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Is a 10blt enough?????

mollyman

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Okay I was going to "rebuild" the corp 10blt in the front of my 81 K10 sub but I got it out started cleaning it up and then I saw what all needed to be done (plus I got pissed off trying to get the rotors off) and I have decided to buy a new one. I was going to go through Boyce Equipment because I saw the review for their dana 60 on this website. Now my question is two parts. First I would like to just replace my 10blt with another one but I know everybody says to get the dana 60 but the 10blt is half the price. So I don't do rocks just mud and old logging roads and hunting trails, I am going to run 33s or 35s and keep the open diff (to help turning and I will get a detroit for the rear end). Will the 10blt be enough. Second does anybody have any ideas of other places to get a true "bolt" in front end other than Boyce (maybe on the east coast) or are they the best to go with????????????????????????:confused:
 
10-bolt should be fine for you. Don't get it from Boyce, though. You'll pay 2-3 times what it's worth.

What axle ratio are you running? I'm sure somebody on here has one that they will just about give to you! For a complete rotor-to-rotor 10-bolt, you shouldn't have to pay any more than $200.

Heck... I have two of them sitting in my back yard right now.
 
Yeah but I want new rotors, ball joints, bearings, and so forth. I don't want to have to do anything to it and Boyces are basicaly brand new and it will come with what ever gears I want (4.56)
 
It sounds like for want you plan on doing with the truck, a front 10-bolt would probably be fine.

Wow, $1,600 for a rebuilt 10-bolt front with 4.56 gears and open diff:eek1: :eek1: :eek1: . Man, I hope they at least include a tub of Vasoline with that..............

I parted out my old 10-bolt that had fairly new rotors, calipers, wheel bearings, axle u-joints, 4.10 gears, master install kit, limited slip diff, Warn hubs,and 8-lug hub/rotors and got maybe $400 out of it........and I thought that was pretty good.
 
well I'm new to this. So $1600 is to much for a rebuilt 10blt. Then anybody know any other places to get one cheaper????? I was also gonna get a 14blt for the rear at the same time.
 
mollyman said:
Yeah but I want new rotors, ball joints, bearings, and so forth. I don't want to have to do anything to it and Boyces are basicaly brand new and it will come with what ever gears I want (4.56)

If not building it yourself is really worth that much money, then that's your choice. $1600 is definitely an ass-raping for a 10-bolt.

Do you already have 4.56 gears? If you do, you can have yours professionally rebuilt for about half that price. More, if you need new gears.

Rotors, ball joints, bearings and u-joints shouldn't cost you more than $300 for top quality parts.
 
Since we are on 10 bolt fronts . I have a tip . To install the new seals , I found the hub socket , with a old spindle nut on it , and some duct tape to hold the nut on , is exactly the right size to drive the seals in carefully :thumb:

Just don't use the nut side to touch the seal . I should of made that clear , the nut side is to tap on , the tool side is to touch the seal :thumb:

Just got done going through mine , new gearing , seals , etc :D
 
pauly383 said:
Since we are on 10 bolt fronts . I have a tip . To install the new seals , I found the hub socket , with a old spindle nut on it , and some duct tape to hold the nut on , is exactly the right size to drive the seals in carefully :thumb:

Just got done going through mine , new gearing , seals , etc :D

I just got done rebuilding one, myself. I used a piece of PVC pipe to drive in the new axle shaft seals. :thumb: I'll have to try that spindle socket trick next time.
 
Just don't use the nut side to touch the seal . I should of made that clear , the nut side is to tap on , the tool side is to touch the seal :thumb:
 
when you say I can have mine pro rebuilt, what do you mean?? Nothing is realy broken on mine it's just that it is about 26 years old and needs rebuilt. I would want everything new (but the axle tube/shafts/knuckles) so where could I take it. Could I take the parts to them with the axle and just drop it off? My biggest problem is that I live in HILLBILLY land West Virginia. And would they clean the tube all up and everything????? Mine has auto hubs so I would want those swaped for manuel.
 
Heres an idea, take it apart yourself then take it to a carwash and degrease it yourself along with the axles and any other bigger parts that wont get lost, then buy the parts you want then take it to a pro and have him build it, if you disassemble and clean it yourself you should save some money.
 
The only thing that most people can't really do themselves is set up a new gearset. If you're not changing gears (and there's no reason to unless they're actually broken), then all the rest is just simple disassembly and reassembly.

Like scooter says, you can just take it to a coin-op car wash to clean it up (after you've taken it apart) and then paint it with POR-15 or Rust Bullet or something. I actually had my axle housing sand-blasted and powder-coated but it was pretty severly rusted. Even that only cost $192.

Ball joints: $100
U-Joints: $50
Bearigs and seals: $120
Doing the work yourself and becoming intimately familiar with the inner workings of your axle: Priceless :D

Barring that, you should have a shop around you somewhere that does axle work. At the very least, you'll need somebody else to install the new carrier side bearings and inner pinion bearing (unless you have a hydraulic press). But check them out before you change them. Front axle ring & pinion bearings don't get used very much in most vehicles, so they don't wear very much, either. You might be able to just get away with wheel bearings!

If you buy a factory service manual, it will detail how to disassemble, inspect and reassemble everything.
 
pauly383 said:
Just don't use the nut side to touch the seal . I should of made that clear , the nut side is to tap on , the tool side is to touch the seal :thumb:

Man that sounds so dirty :haha:
 
If I take it apart and start power washing it will it matter if I spray down inside the axle tube or will that cause rust on the inside of it??
 
for the inner tubes try useing numerous proctetants, hell a swab big enough and coated in WD should do the trick for the inside until you get it to an axle shop.
 
mollyman said:
when you say I can have mine pro rebuilt, what do you mean?? Nothing is realy broken on mine it's just that it is about 26 years old and needs rebuilt. I would want everything new (but the axle tube/shafts/knuckles) so where could I take it. Could I take the parts to them with the axle and just drop it off? My biggest problem is that I live in HILLBILLY land West Virginia. And would they clean the tube all up and everything????? Mine has auto hubs so I would want those swaped for manuel.

There should be someone in WV that can do a rebuild for you...
check some of the local 4wd clubs.

I rebuild axles for all my buddies in the Cleveland/Akron area..
If I charge, (I usually trade labor) $250 is what charge for just a gear set-up.

You should be able to find someone that won't beat you up like Boyce.:wink1:
 
i took my axles apart, i brought the parts (install kit, gears, locker) and they set everything up for $175 per axle. i then reassembled them. they said it would be about $500 per axle if i didnt take them apart and put them back together myself.

take everything apart and bring what you want to a shop and then put it back together yourself. youll save a bunch.
 
Took my old D60 down to a shop that my cousins run, was just the housing w/gears in it, and a new set of 4.56s and a T/L. They swapped the pinion bearing I think, T/L had bearings on it, brought new seals and gaskets, cost my $100. And $1600 for a friggin 10 bolt, I don't know how they can stay in business selling those. I could be a millionare with all the 10 bolts around here. With the wheeling that your gonna do, it will be fine. Wheel it and forget about it, till something breaks, then worry about building it up.
 

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