Interior carpet alternatives?

[bassackwards]

Working a little on my '89 today. The PO pulled out all the carpet and left the insulation/plastic/tar whatever stuff that was under it.

My plan is to cut the top off in 73-75 style and add a canvas top.

I am concerned that this mat will get wet. Rhino lining sounds good in some ways but what about noise?

So far I have not seen any rust in the floors and don't want to encourage any either, what have y'all put on the floors?

 

[HankScorpio]

I have the rubber floor from LMC in my crewcab. Love the material but the fitment was awful. Paid a lot for a poor fitting product. 5 stars for material, 0 stars for fit. I have 2 layers of Grace Ice and Water shield underneath. Together they provide enough sound dampening to make me happy without using any carpet pad. Leaky door seals are where my road noise is mostly coming from, not from the floor. Next time I will use the same underlayment but will try some black rubber floor runner from Home Depot or Lowes. It comes in 3-4 ft width as long as you want. Overlap it in the center and done. I had to use a heat gun to get the supposed direct fit floor to lay down right so using it to get floor runner to lay down right is fine with me and will be much cheaper.

 

[6872xtc]

I am in the process of installing a vinyl floor from ACC. I got it through rockauto.
It was only $235, but I believe that I am set for a round with the heat gun as well.
My '90 has the rubber tape pads in it as well. Trying to pull up portions that were loose and bubbling, was not productive.

Spray-in bedliner should seal it up very well, but I don't know how thick it would need to be for noise and heat reduction.

 

[bassackwards]

Has anyone had real experience with microbeads in paint?

 

[RootBreaker]

I used the rustoleum bed liner and yes it does not deaden sound as my 40" ground hawgs are LOUD...

from

too

imma bit rough on the interior

would love to find something to put over this to make interior quieter

 

[campfire]

Next time I will use the same underlayment but will try some black rubber floor runner from Home Depot or Lowes. It comes in 3-4 ft width as long as you want. Overlap it in the center and done.

That's what I used. I first put down foil-backed foam insulation:

And then I used rolled rubber for the flooring. It didn't fit the contours quite right, but I think that's mostly user error. My cuts weren't quite right, nor did I try using heat to stretch it around the hump.

Total cost was around $100 for both layers, filling the cab floor section of my Blazer (but not the cargo area).

Noise reduction was worth it, regardless of how well it fits.

 

[campfire]

The foam insulation is impervious to water and has made a difference in how much I enjoy driving the truck. If I were to redo it I would start on the driver side instead of the passenger side. The fitment quality dropped as I went along.

 

[bassackwards]

I can't see your pics campfire

 

[RootBreaker]

@RootBreaker, I added another picture above.

The foam insulation is impervious to water and has made a difference in how much I enjoy driving the truck.

I know a guy that used something from home depot. Ill ask him as it was cheap and he said his iroks are not as loud now and he enjoys it.

I figured my first coat of the black, then contemplated doing the interior foam then something like what you did so it was rugged and sound proof.

I'm not done yet...

his truck ...

 

[campfire]

I know a guy that used something from home depot. Ill ask him as it was cheap and he said his iroks are not as loud now and he enjoys it.

I figured my first coat of the black, then contemplated doing the interior foam then something like what you did so it was rugged and sound proof.

I don't have Home Depot locally. I mail-ordered from Walmart. Free shipping comes in handy with heavy things, eh?

A standard pickup cab would use half as much material as I used. No need to cover between or behind the seats, since nobody sits back there.

 

[diesel4me]

Walmart sells a closed cell foam in a roll that is used for an exercise mat in the sporting goods section,that will not soak up water,and is about 1/2" thick...

I use them to lay on under a vehicle on cement or asphalt when a creeper isn't able to be used ...

You could glue that down to the floor and it would absorb a lot of road noise and insulate the floor and help keep heat from the transmission and engine migrating into the floor..

Harbor Freight also sells rubber matting cut into puzzle shapes for concrete floors in workshops that might work well too..

Also home centers sell a silver foil bubble wrap roll insulation that would work too,but the air bubbles might pop under foot pressure on the floor...seen guys use that for a headliner in rat rods and antique vehicles before..
Be aware all these things might burn if they got hot enough...

 

[bassackwards]

This stuff may work well and is not too expensive

http://www.carinsulation.com/

 

[RootBreaker]

This stuff may work well and is not too expensive

http://www.carinsulation.com/

I maybe looking into this...

 

[jekquistk5]

That's what I used. I first put down foil-backed foam insulation:

And then I used rolled rubber for the flooring. It didn't fit the contours quite right, but I think that's mostly user error. My cuts weren't quite right, nor did I try using heat to stretch it around the hump.

Total cost was around $100 for both layers, filling the cab floor section of my Blazer (but not the cargo area).

Noise reduction was worth it, regardless of how well it fits.

The foam insulation is impervious to water and has made a difference in how much I enjoy driving the truck. If I were to redo it I would start on the driver side instead of the passenger side. The fitment quality dropped as I went along.

That is really awesome. I may steal that Idea for my blazer. I'm sure the wife wants nicer floors.

 

[K85 Octane]

3m dirtstop commercial floor mats
really flexible so it contours easy, deadens sound, soft like carpet, but all rubber made
Just have to cut to size and do some extra work. I've got it in my '68, works well enough and handles everything

 

[HankScorpio]

3m dirtstop commercial floor mats
really flexible so it contours easy, deadens sound, soft like carpet, but all rubber made
Just have to cut to size and do some extra work. I've got it in my '68, works well enough and handles everything

I picked up some similar used ones from our local linen supply. Cut to fit as overlays when my wife bought a Grand Cherokee like 15 years ago. Very durable and the stock carpet underneath still looks new. Good stuff.

 

[campfire]

That is really awesome. I may steal that Idea for my blazer. I'm sure the wife wants nicer floors.

Try starting in the center and work the imperfections toward the edges. Going from right-->left makes the passenger side look good but there's less flexibility once you get to the driver side.

 

[GoGoGirl]

This thread is relevant to me right now. But I think I’m pretty much done with my little project. I should throw some photos up, maybe tomorrow.

Here’s my low buck adventure:

I wanted to ditch the sponge-like characteristics of the stock carpet and jute liner. I pulled them out. I was greeted by a floor that didn’t need too much repair, thankfully.

First I addressed the rust holes. A few holes here and there. A sheet of 20 gauge steel and some 3/16” steel rivets, and those were dealt with. I lack welding skills and don’t like to ask people for help as you probably know, so that was my solution. Materials cost about $20 right there. Took some super fancy rubberized coating spray— the most expensive part of this so far— and covered the steel patches top and bottom. Sealed all the edges with polyurethane caulk. Day one.

Wow I’ve had a few drinks and I can feel it when I’m typing this! Bear with me!

Next up was removing surface rust. Sanded those spots with 80, 180, then 220 grit by hand. Covered with Rustoleum Rust Reformer, two coats. That was day two. Total spent so far about $45 including sandpaper since I didn’t have enough on hand.

I then laid down two coats of the super fancy rubberized stuff. Took a day to let each layer dry. Topped that with two coats of Rustoleum bed liner. I tried to cheat by using spray cans but found they had to be shaken almost constantly. Pain in the ass. Switched to brush-on formula. Waited two days for the first coat to dry. Then three days on the second coat. Total cost now about $65.

Today I should be done with the floor. I expected to be. I hadn’t driven my Blazer in two weeks because I was working on the floor. The darn bed liner stinks like crazy and has already chipped in a couple small spots. I didn’t put any cargo back onto it and I stepped into the truck carefully. Now I’m wondering if I went too cheaply on this project by using that bed liner, or should I maybe make the final outer layer be the fancy rubberized stuff? The guy who recommended it to me says he’s left tractor floors coated with it and it’s held up for years. But silly me read online and saw many people putting the bed liner on top of rubberized stuff for floors, so I thought it was a good idea.

Thoughts?

 

[campfire]

This thread is relevant to me right now. But I think I’m pretty much done with my little project. I should throw some photos up, maybe tomorrow.

Here’s my low buck adventure:

I wanted to ditch the sponge-like characteristics of the stock carpet and jute liner. I pulled them out. I was greeted by a floor that didn’t need too much repair, thankfully.

First I addressed the rust holes. A few holes here and there. A sheet of 20 gauge steel and some 3/16” steel rivets, and those were dealt with. I lack welding skills and don’t like to ask people for help as you probably know, so that was my solution. Materials cost about $20 right there. Took some super fancy rubberized coating spray— the most expensive part of this so far— and covered the steel patches top and bottom. Sealed all the edges with polyurethane caulk. Day one.

Wow I’ve had a few drinks and I can feel it when I’m typing this! Bear with me!

Next up was removing surface rust. Sanded those spots with 80, 180, then 220 grit by hand. Covered with Rustoleum Rust Reformer, two coats. That was day two. Total spent so far about $45 including sandpaper since I didn’t have enough on hand.

I then laid down two coats of the super fancy rubberized stuff. Took a day to let each layer dry. Topped that with two coats of Rustoleum bed liner. I tried to cheat by using spray cans but found they had to be shaken almost constantly. Pain in the ass. Switched to brush-on formula. Waited two days for the first coat to dry. Then three days on the second coat. Total cost now about $65.

Today I should be done with the floor. I expected to be. I hadn’t driven my Blazer in two weeks because I was working on the floor. The darn bed liner stinks like crazy and has already chipped in a couple small spots. I didn’t put any cargo back onto it and I stepped into the truck carefully. Now I’m wondering if I went too cheaply on this project by using that bed liner, or should I maybe make the final outer layer be the fancy rubberized stuff? The guy who recommended it to me says he’s left tractor floors coated with it and it’s held up for years. But silly me read online and saw many people putting the bed liner on top of rubberized stuff for floors, so I thought it was a good idea.

Thoughts?

My thoughts? I didn't think CUCVs came with jute liner or carpet. I've found conflicting reports on whether they even came with vinyl flooring. Yours is an oddball if it had civilian flooring.

Otherwise, I'm happy with my 1/8" thick rubber mat. It doesn't scuff or peel apart when I step on it. I suppose it will tear someday, but it seems durable so far.

This is the exact stuff I ordered:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rubber-Cal-Diamond-Grip-Resilient-Mat-Garage-Flooring/167175246

The insulation listing isn't online anymore, but this looks like the same stuff:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/108-x39-Ca...r-Material-insulation-Block-6mm-/123280463072

At today's price it would cost $64 (shipped) for the flooring and $55 for the sound mat. I had extra sound mat but very little rubber to spare. Measure carefully.

My goal was sound insulation, so I don't see the point in spraying a liner down. With no thickness comes no insulation. I'm ok with sponge-like flooring. It's worth it to get the noise level down a bit.

 

[diesel4me]

I've been pop riveting any patches on my truck more and more,rather than weld or braze them,and I have the ability to do welding--but feel its not worth the expense and effort any more,to put a patch on an otherwise junk fender...
In fact I didn't even want to "waste" any bondo on the patch to cover any sharp edges and the rivets,but the inspection sticker requires no sharp edges,so I reluctantly mixed some up and slopped on on,and didn't bother to sand it either...
I'd rather spend the money on a new fender than bondo...it's lucky I sprayed red paint on it too,not just primer!..I've given up on having a good looking rust free truck,I just want it driveable and "safe"..

Welding might be the "right" way to fix rotted panels,but I'm tired of wasting money on mig wire or brazing rods,spend hours hunched over welding,and risk setting the truck on fire welding or brazing patches on,rivets or self drilling screws are just as good for my purposes and go on much quicker too..

I have yet to use bedliner,but if I do I'd go for Herculiner brush on stuff,I've seen an S-10 my friends dad did the bed with that stuff and it hardens up firm,but doesn't chip or feel like cement ,it has some rubbery texture to it..has stayed stuck on over 2 years with no peeling too..