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Interior Mods

shepdog

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TRACY,CALIFORNIA
I'm interested in updating my back cargo area panels and the dash gauges. Anybody got any nice pics of what they did. How about some great center consoles too. I was thinking of maybe doing some diamond plate in the cargo panel area.
 
Well, I haven't done my side rear panels yet, but here's my dash and console... might give ya an idea or 2....






13480dash_install.jpg


13480dash_install21.jpg


13480console21.jpg
 
RYOKEN, was it worth putting all the time and money into it? I am not saying it looks bad. I want mine to look like that. I have one that needs alot of work, but I am not sure If it is worth it. Maybe I just need some momentum to push me to do it. but I dont know
 
Well, I ended up with about 40 hrs into it... Done over the winter in the house at my leisure.. Most of the gauges I had laying around for years, so my cash outlay was not alot... The tach and speedo are what get spendy... Todays prices, over 1/2 the cost are those 2.. Think the gauges I run would run about $550 these days...

End result? Well worth it... Not only is it a sweet setup as the driver, everyone who checks it out is pretty blown away... It's so nice having all the proper info, at the right angle, at a glance, as opposed to the stock setup or the aftermarket flatpanel ones (that they charge a fortune for), angled down ones..

If I did it again, I could certainly cut down on the labor, there was a fair amount of trial and error... And definitely some fancy glass fabwork, but I'm certain it could be done in metal too... Tigged aluminum would be sweet...

If anyone undertakes something similar, I can help out with stuff I ran across..
 
I used some alumabrite diamond plate for rear panels. Came out pretty nice.

IMG_6284.JPG


IMG_6285.JPG
 
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The pictures were great. Nice job! Do you think Dynamat would stick to the lined floor? I really like the back panels and the power inverter. I think I'm definetly going to put an inverter in mine too.
 
here is mine, not as fancy as ryoken, but ive since added 2 more guages, trans temp, and vacuum.




795001_105_full.jpg


and another, any one have a center cap for the steering wheel?????
795001_108_full.jpg
 
How are you digging the vac gauge? Find it useful?

Eventually I'd like to get one out on the hood with my fuel pressure..
 
Just left it with the line-x exposed. It looks nice with the bright stainless steel screws I used to screw down the access cover.
 
ryoken said:
How are you digging the vac gauge? Find it useful?

Eventually I'd like to get one out on the hood with my fuel pressure..

i did the vac guage, lets me know how much gas im wasting. I eventually want to get fuel pressure and oil temp.
 
onetonbb74 said:
i did the vac guage, lets me know how much gas im wasting. I eventually want to get fuel pressure and oil temp.

fuel pressure out on the hood has been great.. you can always tell when your low on fuel, bang a hard turn and watch the psi plummett...:doah: :haha:

oil temp has been interesting to have, never had it before... idle temps vs hard load temps, etc...
 
They all look great. Hopefully mine will come out about the same. But I'm also dealing with a Turbo Diesel. Boost, EGT, oil pressure, oil temp, trans temp, water temp, fuel, fuel pressure, Odometer / Triptometer and ideally a Tach whose sweep is only 5 to 6 grand. I'm sure I'm missing one or two:doah:

Ryoken. Where did you put the radio and I'd definately be interested in your tips & info.

OneTonBB74. I think I have a center cap for you. It will need cleaning though. Possible trade?

To be totally goofy I'm looking into putting in a cross between a console & a vault:haha:I could move the radio there and install a Mac Mini as well. Think of it. Put my whole music collection on it, hook a handheld GPS (removeable for hikes & such) into the Mac where I have the programs installed, WiFi for internet access and a 7 to 10" touch screen. I could do some engine CPU stuff but I'm running Mechanical instead of electronics. A small keyboard & monitor space would be in the console/vault for when security might be an issue. I can work with power issues, heat, and vibration, some concern for dust but I'll need to really think about that inevitable time when somebody spills a liquid in the console:eek1::mad::eek1::mad::rolleyes:
 
OneTonBB74. I think I have a center cap for you. It will need cleaning though. Possible trade?


yeah, im down, whatcha need, ive parted a couple of trucks and still got some random chit.
 
BKinzey said:
Ryoken. Where did you put the radio and I'd definately be interested in your tips & info.

:

Well, my radio is over where one of the heat vents was ... Seen a few guys with cb's there.. It was that way when I bought the truck.. here's a shot from before the dash was done that shows where it is......

13480dash11.jpg


with moving the heat controls down where the radio was, I now have room for a couple more gauges down the road on that right side.. air/fuel for sure and maybe brake pressure..

13480dash_install21.jpg


I dig the stereo off to the right tho... gives equal access for my girl...

As far as tips go, I'll leave the tech of actual dash fab for now, unless someone is strongly considering the whole angled gig and what material they want to use... fiberglass I can walk you thru, but metal could work too..

I will say this.... Definitely don't bother trying to save the circuit board, etc.. It's best to just run new hardwired stuff direct to source with maybe a quick disconnect to unplug the dash assembly...
 
nice, before and after pics ryoken.
heres how mine is now with the new guages. While i was at it i converted my brake release lever into the ignition switch to eliminate the old 74 column key switch.
102_2620.JPG


and another


102_2619.JPG


and another
102_2618.JPG
 
So if you lose the circuit board then can you lose the plastic backing altogether? Say you use 1/8" sheet aluminum or 1/4" plastic/Lexan. Something sturdy enough the hold the guages. Do the 4 corner screws line up with the metal dash or with the plastic backing? I'd guess the speedometer might need a fabbed support since it has a cable connection.

The shift indicator could be a problem I suppose.

I did see installation pics where the guy cut PVC pipe to angle the guages. I can't remember if the trim ring was attached to the pipe or actually slid inside the PVC. The PVC was set in a pipe organ form. End result was cool though:bow:

OneTon, how about a day/night rear view mirror? Any gray interior trim parts? I really need the 2 short pieces that go from the A Pillar to the Kick Panel. This weekend I'll see what other small parts I need.
 
BKinzey said:
So if you lose the circuit board then can you lose the plastic backing altogether? Say you use 1/8" sheet aluminum or 1/4" plastic/Lexan. Something sturdy enough the hold the guages. Do the 4 corner screws line up with the metal dash or with the plastic backing? I'd guess the speedometer might need a fabbed support since it has a cable connection.

The shift indicator could be a problem I suppose.

I did see installation pics where the guy cut PVC pipe to angle the guages. I can't remember if the trim ring was attached to the pipe or actually slid inside the PVC. The PVC was set in a pipe organ form. End result was cool though:bow:

OneTon, how about a day/night rear view mirror? Any gray interior trim parts? I really need the 2 short pieces that go from the A Pillar to the Kick Panel. This weekend I'll see what other small parts I need.

you do lose the backing and the 4 corner skrews need the backing so what i did is cut out the mounting holes only out of the backing piece(the whole plastic piece) and cut out the shift indicator with blinkers all in one piece. Found some bulbs that had pre wired ground straps on them and use those as the turn indicators then skrewed it to the back of the bezel in the stock location using plumbers tape, glue, and skrews. The speedometer needs a new cable that has a skrew on fitting instead of the slide on factory fitting. I have a mirror, but its not that great it has a water stain on it in the glass. all of my interior pieces are from a brown truck with tan interior, nothing grey. not quite sure what you mean by the 2 short pieces that go from the a pillar to the kick panel.
 
is there any way to buy a new odometer but to turn it to match the miles that are on the truck?
 

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