work. But since you are using the detroit carrier probably not.

A magnetic base dial indicator is about $25~50 bucks I paid about 35 for mine I think.

Yukon's master install kit was worth every penny. The special tools I used were the dial indicator, a zero to one micrometer, and a die grinder. My press is messed up so everything was done the hard way as far as installing the bearings.

Not sure I understand what you mean. I have to do the whole thing, even if all I`m doing is swapping carriers? The pinion gear is staying in there, so that leaves me with only having to set the backlash, right? Does the backlash affect the gear pattern? Is basically what I`m doing pulling out the carrier, swapping ring gears, re-installing, then setting backlash?

 

[loafer]

The last step is setting the side bearing clearance. I added shims to the right whils checking the backlash to make sure it didn't tighten up. I ended up at .004 side clearance.

Tip- when setting up the backlash I always made sure to use a pry bar and push the carrier to the left before tightening the bolts. That way you are always repeating the position on the shims so the backlash doesn't change.
Hope this helps
George

I'm not sure I understand what you are doing here???

There should be no clearance between the carrier bearing races (cones) and diff housing. These bearings need to be preloaded. The bearing caps are not sufficient, or designed for reacting the thrust loads from the gear set.

The correct method is to use a case spreader. For most of us these are too expensive so the method I use, and many others, is to establish zero clearance with shims (use feeler gages), set backlash, then remove one of the thick shims, add additional shims for preload (0.005 -0.020in), then tap the thick shim back in which will preload the bearings. Recheck backlash and run a new patter for good measure. If the extra shims for preload changed the backlash too much you may need to switch it to the other side or adjust the shims so that you split the difference.

You can get a good approximate measurement of the carrier bearing preload with the following equation:

Carrier preload = (Total preload - Pinion preload)/gear ratio

I don't remember what the spec is for carrier bearing preload, but is should be easy to find. I know I have it at home if you can't find it.

Hope this is not too confusing

__

 

[loafer]

In your case you need to set backlash and carrier bearing preload...refer to the above post. You will need to measure the pinion bearing preload to establish the carrier bearing preload though.

Not sure I understand what you mean. I have to do the whole thing, even if all I`m doing is swapping carriers? The pinion gear is staying in there, so that leaves me with only having to set the backlash, right? Does the backlash affect the gear pattern? Is basically what I`m doing pulling out the carrier, swapping ring gears, re-installing, then setting backlash?

 

[Chevy305]

I have never heard of carrier bearing preload...

I even have the Richmond Gear instalation video that goes over EVERY step needed to setup gears properly including all the torque values.


And Ben don't let all these fancy terms confuse you. You are right pull out your carrier, swap ring gear to the detroit, then install, and set backlash.


EDIT: Ben I have a new set of carrier bearings and all the shims you'd ever need if you want them. Also you can borrow the install video if you want and my gear pattern chart.

 

[loafer]

Apparently Richmond omitted an important step

Yokon gear has a slightly watered-down version in their instructions:
http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Technical_Help/Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf

Scroll down to the bottom for Carrier bearing preload.





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