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Integrating an exo cage into the body

DPI

DPI

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Has anyone integrated a exo cage into the body? I am considering either cutting the body and welding in tube, or splitting tube in half and welding that to the body.

I am considering doing this to the corner of the outher bed rails and to the body line. This would be mainly to keep the body from wrinkling up more than it has already from rubbing trees.

Any do anything like this? I think I can do this and keep the body looking close to factory. I don't want to narrow the front or rear at this point...
 
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DPI said:
Has anyone integrated a exo cage into the body? I am considering either cutting the body and welding in tube, or splitting tube in half and welding that to the body.

I am considering doing this to the corner of the outher bed rails and to the body line. This would be mainly to keep the body from wrinkling up more than it has already from rubbing trees.

Any do anything like this? I think I can do this and keep the body looking close to factory. I don't want to narrow the front or rear at this point...
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I hope you have a plas cutter for splitting tubing! That sounds like alot of work.
 
There's a local guy that has a Tracker (I think) where the front fenders were removed and tubes resembling their lines were put in their place. Not exactly what you're looking for but something a little out of the ordinary.

I'll try to dig up some pictures later today if you're interested.
 
mikey_d05 said:
There's a local guy that has a Tracker (I think) where the front fenders were removed and tubes resembling their lines were put in their place. Not exactly what you're looking for but something a little out of the ordinary.

I'll try to dig up some pictures later today if you're interested.
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Yeah, sounds like tube fenders or similar. I want to keep as much sheet metal as possible, though it is slowly disappearing. .
 
DPI said:
Yeah, I have a plasma or can use the band saw. Either cutting the body or splitting the tube will be a lot of work, but I think the finished product will be unique and kinda cool.
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Definitely unique, definitely cool if ya can pull it off. Your fab skills, I'd say go for it!
 
I've wanted to use DOM to provide a finished edge for cut fenders. My idea is to cut the front and rear fenders all the way around the entire opening. Then bend up some tube to match the bends and weld to the cut edges so the edge of the fender hits the middle of the tube. I'd tie the ends into the sliders.

I'd do it if I had a tubing bender. :crazy:
 
mrk5 said:
I've wanted to use DOM to provide a finished edge for cut fenders. My idea is to cut the front and rear fenders all the way around the entire opening. Then bend up some tube to match the bends and weld to the cut edges so the edge of the fender hits the middle of the tube. I'd tie the ends into the sliders.

I'd do it if I had a tubing bender. :crazy:
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That would be functional too. The problem with building an integrated exo skeleton would be finding where to run the tube because your body will be close if not against the obstacle, but you don't know for sure where the obstacle will hit. A true exo-cage would keep the body away from the obstacle more. I seem to touch trees along the body line more than anywhere. Except for last weekend when I was way off camber coming down a loose trail and lightly tapped a tree on top of my bed rail - go figure. I never thought I would hit something there.
 
It's been my experience, obstacles will get ahold of your body no matter what you do! Exocage can prolong the body life but in the end....
 
I would think you would have a stronger end result with full tubing & fitting the sheetmetal into that. Splitting the tubing would be a lot more work & the end result is still only re-inforced fenders.

I vote for an intergated exo cage.
 
I have seen if you can strategically place the tubing and use it in addition with the tires sticking out, rock sliders and bumpers, you can keep most of the body off of the obstacles, on a small vehicle anyway. This Samuri has been in about every situation imaginable. And is still fairly straight. He has been on its side and has driven out of it several times. I know its small and a lot lighter than a K5 though... He also used cromo.

I want to keep the sheet metal as long as possible while still having fun following the rice burners...
 
boz42 said:
I would think you would have a stronger end result with full tubing & fitting the sheetmetal into that. Splitting the tubing would be a lot more work & the end result is still only re-inforced fenders.

I vote for an intergated exo cage.
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I am leaning that way and I think you're right. You loose most of the structural integrity with the tubing split.
 
Meh, I think that's more of a size issue than a protection issue. My Blazer was trashed in 6 runs. My Toyota has been on three and only has a few minor dents.
 
I have split tube on a band saw several times before and it has a tendency to "curl" outward. I have never split tube 1 3/4 or 2 in so Im not sure if that size will or not. wall thickness is a factor in how much it curls too. You can straighten it but it wont be easy with a real long piece.
 
A buddy of mine welded several lengths of rect. tube directly to the sheetmetal on his doors and it has held up really well. He can lay his 7k truck up against a tree and it will flex the entire door frame in, but it hasn't dented the sheetmetal....rest of the body is pretty well mutilated, with the bed being at least 4" narrower on each side then original from basically being one big dent all the way back.
 
6.2Blazer said:
A buddy of mine welded several lengths of rect. tube directly to the sheetmetal on his doors and it has held up really well. He can lay his 7k truck up against a tree and it will flex the entire door frame in, but it hasn't dented the sheetmetal....rest of the body is pretty well mutilated, with the bed being at least 4" narrower on each side then original from basically being one big dent all the way back.
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So he welded several rows of tubing on the door? Basically covering the door?
 
rdn2blazer said:
I have split tube on a band saw several times before and it has a tendency to "curl" outward. I have never split tube 1 3/4 or 2 in so Im not sure if that size will or not. wall thickness is a factor in how much it curls too. You can straighten it but it wont be easy with a real long piece.
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I split one side of a piece of 2" hrew .180 wall last night with the plasma. When I hit the end of the 12" section, it popped apart and there was about an 3/16" gap. I can see how it would tend to curl.
 
6.2Blazer said:
A buddy of mine welded several lengths of rect. tube directly to the sheetmetal on his doors and it has held up really well. He can lay his 7k truck up against a tree and it will flex the entire door frame in, but it hasn't dented the sheetmetal....rest of the body is pretty well mutilated, with the bed being at least 4" narrower on each side then original from basically being one big dent all the way back.
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I remember seeing this, 78-79 ford pickup right? I think there may be pictures in the gallery here. But anyways I would like to see what you come up with, DPI. I forsee an exo cage in my future. No one wheels a fullsize around here, so I'm always with heeps. Plus most of the trails are designed for heeps :doah:
 
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