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Interesting Cage design...

Jeff427

Jeff427

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Gladwin, MI
This interesting exo-cage design was built in the early 80's by my uncle, and was actually designed by my Dad;
768LBuggy4.JPG

768LBuggy3.JPG

768LBuggy5.JPG

These pictures are taken from a video that was shot in 1990 (which is why they are so grainy).
I am thinking of taking some of the basics of this cage design, and using them on my project, pictured here;
PartsScout.jpg

I plan on ditching the body for the most part (I might make it so I can hang the skins on the tubing).
I am interested in getting a discussion going on ways to improve this basic cage design on my project, so it is similar in appearance, but more sound in structure. I know that triangulation is key, so it seems to me that only a few places would need to be addressed (with some straight tubing) to strengthen the design substantially.
 
Pretty much just for the fenders or just because no one had done it?

First time I've seen one. By the way, niiiiiiice.

I'm done now I'll try to limit my replies from now on to a technical nature.

Good luck to y'all in the future.

Allan
 
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Is there a reason for the cage being so tall?

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I think it was for head clearance (so it isn't easy to smack your head on the cage).
 
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Pretty much just for the fenders or just because no one had done it?

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I am not sure what my uncles motivation was, but I was very disappointed when he sold it. It is definitely unique.
 
Here is basicly what I was thinking. The V bar would be doing most of the side to side re-enforcing, so would an X be better there? Rear access will not be and issue as this will be a 2 seat buggy.
768TubeScout.jpg
 
Just for refrence, the red is the right side, orange is the left side, and all the yellow indicates the tubes connecting the two sides together. No one has anything to input on the design /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
I've got some concerns about the platform, but the cage design looks ok for it's intended purpose. A diagonal or "x" brace on the top would be a good addition, but probably not "mandatory", especially for primarily dirt/mud. And the front section would push over relatively easy if hit from the side. Might want to think about things like that if you expecting it to come out of multiple rolls with little distortion, but it's probably just fine as it is if you're mostly interested in safety. Not too fond of the aesthetics, but on the design it self, not much to add...
 
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I've got some concerns about the platform, but the cage design looks ok for it's intended purpose. A diagonal or "x" brace on the top would be a good addition, but probably not "mandatory", especially for primarily dirt/mud. And the front section would push over relatively easy if hit from the side. Might want to think about things like that if you expecting it to come out of multiple rolls with little distortion, but it's probably just fine as it is if you're mostly interested in safety. Not too fond of the aesthetics, but on the design it self, not much to add...

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What do you mean by "concerns about the platform"? Is that in reference to the cage design, or to the fact that the vehicle is a Scout? Interesting fact about Scouts, the frames from front to back and the cross members are boxed from the factory, so they have a good solid foundation to build a cage from.
 
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So why the front diagonal from the top of the windshield to the front hood area?

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Primarily to capture the look of the design that my uncle built. It also kind of reminds me of the junk from the "Mad Max" movies, that I always thought was kind of cool looking. I am not dead set on it though, as I know it will reduce visability to a degree. I am just tossing around ideas before I start bending tube. I know it is kind of weird that I am looking for input on a Scout project on a Chevrolet site, but cage design is not really a brand specific discussion for the most part.
 
No, I'm not a brand bigot at all, though I do prefer GMs with lots of reasons to back it up. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Actually, I was talking about the drive train being a bit on the shy side. But of course that depends on what your doing with it and where your going.

Anyway, that's why I have not replied earlier. I really don't have anything constructive to add... I'll be watching the progress.
 
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Actually, I was talking about the drive train being a bit on the shy side. But of course that depends on what your doing with it and where your going.

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Well, in here in MI, the laws about trail running are pretty much summed up in the saying "If the governor's car can make it, then it is a legal trail." So, essentially, if you have to pull the lever to engage the front axle, you are wheeling illegally here. There are no rocks to speak of in MI, only trees and mud for the most part, so I am not too worried about the light duty components (which the only thing that is really all that light duty is the Dana 27 axles, and the 152 ci 4 cylinder), but hey, it is all an experiment anyway, so whatever turns out to be too weak will be replaced. I just want to see if I can make use of this huge collection of wuss parts that I have, rather than just scrapping it all. All I have to lose is some time, and a little bit of money, as I don't have much cash invested in all this junk.
 
Go for an ultralight narrow buggy, how wide are the framerails? Or rather how far apart?

If you don't mind a bit of extra wiring for ignition, gauges, and lights, that would be cool!
 
Yeah, that's kinda what I figured when I added "But of course that depends on what your doing with it and where your going." I would probably do the same thing (using what you got) but make it more of a little 2 seat BIG gocart (think Odysey on steroids) kinda buggy.
 
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but make it more of a little 2 seat BIG gocart (think Odysey on steroids) kinda buggy.

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Well, that is actually, exactly what my goal is. How would you do it differently with that goal in mind? Would you go with a more "Odyssey like" design to the cage? I am totally open to suggestions, as I have not started anything other than removing some of the current body panels /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif, and getting some tubing.
 
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Go for an ultralight narrow buggy, how wide are the framerails? Or rather how far apart?

If you don't mind a bit of extra wiring for ignition, gauges, and lights, that would be cool!

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RJ, the frame is 35" wide, and is the same width down its entire length. The Scout itself is already over a foot narrower than my K5 as far as overall width. Light weight has been my plan all along /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif.
 
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