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Insulation above headliner?

K588

K588

1/2 ton status
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Has anyone put anything above a headliner? For sound deadening and insulation. I was looking at those dynamat type products you cut and stick or other suggestions.

Po removed the headliner in a suburban, I got a new one and figured before I put it in, now was the time to do something if it's a good idea.
 
I put 2 different types of Dynamat in my '90 Jimmy when I repaired my headliner. But I don't know if I could tell much of a difference because of the relatively small section that is metal vs the fiberglass top. I could tell a difference when tapping on the metal, but it is obviously covered by headliner, so it's difficult to tap on it anyway.
I put Dynamat in the firewall, floor and back panel of my '70 K10 and was pleased with the results. So I honestly would recommend some insulation, and you may see a definite difference with the completely steel body of a suburban. But it will get expensive.
 
I got some noico stuff from amazon that is way cheaper than dynomat. Using it to do the doors and floors of my mega cab with the new stereo but if it works half way decent I’m gonna use some on my Chevy too.

Can’t say as to overall difference as it’s too cold to put it on, but it is def heavy and has gotten solid reviews.
 
My brother used some of that aluminum bubble wrap insulation as a headliner in his Studebaker until he was able to get an interior make-over done on it..it actually looked pretty good,and did seem to cut down the noise and insulate good..
 
Smokinthehippies said:
I got some noico stuff from amazon that is way cheaper than dynomat. Using it to do the doors and floors of my mega cab with the new stereo but if it works half way decent I’m gonna use some on my Chevy too.

Can’t say as to overall difference as it’s too cold to put it on, but it is def heavy and has gotten solid reviews.
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I do understand the perspective on Dynamat being expensive, but sometimes it may be worth it. A direct comparison would be too much work and money for me to try. What I will suggest though, is to make sure that you find something that is asphalt based or whatever Dynamat is, and has great reviews as far as the adhesive. You don't want it falling down after a few years. Being inverted seems like it would be the most challenging for the adhesive to me. And buying enough for a suburban is something that you want to last.
 
I agree with that. Mine are going on doors and floors so I’m not as worried about adhesivebut as heavy as this stuff I wouldn’t want it Fallin down.
 
K588 said:
This suburban is all black to, which started my thought process.
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I can tell you that when I painted the fiberglass top on my '90 to silver from black, I lower the temperature about 25* on a sunny late summer day. I believe that it was 83* outside when I checked the difference between a still black top and my freshly painted silver one. The temp gun doesn't read the same on different colors, so I checked the inside.
Apparently guys in southern areas have found out the similar results.
 
I put some on the inside of my doors and on the back wall of the cab of mine. Just that made a huge difference. I just used some generic stuff I picked up from either Home Depot or Lowes. It's only 1/4" or so thick. But it was fairly cheap and one roll went pretty far. A second roll would probably finish off the whole cab.
 
I started to use the half sheet of blue foam insulation I had left over from a home project. It was real bad in my old burb, no headliner at all. It fried my my noggin in the summer. Dark blue.
 
I have always had good luck with a product we use at work called Grace Perma barrier. I think its 44 mills so it is really easy to use and cost is like 200 bucks for 3 foot by 75 foot roll. I put 3 layers on large areas and 2 on others it does not insulate but I think insulation from blankets which could be found at a craft store would fit the bill. I think any peel and stick waterproofing would work fine.
 
I used Dynamat on the roof of my crewcab. It had no headliner and it still doesn't. I had rattles in the room which was why I installed the Dynamat. It got rid of those. I started covering the Dynamat with freebie stickers I get with various purchases. I would say I have about 2/3 covered. None of the Dynamat is falling, but some of the stickers are.
 
6872xtc said:
I can tell you that when I painted the fiberglass top on my '90 to silver from black, I lower the temperature about 25* on a sunny late summer day. I believe that it was 83* outside when I checked the difference between a still black top and my freshly painted silver one. The temp gun doesn't read the same on different colors, so I checked the inside.
Apparently guys in southern areas have found out the similar results.
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Pictures? I’d like to see the silver camper shell
 
My son's girlfriend rode in the back seat for 2 days at BB19 and was fine. We saw temperatures in the upper nineties in the afternoon, and usually had the windows down with the A/C going. I feel that is livable and it was worth my time.

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6872xtc said:
Apparently that product doesn't have much for thermal insulation, at least they don't say much about it. That would be a concern for a dark colored truck. My '90 is black on the steel cab, it gets really hot in the sun!
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It actually says it converts sound into heat.
 
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