Intake leak found on burb need opinions

[JUNIOR-K5]

Have another problem on my burb I was replacing my temp switch and noticed a leak after further inspection noticed a hair line crack on intake under temp switch pics are at bottom. What do you guys recommend is there a way to seal it or should I just go to pick part and get another intake and just replace it.thanks guys

 

[chevydan3]

Get the felpro intake gasket set. This is a VERY common issue on the vortec trucks. Take a day and tear it down, clean it up and replace the gaskets.

 

[chevydan3]

Nevermind, I read intake leak. Missed the part about the crack.

 

[JUNIOR-K5]

Yeah you can see the hair line crack to the right of the temp switch has tear drop leak.

 

[Deuling]

1. Live with it if its not bad.

2. Get a new intake or have have that one welded up.

 

[JUNIOR-K5]

Just gonna go to pick part this weekend and get an intake and just change was just being lazy but have to do it right. Now the question is does the distributor go in the same as the non vortec engines ive never taken off a dizzy off a vortec and was wondering if its the same. Ive heard that its a different way they drop in.

 

[chevydan3]

You are supposed to use a tech2 scanner to reset the timing when you restab the dizzy. I marked mine really good and was able to get it back in the same and haven't had issues or cel. Been running it for 2 years since then. Maybe I just got lucky but the other forums all said that you need the scanner.

 

[JUNIOR-K5]

Yeah thats also what I heard Im just afraid of it not falling right back into place Ive taken lots off older gm's 95 and down with no problems.

 

[rebelgregory]

Warm engine up and then cut it off and drain the coolant from radiator about halfway or so. This will bring the coolant level below the level of the crack. Then give it time to evaporate (hot engine, or a butane torch if you can get in there).

If you have a dremel, groove the crack a little like you were going to weld it back up. Then PUSH JB Weld into the crack. It should hold as long as the crack is dry. It's not the right way, but it's easy, and if it doesn't work, you're not really out much time or money.

 

[JUNIOR-K5]

Thats true thought of jbweld also its worth a shot.

 

[Fordum]

You might try some Bar's Leaks original. Nothing else.

I'm sure some folks here will have had problems with it, but I have used it with about a 90% success rate for over 30 years.
Not only have I had good luck with it, its the only one that I have not had stop up something if you used it according to the instructions.

Most of the others you will wind up having to flush out your heater core or something.

Of course, if you dump in way more than you should, then all bets are off.

I admit that its some of the worst looking stuff I have ever put in my car, and that includes a couple of girlfriends, but it works.

And if you combine it with the JB idea, your odds improve.

 

[JUNIOR-K5]

Bars leak Liquid Copper™ Block Seal Intake & Radiator Stop Leak
Found this one gonna give a shot

 

[Fordum]

This is the only one I have ever used.

http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/32-pelletized-heavy-duty-stop-leak-plt11

It used to be the only one they made. Now they have come out with some that try to compete with the other companies.
The one you found has sodium silicate in it. That is the same stuff used in those exhaust repair kits.
As long as its mixed with water, its soft and liquid. But, once it dries and then is heated, it hardens and will not dissolve again.

The idea is that it seeps out of a leak and hardens into a plug. The original stuff never hardened.
It just plugged the leak mechanically by filling it up with sticky stuff. Since it never hardened, it would wash out if you flushed your system and you would have to put more back in.
I always liked that idea better than stuff that might harden someplace you did not want it to and could not be flushed out later.......