Installing ARP main studs

[Stomis]

First thing I've purchased for the 383 for the cutlass. They came with ARP thread sealer (which I cant seem to figure out why the hell I would need them for the mains???). Instructions are kinda fuzzy.

Seems like I'm suppose to dope them up with the sealer and torque them into the block to 80ft/lbs in 3 steps?

Seems like alot no? I've read around that everyone says use the sealer and put them in finger tight and the stretch will keep them in place. So whos done it before?

 

[imiceman44]

First thing I've purchased for the 383 for the cutlass. They came with ARP thread sealer (which I cant seem to figure out why the hell I would need them for the mains???). Instructions are kinda fuzzy.

Seems like I'm suppose to dope them up with the sealer and torque them into the block to 80ft/lbs in 3 steps?

Seems like alot no? I've read around that everyone says use the sealer and put them in finger tight and the stretch will keep them in place. So whos done it before?

I would follow the instructions.
if they ever fail, you'd wish you'd have.
I think I would torque them down anyway because you want them stationnary when you put the nut on them and tighten them.
Or when you want to remove the nut later on dissassembly, you don't want the studs to come out.

 

[Stomis]

I would follow the instructions.
if they ever fail, you'd wish you'd have.
I think I would torque them down anyway because you want them stationnary when you put the nut on them and tighten them.
Or when you want to remove the nut later on dissassembly, you don't want the studs to come out.

Yeah after re-reading the instructions and browsing the web it seams like you put the sealant lube on the threads, thread them in and use an allen to bottom them out. Apparently the torque is suppose to be the torque used on the caps.

 

[sweetk30]

scott should drop in soon. he has prob installed a set or 2 and give you a few pointers.

and horsepower tv just had a show on few weeks ago. and talked and showed all about the correct and not correct lubes for the bolts/studs.

and basicly arp = the best lube for bolts / studs for repetable use everytime.

 

[Stomis]

scott should drop in soon. he has prob installed a set or 2 and give you a few pointers.

and horsepower tv just had a show on few weeks ago. and talked and showed all about the correct and not correct lubes for the bolts/studs.

Yeah the instructions specifically said "do not use motor oil to lube"

 

[sweetk30]

if you can find that episode thay show the bad stuff and what happened to the test parts. not good.

 

[sweetk30]

i got it yaaaaa

[YOUTUBE]6-XXVk_vwKw[/YOUTUBE]

 

[DEMON44]

I've got moly and International Compound #2 (peanut butter) readily availiable at my shop, may have to rethink the next home application.

Peanut butter (International COmpound #2) is factory Detroit lube on flywheel bolts and headbolts.

 

[76zimmer]

The ARP's I put in my BB, it said to finger thread them in assemble bearings/caps and use the supplied lube on the threads and seat for the washer and nut, and torque to their spec, not the GM spec.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Studs DO NOT get tightened beyond hand tight, the clamping force is done when you tighten the nut. The best bet is to use the ARP lube on the threads going into the block and then when you tighten the nuts you need to make sure you not only put the lube on the threads of the stud/nut but also on both sides of the washer where it will meet with the main cap and the nut. Make sure the washer gets installed with the correct side facing up (should have the beveled side against the nut).