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Is a little gloating ok?

dyeager535

dyeager535

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lol. Ebay score. Some red flags with the auction, but for the price, and the "guarantee" ebay offers buyers, I figured it was worth the gamble to "buy it now" before someone else did. Paid off:

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Those are Hedman 62230's, stainless. Sold with already welded in O2 bung! FYI these are the stainless version of Hedman 69830, which are the ones that appear to be the best fit on our trucks.

$302.94 with shipping. Never used.

Since the O2 bung voids the warranty anyway, and I "only" paid $300, I'm not going to fret running header wrap on these. Partially to keep from burning stuff (to include me, my shoes, etc), partially to see if it makes any difference in underhood temps.
 
:doah: I should be watching ebay closer, Just what I have been looking for! nice score:waytogo:
 
Yes, I've been debating pulling the trigger on them at $600+, a decent sale probably would have pushed me into buying them. Still way more to do, and many years (lol) before these get installed, but a good foundation to a complete stainless exhaust system.

Not much meat left, but if I can't get the exhaust solid enough to keep the ball/socket setup from failing, I'm probably going to weld them up for V-band clamps. These if you haven't heard about or seen them: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-694200 New to me, but look like they'd be way better than any of the header flanges on the market now.
 
Header wrap will help with underhood temps but they ruin headers quickly by keeping moisture locked into place and then they fail in short order, stainless or not. Depending on the grade of Stainless they will rust inside the wrap but for certain they will become brittle and start cracking.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Header wrap will help with underhood temps but they ruin headers quickly by keeping moisture locked into place and then they fail in short order, stainless or not. Depending on the grade of Stainless they will rust inside the wrap but for certain they will become brittle and start cracking.
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x2 I am going to be replacing some headers for a friend soon on his mustang from header wrap . his headers are so bad if you touch them they crumble .

go thermal coat for the win if you ask me .

and good stainless is non-magnetic . = no magnet stick to it .
 
Is that just a property of stainless?

Is the ceramic coating that headers come with an insulator as well?
 
pure non metallic s.s. is non magnetic .

cheeper grades have some iron in it and magnet sticks to it .

I love all these people buying so called stainless steel parts and say it will never rust . . . :haha: and a magnet sticks to them all the time.

I use to build subway cars back in the late 90's and bare shell sitting out side waiting to come in for build out would rust some parts of the stainless body and not others . you know what that was from ... ha ha ha ha

thermal coating is a ceramic based type product that's applied and cured at high temp . works real good .
 
I guess my question is, if you coat stainless, or wrap it, is the result going to be the same in regards to getting brittle?

I have seen it referenced before that stainless will get brittle with heat. I would think if heat causing brittleness is the issue an internal thermal coating would be the only way to solve the issue, either that or leave them uncoated.

Totally know what you mean about "good" stainless. Note that a magnet won't stick to OEM mirrors for our trucks if original.
 
Test it out for us. Throw a magnet on the headers. Find out if they are austenitic stainless.

Ceramic coating should help "Push" the heat down the tubes and out the exhaust. But I doubt that if they are a good grade of stainless they would get brittle from the heat cycles.
 
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meh, the hedmans are a fanboy header.. :haha: plenty of hookers and thorleys with just as good a fitment stories... and ball/socket is overrated IMO...



you want to wrap for heat retention, that's fine... but it certainly wont help the durability...
 
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Nice score!!! Those should work quite well!!! I personally would not wrap them though, all the headers I've seen that were wrapped have had corrosion issues.
 
that's my opinion.. trust, and treat if needed, the stainless, whether it's quality 316, or 304... but let it breathe, and BE stainless..

leave the Jet-Hot, etc for mild steel...
 
ryoken said:
that's my opinion.. trust, and treat if needed, the stainless, whether it's quality 316, or 304... but let it breathe, and BE stainless..

leave the Jet-Hot, etc for mild steel...
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Why? What's the scoop?
 
coating stainless IMO is like putting icing on a frosted cake... the stainless IS the topcoat... I've seen some STOOOOOPID expensive jacketed marine headers in my day, 1/2 mil $ skaters, etc, and NEVER have I seen them coated.. it's ALL in the quality of the stainless, and the welds..



that said.... for our rigs and guys that are willing to spend a bit more than the cheapest header Summit has to offer, , IMO, it's a tossup between a nicely built set of stainless headers, whether custom or manny'd, from $6,700 manny'd to 1200 custom and a set of Jet-Hot (higher end sterling) coating.. for vehicles.. not boats...


my opinion is that a set of custom built/fitting (collector work, O2's) mild steel headers sent to Jet Hot for a sweet $300 high end ceramic is the better route.. all ceramic is not created equal, by far... most header manny's coating are far inferior to Jet-Hot's high end stuff.. not even close from my experience...

it's certainly a balancing act... I've often considered ss for headers.. and looked at $1000 offerings.. for the bulletproof collector options I prefer, I felt, modded and Jet-hotted steel is the best route..

obviously this doesn't apply to everyone.. I just try to open other avenues of thought for most, whether they want to hear it, or not... :whistle: :doah: ;) :haha:
 
ryoken said:
coating stainless IMO is like putting icing on a frosted cake... the stainless IS the topcoat... I've seen some STOOOOOPID expensive jacketed marine headers in my day, 1/2 mil $ skaters, etc, and NEVER have I seen them coated.. it's ALL in the quality of the stainless, and the welds..
:
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Ceramic coating isn't just for rust proofing. It also improves the thermal efficiency of the engine. Hence what I said earlier about it pushing heat down the pipe. I am not very good explaining sometimes. But I will try. But it like insulation for you house. It keeps the heat in pipe and not in the engine compartment.

If you look at the thermal conductivity of mild steel (90W/m.k) vs stainless ( 15W/m.k)(316l). The stainless is 75 units lower. So it a matter of whether you want heat under your hood or not. Personally I do not.
So right away the stainless is much better. Now say you apply your ceramic coating, that number will only improve. Hence pushing heat down your pipe. Or like wrapping your house in insulation.

Its like turbo's. Everyone thinks they work off of the flow of the exhaust gas. That's wrong. They work from the thermal expansion of exhaust gas. Even though we aren't talking turbo appication here we want to do the same thing. As thermal expansion happens its creating scavenging.. I don't know if this is making sense or not, but I think you all get the drift.

Anyway since the stainless is low in thermal conductivity we might as well HELP it by coating it.
 
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beags86 said:
Ceramic coating isn't just for rust proofing. .
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ummmmm, I know that... I just think if your gonna do ceramic, you're better off doing mild steel... the corrosion protection IS the reason you'd go stainless, especially with it's tendencies for cracking...
 
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Stainless doesn't do well because isn't as good with heat fatigue (it's coefficient of thermal expansion is low thus it creates more thermal stain) giving it a tendency to crack after many heat cycles. I think this would be helped by coating.

So if we insulate it we can get the heat down the pipe vs letting the heat soak into the header material.

Corrosion protection isn't the only reason to go stainless. As I stated before since it's so much lower with thermal coefficient it would help under hood temps.
 
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