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installing a np203

scrappyk5

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I am taking out my np203 that is having problems and installing a good one. I will be unbolting the old one from the adapter. is there a gasket that I need or can I just use rtv sealent ?

thanks
 
I am taking out my np203 that is having problems and installing a good one. I will be unbolting the old one from the adapter. is there a gasket that I need or can I just use rtv sealent ?

thanks

There is a gasket and i would not use RTV.
 
While I tend to agree with Scott here if you can find the gasket use it. I have used RTV several times with my 203 and never had a problem. Usually because I was trying to do it by myself and the few times I had the gasket I ended up tearing it or something stupid
 
Yes there is a gasket. Ultra black has not leaked so far for me, but the gasket may be necessary for endplay adjustment.

Tip:
they are very simple to work on, and depending on your issue and floor clearance, you might have an easier time just swapping the rear halves or even just the internals. I know mine was a heavy mother fer to pull out and put back in.

Use assembee goo from napa on the needle bearings. Makes a PITA a 2 minute job.
 
well I used ultra black rtv when I did my 208 case a couple times on my s10. I wasnt sure if I could do the same with the 203. I will call around for a gasket. If I cannot find one , ultra black it is.

The 203 is making a load clicking sound in 4high loc as I take off from a stop and it gets faster as I speed up , but not as loud. then it kinda disappears when I am coasting then comes back louder as I slow down. I dont know what it is. Since I have another np203 I might as well just change it out, hopefully theres nothing wrong with the spare.
 
well I used ultra black rtv when I did my 208 case a couple times on my s10. I wasnt sure if I could do the same with the 203. I will call around for a gasket. If I cannot find one , ultra black it is.

The 203 is making a load clicking sound in 4high loc as I take off from a stop and it gets faster as I speed up , but not as loud. then it kinda disappears when I am coasting then comes back louder as I slow down. I dont know what it is. Since I have another np203 I might as well just change it out, hopefully theres nothing wrong with the spare.
are you driving with Hi loc on the street?
That is like driving in 4wd on the street, not good for anything in your truck
Only if you have snow on the ground to let the tires slip when it's bound up.
 
are you driving with Hi loc on the street?
That is like driving in 4wd on the street, not good for anything in your truck
Only if you have snow on the ground to let the tires slip when it's bound up.


when I drive in the snow,road,mud,dirt, doesnt matter which , with the hubs locked in and the tcase in 4hiloc. with a fulltime case, its clicking .
Now Jimmy(fido) mentioned its possible that the tcase is not fully in gear. I plan on trying to clean and lube the linkage to see if thats the problem. If not I am just going to change out the tcase.
 
well I used ultra black rtv when I did my 208 case a couple times on my s10. I wasnt sure if I could do the same with the 203. I will call around for a gasket. If I cannot find one , ultra black it is.

The 203 is making a load clicking sound in 4high loc as I take off from a stop and it gets faster as I speed up , but not as loud. then it kinda disappears when I am coasting then comes back louder as I slow down. I dont know what it is. Since I have another np203 I might as well just change it out, hopefully theres nothing wrong with the spare.

Sounds very similar to the symptoms mine has. There is a shift fork that the differential linkage pushes towards the tail of the case. This engages a crown gear to lock the differential in the case (locks in 4x4). Since my shifter plates are really worn out, vibration causes the shift lever to fall forward towards the dash when I'm in 4hi-loc. When braking or coasting, that crown gear catches but does not fully engage, making a really irritating clicking/grinding noise.

Mine has hubs and is a trail rig, so I've just gotten in the habit of holding it in place when I'm in hi (which is almost never). I'm replacing it as soon as I have time to rebuild my 205 and buy a doubler plate, so I haven't put much effort into the shifter. It might be worth it to you to swap out the shifter or even just try adjusting it. The shifters are junk and prone to being out of adjustment, but they take all of 5 minutes to replace if you pull the tranny tunnel off.

Might save yourself all that heavy lifting. Unless a seal is leaking or the chain is twisting off the gears, there really isn't anything else to wear out in these. Mine still had the tag from 1976 and all the bearings were even still in pretty good shape.

This is the collar.:
682bac3a.jpg

91f13183.jpg

If you pull the tail cone off you'll see it right there with the shift fork wrapped around it...not that you'll need to do this if it's just your shifter. Maybe it will help you visualize :dunno:
 
Sounds very similar to the symptoms mine has. There is a shift fork that the differential linkage pushes towards the tail of the case. This engages a crown gear to lock the differential in the case (locks in 4x4). Since my shifter plates are really worn out, vibration causes the shift lever to fall forward towards the dash when I'm in 4hi-loc. When braking or coasting, that crown gear catches but does not fully engage, making a really irritating clicking/grinding noise.

Mine has hubs and is a trail rig, so I've just gotten in the habit of holding it in place when I'm in hi (which is almost never). I'm replacing it as soon as I have time to rebuild my 205 and buy a doubler plate, so I haven't put much effort into the shifter. It might be worth it to you to swap out the shifter or even just try adjusting it. The shifters are junk and prone to being out of adjustment, but they take all of 5 minutes to replace if you pull the tranny tunnel off.

Might save yourself all that heavy lifting. Unless a seal is leaking or the chain is twisting off the gears, there really isn't anything else to wear out in these. Mine still had the tag from 1976 and all the bearings were even still in pretty good shape.

This is the collar.:
682bac3a.jpg

91f13183.jpg

If you pull the tail cone off you'll see it right there with the shift fork wrapped around it...not that you'll need to do this if it's just your shifter. Maybe it will help you visualize :dunno:

Anything is possible but don think its the same as your prob. When I am coasting I do not hear any clicking. The clicking is loud and slow at first when I take off and gets faster and quieter as I speed up, and when I am coasting coming to a stop there is no sound untill I actualy start braking at the end. Thats in 4HILOC. Now when I am in 4HI, The same clicking is happening but alot quieter . Then when I am in 4HILOC, and unlock the front hubs and drive it, there is no clicking at all that I can hear.
I have checked all the ujoints and they are good. But I did notice that because of the angle of my front driveshaft, its possible the tabs of the driveshaft shell up by the flange near the tcase might be hitting when I guess under load. I might need to take the drivshaft off and gring those tabs a little.
 
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