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Installing head, need help with valve guides and rockers

CraigFulton

CraigFulton

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I am going to be installing the head in a few days and looking for some help on setting the valve guides and rockers. The old manual I have has some pretty generic descriptions: set the distributor to 1 and then adjust specific valves (listed in the book) by tightening until the rod doesn’t spin and then tighten a full turn.

Is this good enough? This is a stock 400ci. Any advice welcomed. Thanks!
 
If you set it at top TDC for the cylinder you are adjusting, that works fine.
I like to set them running after the initial set up, and that is a messy process
 
From the Chilton book #5974

Set half the valves at #1 TDC, the turn one full rotation to #6 and do the rest

Just remember your fire order and which valve you’re on. Take your time

A500AF20-74BC-4411-AD11-5BB529B61FC9.jpeg
 
Ok my manual has the same except for the part while the engine is hot and running!? Wtf. Is that necessary??
 
CraigFulton said:
I am going to be installing the head in a few days and looking for some help on setting the valve guides and rockers. The old manual I have has some pretty generic descriptions: set the distributor to 1 and then adjust specific valves (listed in the book) by tightening until the rod doesn’t spin and then tighten a full turn.

Is this good enough? This is a stock 400ci. Any advice welcomed. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Spin pushrods until you feel slight *drag* to rotation, then another 1/2 to 1 full turn on the nut is the way I always do it.

There are as many thoughts on this as anything else, but I think eliminating all possible movement is not the best method for a hydraulic lifter. The pushrod "cups" on the lifters do not have much spring pressure to resist collapsing.

Hot setting the lash is ensuring the lifters are all pumped up, thus establishing a bit of consistency in how they are adjusted. Unlike not running, on used lifters, where some may remain pumped up, and not others. I tried it once with engine running. Too messy for my tastes, and I couldnt bring myself to sacrifice any of my valve covers for the cause.
 
I've always thought a windowed valve cover would be a good idea. I don't enjoy the mess either.
 
Spin the pushrod as you tighten the nut. Use something like a wrench, so you can tighten and loosen without having to reset a ratchet. You will find that feel after a couple of them. Then use what you learned, on the others. Don't hesitate to re check. Touch plus 3/4 turn, works great.
 
The plan is one more time for the rest of my life :-)

I will do a non running adjustment. Plan to soak lifters in oil over night before adjusting. Then if I hear any chatter I will adjust with it running. I’ll pick up one of these valve covers to keep oil down. Engine is now repainted and spotless. I don’t need another mess.
 
if you have an old distributor take the gear off cut the mechanic advance off the top. Install his modified dist using a 1/2" drill motor turn the dist clockwise this will prime your oil system and pump up your lifters. then you can do static valve adjustment. As you take the play out, you are looking for zero lash, no up down movement of push rod, then do 1 turn. your are aiming to center the plunger in the hydraulic lifer. 1/2 3/4 or 1 turn are all acceptable. I do 1/2 turn from zero lash. after this adjustment you should be good to go no need for further adjustments.
 
Today is the day folks. I got it all out back together last night and now need to do the adjustment.

If I have problems now, this Blazer will becomes a giant paper weight.

78D93629-BF1F-4C87-875F-936DF4B57D47.jpeg
 
Adjusting hydraulic lifters is not as scary as you think. Timing the distributor can be a little tricky for a novice. The picture you posted, is the eng at #1 TDC? If so the distributor is not right.
 
Wes Harden said:
Adjusting hydraulic lifters is not as scary as you think. Timing the distributor can be a little tricky for a novice. The picture you posted, is the eng at #1 TDC? If so the distributor is not right.
Click to expand...
Nooo. Hahaha. I was fighting with it and gave up last night. Got back on it today. The first pic below it’s pointed to #6. It’s all buttoned up and running better than ever! I tightened the rockers 1 full turn once rods got tight. All good. The Holley EFI is showing 13.5 AF and it at 10 degrees advance at idle.

Once I got in there I found the last guy also only hand tightened the spark plugs. This guy was a real idiot.

Thanks everyone for the advice!

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it shouldn't, no flange on stud(like a washer)? those brass nut might come loose thou
 
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