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Instead of moving 1 ton 14ff spring perches...

N

Ned Kelly

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 1, 2005
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Winnipeg, MB
I understand when installing a 1 ton 14ff into a k5/burb etc, that the 1 ton's axle spring perches are mounted more outward (or inward, can't recall), and that new perches need to be welded in the correct position.

Are the 1 ton spring hangers different? If I bolted the 1 ton spring hangers onto the burb frame, would that let me then just bolt the 1 ton axle in, without having to move the axle perches?
 
Ned Kelly said:
I understand when installing a 1 ton 14ff into a k5/burb etc, that the 1 ton's axle spring perches are mounted more outward (or inward, can't recall), and that new perches need to be welded in the correct position.

Are the 1 ton spring hangers different? If I bolted the 1 ton spring hangers onto the burb frame, would that let me then just bolt the 1 ton axle in, without having to move the axle perches?
Click to expand...


Yes all you need is the 1 ton front hanger and either a 1 ton shackle flip or 1 ton rear shackle hanger.
 
The holes may not line up between the frame and bracket, as the 1ton frame is taller than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton frame. I had to redrill the bracket AND the frame to make it work on my truck. CUCV hangers on a blazer frame. Since the 1ton brackets are approx 1" taller than the 1/2 ton brackets, I also spaced them down 1" off the bottom of the frame for a little extra lift out of my stock springs. Since I was going to have to redrill all these holes, I also move the hanger 4" forward so I could use 56" springs backwards and maintain stock wheelbase.

How much taller the 1 ton hangers are than a 1/2 ton frame
rearmockup2.jpg


You can see the 1" spacer block between the bottom of the frame and the lower support bracket if you look close.
rearaxlein1.jpg
 
I'd like to see a good write up of this conversion. Does stability suffer from running the shocks further inboard?

Edit: It seems I recall someone mentioning conversion brackets. Does someone like Kert make them? ('m interested because most of the 14BFF's I run across are always 1-ton axles.)
 
I have had my springs in the stock location inboarded under the frame and now just outside the frame. I like where mine are now. There is a little more sway the more inboard you go of course its exagerated in soft springs. I think the extra flex is worth it.
 
Kert (aka DIY4x) can make them, he did for me.

DSCF2907.jpg


I used a 1ton version 2.5" flip from ORD on the other end.

Didn't inboard my shocks. You can see what I did in the Product Review section. With the 1-ton perches there's technically more room for the shock between the drums and perches.
 
Ned Kelly said:
I understand when installing a 1 ton 14ff into a k5/burb etc, that the 1 ton's axle spring perches are mounted more outward (or inward, can't recall), and that new perches need to be welded in the correct position.

Are the 1 ton spring hangers different? If I bolted the 1 ton spring hangers onto the burb frame, would that let me then just bolt the 1 ton axle in, without having to move the axle perches?
Click to expand...

Moving axle perches seems like a whole lot less work than moving spring hangers. :confused:
 
I just went through this a few months ago. I got told not to worry about it but when I tried that it was WAY to much bind. My solution was to use the other axle I had. but I highly doubt it will make a noticable differnce in the side to side sway.

Im sure Kert will build ya anything you want for the right price.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Moving axle perches seems like a whole lot less work than moving spring hangers. :confused:
Click to expand...
I think it depends on the situation. If you have a welder and lay good beads - or a buddy so equipped - you are probably right. Although I've heard the older cast perches are very difficult to remove.

Somebody with just an angle grinder can swap out spring hangers. I also think if you are already planning to do a shackle flip, swapping hangers would be the "easier" route.

If your not planning to do a flip, then moving the perches would be easier and more practical.

Of course all this is really just opinion, so that's mine. :dunno:

I will say removing the upper-foward rivet on the front hanger is a real pain in the arse.
 
mrk5 said:
I think it depends on the situation. If you have a welder and lay good beads - or a buddy so equipped - you are probably right. Although I've heard the older cast perches are very difficult to remove.

Somebody with just an angle grinder can swap out spring hangers. I also think if you are already planning to do a shackle flip, swapping hangers would be the "easier" route.

If your not planning to do a flip, then moving the perches would be easier and more practical.

Of course all this is really just opinion, so that's mine. :dunno:

I will say removing the upper-foward rivet on the front hanger is a real pain in the arse.
Click to expand...
i can say that the cast perches are as easy to remove as the stamped ones. they both take the same grinder and BFH
 
fixed, and tons of guys from pirate love them and they are 30 minutes from me... and brad abrnes (owner of barnes 4wd) is a really nice guy, i talked to him about the kit along with some other stuff, a smart guy
 
Masiony said:
i can say that the cast perches are as easy to remove as the stamped ones. they both take the same grinder and BFH
Click to expand...
I've only removed the steel perches, so I was just going off heresay. :doah:
 
Did some of the 14 bolts have the same spring perches as the 1/2 ton stuff? I just got a 14blt and have measured it. The perches seem to be exactly the same. Am I measuring wrong, or is it possible that they are the same?
 
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