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Is anyone running 39.5's with just a 6" lift???

BOWTIE said:
my buds k5. 6" lift and 39.5 boggers. wheels are 15x12 bead locks with 3.5 back spacing. had to hack the fenders so they can fit.
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That is cut damn near identical to my truck...it's just a lot harder to see on a flat black truck.

I did my front removed from the truck, and did them from the inside out. I followed the line that the inner bolted to so I knew I could still run them. At that point I put them on the truck and prettied the contours up. I then made a sheetmetal template of the new wheel arch contour and transferred that to the rear wheel openings with a sharpie marker and trimmed the rears.

Rene
 
i have 5" of lift and 39.5s.

if all my pics hadnt got chit canned when the members rides thing changed I could post one here. :mad:

j
 
jekbrown said:
i have 5" of lift and 39.5s.

if all my pics hadnt got chit canned when the members rides thing changed I could post one here. :mad:

j
Shane74 has a few pic's of your truck in his album Jay-man...:cool1:

Rene
 
Alright, this is now an official hijack :grin: Who out of all of you had to move the axles? A few people said something about moving the front axle forward an inch to avoid tire contact with the firewall/floor. Do you elminate this step with a 6" lift or not?
 
Saggy front 4" springs, shackle flip rear with stock springs and a 2" body lift. The ruck was loaded down with a weekends worth of food and equipment too.

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Here is mine on 39.5s-

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It had a small lift in the front when I got it,,, maybe a 2 inch lift as the springs are fairly flat, just a smidge of positive arch. If I remember right, stock springs generally have a slight negative arch. A 0-rate was added to move the axle forward and to gain an inch. All together,,, I think it has about 6 inches of lift.

When I cut the front fenders, I clamped the inner and outer fenders together and welded them. I tried to give it a rounded edge which I did on most of the fender, some parts of the fender I just lapped the inner and outer together. Later I found out about welding small diameter steel tubing {3/8ths or 5/16ths} between them for a finished look and to keep from cutting up the tires when you rub em. I can tell you that that little idea would have saved me some time.
 
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how to fit 19.5x44s

I know it's not exactly what you are looking for, but I run about 8" of suspension with no body lift to clear 44s. I moved the front axle forward 1.5" and the rear back 5.5". I also cut the fenders pretty heavily. I'm now sitting pretty with a 125" wheelbase on a factory shortbox pickup frame. I like it a lot. I'm sure you'll have no trouble fitting 40s with 6".
 
WOW, this thread has taken off:D I have made up my mind and am gonna go with the 6" lift and 39.5" boggers and do a little :hack: . thanks again for all the help and especially all the pics!!


One more question for those with at least a 6", did you have to lengthen the front shaft?
 
It probaly depends on what you use it for. My shaft has been lenghtened a couple of inches. But you can also get a 1" spacer to put between your drive shaft and transfer that will also help with crossmember clearance. You will also have to clearance grind the CV on your shaft. I run the 1" spacer on my '84 with 8" spring and no probs. I think I bought in from Rock Mountain Suspension
 
tRustyK5 said:
The key is to move the front diff forward betweem 1" and 1.5" to help keep the tires from rubbing the firewall/floor. the rest is just sheetmetal trimming.

Rene

do you need to have crossover just to move it forward 1 inch?
 
blazd88 said:
do you need to have crossover just to move it forward 1 inch?

You don't need to have cross over theres enough adjustment for the 1-1.5" of axle movement, does make things easier for you late modle guys to do the crossover though...
 
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