Float or the capacitor on the back of the fuel gauge on the cluster....
CK5
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Instrument panel??? Won’t fit
- Thread starter scoots90245
- Start date
I have a spare is there a way to check it before I swap a bad one for a bad one
Voltmeter but as far as what setting and such to check, I dont know. Some others Im sure will be along to help out.
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Put a test light between one side of guage and 12v other to ground should read between 1/2and 5/8 depending bulb resistance
The resistor should have a specific resistance between the two poles. Not open.
BTW, regular JB Weld is not made for plastics. I've used it before I knew better, but there are better products, including JB Weld for plastic. Personally I'd think some sort of fiberglass would work better to hold the brittle stuff together.
BTW, regular JB Weld is not made for plastics. I've used it before I knew better, but there are better products, including JB Weld for plastic. Personally I'd think some sort of fiberglass would work better to hold the brittle stuff together.
BTW, regular JB Weld is not made for plastics. I've used it before I knew better, but there are better products, including JB Weld for plastic. Personally I'd think some sort of fiberglass would work better to hold the brittle stuff together.
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i may try fiberglass epoxy.
Put a test light between one side of gauge and 12v other to ground should read between 1/2 and 5/8 depending bulb resistance
The resistor should have a specific resistance between the two poles. Not open.
With an ohm meter right? I have extremely limited knowledge using multimeter, I have checked batteries for voltage and resistance on plug wires that's about it.
i'll do some google searching to better understand what you guys are writing about. Appreciate your help
Thanks
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i may try fiberglass epoxy.
Put a test light between one side of gauge and 12v other to ground should read between 1/2 and 5/8 depending bulb resistance
The resistor should have a specific resistance between the two poles. Not open.
With an ohm meter right? I have extremely limited knowledge using multimeter, I have checked batteries for voltage and resistance on plug wires that's about it.
i'll do some google searching to better understand what you guys are writing about. Appreciate your help
Thanks
What were you doing with the cluster when you had it out?
The fuel gauge that is acting up, is it part of the used cluster that you purchased or is it your original fuel gauge?
I once had that gauge resistor go bad (i think it cracked), it caused my fuel gauge the only go up like 25%, would never go past quarter mark. But it absolutely did not affect anything while driving. I think I have a spare if you want to try the resistor anyways
The fuel gauge that is acting up, is it part of the used cluster that you purchased or is it your original fuel gauge?
I once had that gauge resistor go bad (i think it cracked), it caused my fuel gauge the only go up like 25%, would never go past quarter mark. But it absolutely did not affect anything while driving. I think I have a spare if you want to try the resistor anyways
It is the one that was in the K5 when I purchased it, I was doing a clean up overhaul lens change bulbs etc... The one in the vehicle now is the one that was in the vehicle when I bought it last year. The one in the photo is one I purchased for parts, I was going to check it before pulling the panel out again
I was thinking my float was the issue because the needle goes up when going up hill also during acceleration, then drops when letting off gas
The resistors are calibrated. You need to match the color to match resistance. Thus far I haven't seen different colors with the same resistance value.
Yes, you'll need to look at resistance. It shouldn't be infinite (there is a break between the connection on either end if so).
If you have two resistors, and different colors, if they are both good, you should see a difference in the resistance. Usually (every time?) you will see a crayon marking on the housing (silver piece) that I believe somehow correlates to which resistor was to be used.
Yes, you'll need to look at resistance. It shouldn't be infinite (there is a break between the connection on either end if so).
If you have two resistors, and different colors, if they are both good, you should see a difference in the resistance. Usually (every time?) you will see a crayon marking on the housing (silver piece) that I believe somehow correlates to which resistor was to be used.
Thanks working tomorrow will check Wednesday my day off
If you still have your cluster bare like that, it's super easy to swap out the fuel gauge for testing. You have to remove the clear plastic as well as the black frame, then one or two screws for the fuel gauge itself and it pulls straight out. You do not have to pull out the entire cluster again.
Rather than swapping resistors, I would just plug in the other gauge and see if it does the same behavior. also wondering if maybe theres a loose connection somewhere, since you had the cluster out....
Rather than swapping resistors, I would just plug in the other gauge and see if it does the same behavior. also wondering if maybe theres a loose connection somewhere, since you had the cluster out....
I Didn't think of that, I will definitely do that instead of pulling out that cluster again.
Thanks
good luck, let us know what happens.
will do
Thanks again for the tip taking the plate off the front made it much easier. I tried changing the fuel gauge on the right with the one from the left in this photo it did the exact same thing on acceleration or when the trucks uphill the gauge goes towards full. The gauge with the pink resistor? Reads slightly lower eighth of a tank less but moves the same amount on acceleration and uphill.
One of my old C10’s always said 1/4 tank when full and empty was empty... I never fixed it, Just keep track.
The gauge doesn't bounce over speed bumps and what not? The "dampening" of the float movement is supposed to be done through the gauge, but changing gauge reading going up or down hill is normal. It just shouldn't happen immediately. Usually if that is the case, any movement of the truck and the gauge will act crazy.
bad resistor on the back of the gauge. 100%
yeah man for changing bulbs, it's easier this way vs. removing the whole cluster. Also, you can easily check that all the bulbs work, or LED chips in your case
If both gauges behave the same, then your problem is not in the gauge, it is between the back of the cluster and the fuel tank. My guess is going to be the green PCB on the back of the cluster or something with the wiring, something is just barely touching where it's not supposed to or vice versa
