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Ironworker tips/tricks/accesories

FMJ

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I recently got a new Edwards 55ton ironworker, came with the nibbler installed as well. Just wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks or any setups you have on any ironworker to make things easier. Obviously it's already easy as hell but I really wouldn't mind fabbing a few parts to help me out right now :D. Probably tomarrow I'm going to start making a gauging table for the punch station.

I'm also curious of how often the shears normally last? Also if there are any big no no's that I wouldn't know about. They really don't but anything specific in the directions about what you should be careful about. Only thing that really comes to mind is not to sideload the coper/notcher. One thing I was really thinking about is if you can cut an area that has been welded/torched or cut with a plasma. Just wondering if the heat makes that area too hard for the machine?

Thanks for any help.
 
I recently got a new Edwards 55ton ironworker, came with the nibbler installed as well. Just wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks or any setups you have on any ironworker to make things easier. Obviously it's already easy as hell but I really wouldn't mind fabbing a few parts to help me out right now :D. Probably tomarrow I'm going to start making a gauging table for the punch station.

I'm also curious of how often the shears normally last? Also if there are any big no no's that I wouldn't know about. They really don't but anything specific in the directions about what you should be careful about. Only thing that really comes to mind is not to sideload the coper/notcher. One thing I was really thinking about is if you can cut an area that has been welded/torched or cut with a plasma. Just wondering if the heat makes that area too hard for the machine?

Thanks for any help.



You lucky sob! I have been wanting one for a long long time. Good for you for being able to afford such a price piece of equipment. Pics! I demand pics! :D. 55 ton is a nice big unit. I wish I could help but I have never used one before. Keeps your hands clear!!
 
One rule of thumb when punching holes. The hole you are punching cannot be smaller than the material thickness. Not usually an issue with thin material, but say you want a 3/8" hole in 1/2" material...use a drill. 1/2" hole in 3/8" material, go ahead and use the punch station.

Flame cut edges are harder, I would avoid shearing or punching through that.

Rene
 
One rule of thumb when punching holes. The hole you are punching cannot be smaller than the material thickness. Not usually an issue with thin material, but say you want a 3/8" hole in 1/2" material...use a drill. 1/2" hole in 3/8" material, go ahead and use the punch station.

Flame cut edges are harder, I would avoid shearing or punching through that.

Rene



What about plasma cut edges? not an issue?
 
Not as much of an issue as there is so much less heat affected area near the cut line. Flame cut leaves a lot of residual heat which can harden the material in that area. As a machinist you must deal with flame cut stuff, and the extra toll it takes on tooling to get through it?

Anyways, most plasma cut parts don't harden like that because the heat is a lot more focused, the cut is faster and the material left doesn't get a chance to really heat up. Most thin sheet you cut with a plasma can be handled without gloves almost immediately.

Rene
 
Not as much of an issue as there is so much less heat affected area near the cut line. Flame cut leaves a lot of residual heat which can harden the material in that area. As a machinist you must deal with flame cut stuff, and the extra toll it takes on tooling to get through it?

Anyways, most plasma cut parts don't harden like that because the heat is a lot more focused, the cut is faster and the material left doesn't get a chance to really heat up. Most thin sheet you cut with a plasma can be handled without gloves almost immediately.

Rene



Yeah, I have machined flame cut parts many times and yes it's a bitch and hard on tools. I figured as such with plasma, just was not sure. All I know is I want a plasma cutter BAD damnit.
 
holy sh*t, that thing'll shear a 14" piece of 3/8" !!!!! :eek1::bow::eek1::bow: way, way jeolous!!!

who cares if it weighs as much as a small car, I'd rock that in my dungeon!:saweet:
 
I snapped a few pictures today, I find myself wasting steel on the nibbler just having fun. Technically this thing is for making top plates for helical piers for building decks. But, after I make 300 of those for the year it's all truck stuff. I may have to buy another truck just so I can make more parts. As far as price goes I was getting quotes from people trying to sell me 1992 45ton machines for the price that I had this one shipped to my door new. And none of the used ones had a nibbler.

I got to thinking today and was wondering also if I should disregard the warning not to side load the punches. Being able to make perfect 1/2" slots might be worth a worn/broken die as long as it isn't wrecking anything but the die. I'm going to have to find someone who has done it before I make that decision though. Also thinking this thing could really use a plasma as a friend. Excavation companies have no use for Plasma's though so that's coming out of my pocket.

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I figured there had to be a commercial end of this deal...nobody that hasn't won a lottery gets themselves a $7500 iron worker to make the occassional part for their truck at home. Plus, so few of us have 3 phase power at our disposal. :D

Nice that you have a specific job for this machine that leaves you plenty of 'opportunity' to use it for your own evil puproses!

As an aside I spent 8 years trying to convince an employer we needed an Iron worker. Any Iron worker, in any condition. We were forever saw cutting flat bar, drilling clearance holes, etc etc. All non critical stuff that the iron worker could have done 10 times as fast with acceptable end product. Some people have no 'vision'. an iron worker would have re-paid it cost within 6 months, and left us so much more time to focus on the more finicky stuff.

Yes, I'm quite jealous too!! Good for you though, having a machine like that is a real treat!

Rene
 
Yeah we had a company making them for us and it started out at 20$ per, then they decided to screw us over and charge 67$ ( on an order of 48) for the same part. I still need to call them up and chew them out, treating a 30 year customer that way is beyond insane. But at any rate the part will cost us somewhere around 3-4$ with this iron worker. Pay itself off in no time, considering I could make 300 in a few days.

I've seen and worked with the type of employer you are talking about many times also. I was on a job once doing the heavy lifting on a steam pipe install for a hotel and the guy's working broke the stinger on the arc welder. Well they call up the boss and tell him they need a new 15$ part and they spent 2 hours looking for one in their shop instead of just buying one. Probably cost him 500 dollars for that stinger at that point paying me and the other guys to stand around. Luckily my dad is the opposite, if you needed it and didn't buy it you're in trouble, we don't waste time and it's a main reason for our success.

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I figured there had to be a commercial end of this deal...nobody that hasn't won a lottery gets themselves a $7500 iron worker to make the occassional part for their truck at home.



If I had it I would drop that kind of coin as fast as I could count it out just for truck parts :D
 
I looked into one didn't think they were all that bad price wise not that model but I have even seen them used
 
If you need to make slots, just get an oblong punch and die. Depending on the size of the punch and the material thickness, you can get away with side loading round punches to a certain extent.

I got to thinking today and was wondering also if I should disregard the warning not to side load the punches. Being able to make perfect 1/2" slots might be worth a worn/broken die as long as it isn't wrecking anything but the die..
 
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