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is it safe to wheel w/lift blocks?

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does annybody listen to the crap this guy spewes out? if you think for a second that Stephen Watson would design anything unsafe and market it to people like us than your a retard, and no its not a block, it is an add a leaf, by design. And ps if all your gonna do is come to this board and talk crap at least pony up the 25 bucks for a membership, ya cheapass /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

[/ QUOTE ] Dayyyuuuum man /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif that came from left feild /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
As long as they are steel and they are in the rear you'll be fine...i beat the snot out of my 79 for a few years....then i installed the springer suspension and found the pins on the blocks broken as they were aluminum...so go with steel and wheel away...and check that ubolt torque every oil change...150 ft lbs.

DW
 
if a zero rate is a "block" then so is every other part of the spring pack that isn't actually bolted to a shackle. Most springs have just one leaf that is secured by something more than the u-bolts/center pin. With that kind of definition, it seems like every leaf-sprung rig uses blocks...

j
 
What would you guys think of custom-made steel blocks with center-pin holes drilled through them? Do you think standard cast iron blocks are too soft a metal for a tow rig? Could you even get a center-pin long enough for blocks that are 3" or 4" tall?
 
definite ly manual tranny.but to the point of this post.i ran 4 inch blocks for 3 years and the center pin sheared and i almost lost my axle under my truck.good thing i check it every time i change the oil.while you are under there you might as well do a under carriage inspection.what else you got to do while the oil drains??as long as you center pin remains intact you will be fine with blocks.you would probably have to special order a center pin long enough to fit through the blocks.also watch out for if your axle has shims or not.most blocks you buy will be tapered to help correct the angle.i would measure yours before buying the blocks to know how much angle you need.if you need custom taper or anything like that you can get in touch with bill at azkickin.com .i had him make me a custom set of shims for my rear end.came out real nice.
 
the aluminum ones are total crap
the cast steel ones are marginally better, mine broke in half within 2 years of service
much like body lifts the commercially available stuff is junk
I used a solid block of mild steel to make 2" rear blocks
they have lasted 11 years with no problems
 
there is no reason to put the centre pin through the block
you gain nothing nadda zip, probably lose more pins that way
blocks have a female to accept the pin and a pin to go into the perch
you would have to get the ubolts to back off about a 1/2" to get either of those to pop out
 
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if a zero rate is a "block" then so is every other part of the spring pack that isn't actually bolted to a shackle. Most springs have just one leaf that is secured by something more than the u-bolts/center pin. With that kind of definition, it seems like every leaf-sprung rig uses blocks...

j

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My point exactly... if it's zero rates, or springs only, (I view a zero as part of a srping pack, but will call it a block for the sake of arguement) it still needs a srping pin to hold.... mj's point does not really hold up. Either way, both systems can fail due to a busted pin.

So... theres really no arguement at all about the pin being a weak point for zero rates... it's a weak point for both.
 
actually you just argue my point genius.
it IS just the same as any other block, no safer, no more dangerous.
 
MJ does that big rig you drive have front blocks? I know my '88 Pete does from the factory. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
 
The internationals I used to work on had front blocks on the 4x4s. I've also seen front blocks on School buses.
Doesn't mean its right though.
I personally think a block is a block, doesn't matter if it has a hole through the center for a pin or a notch for the pin. Its better that these are made exclusively for these style vehicles which I think is safer than the generic blocks that some people put in the rear of thier vehicles.
What bugs me worse is all the dealerships around with "top of the line lifts " stacking a couple of 4" blocks to lift vehicles nowadays.
 
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actually you just argue my point genius.
it IS just the same as any other block, no safer, no more dangerous.

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uhhhh, no... my point is that with the MJ definition in effect, every leaf spring ever made has "blocks" in it, hence the question "is it safe to wheel with lift blocks" may not be appropriately worded.

j
 
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actually you just argue my point genius.
it IS just the same as any other block, no safer, no more dangerous.

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Cool, then I guess we agree, ya ass clown..
 
yup, most of them have blocks.
driving an 89 Western Star locally now
hauling gravel in and enddump or a lowbed moving equipment
444XT 18speed

for the leaf springs are blocks guys, the difference lies in the extended length on a leaf to add rate and resist wrap
the blocks increase wrap potential
 
glad I could help ya understand the basics.
it is one of the services I provide for the really stupid ones here.
 
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actually you just argue my point genius.
it IS just the same as any other block, no safer, no more dangerous.

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Well the zero rates are safer than most blocks using the reasoning that most cheap blocks are junk and prone to breaking, where as the zero rates are solid steel. Also at 1" thick they put only a small amount of stress on your suspension instead of all the extra leverage that say a 4" or 6" block adds. I believe that is why they are safe for use up front, 1" is not much stress, but if you say blocks in general are just as safe as zero rates, people are gonna think that thier cheapie 4" blocks are ok for front use.

Also on the side of the blocks argument, the biggest issue people seem to have is with them breaking, so if you use a solid steel lift block you basically eliminate that risk. Still have the possibility of spitting them out if the u-bolts are loose, but that is maintenance issue and there are plenty of areas where your rig can fail due to lack of maintenance.
 
exactly
well said
had a truck in today with most of the off the shelf block missing
most of the aftermarket stuff available at 4x4 shops is total crap and should be avoided
there is no good reason to run a block, they are a bandaid for other problems
 
Well... I tried to stay quiet but I am chuckling now pretty good so kinda hafta make an input.
My biggest chuckle is the name 'zero rate add-a-leaf'. Its called an add-a-leaf because it bolts into the leaf pack like a regular spring. Its called 'zero rate' because its too flippin short to affect the leaf pack at all. Thats it. Thats all. Its a fricken block that is bolted into the leaf pack. I agree with MJ on this one. A lift block is a block that gives lift. Whether or not its got a center bolt thru it or just a divot and a pin to center it doesnt matter. If your u-bolts are installed correctly and tight, either one will serve you with many years of effective lift. The only times Ive seen 4" lift blocks fail is when the axle wraps so often and hard that it actually bends the spring perch into a downward arc. This will let the 'block' or the leaf pack with blocks included rock back and forth eventually breaking the block in half (if its not solid) or possibly spitting it out if its solid.
As was stated, its a maintenance issue. Keep your eye on your suspension stuff. Catch the potential problems before they get nasty. I had to replace my spring mounts with a nifty heavy duty friend built set that were very flat. That eliminated my troubles totally.
I did break a Rancho lift block in half and very nearly spit out the front half of it. It wasnt solid, but was strong enough... until the spring mount bent from axle wrap. (which BTW you will get whether its a lift block or a zero rate add a leaf).
I currently run 3/4" overload springs cut down to 6" long on all 4 leaf packs... ya, if you like call em zero rates... They work for me. And I call them lift blocks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Mike

Oh ya... and as far as using 'cheapie' lift blocks in the front... its not a matter of the blocks being cheap that makes then unsafe for the front. Its the fact of the leverage forces on the 'tower' of lift under the springs when you turn a corner. If its higher... you get more sideways stress... this may rock the entire tower sideways off the mount bending or breaking the u-bolts and not steering the truck where its supposed to go.

Thats it for me... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
With zero rate's you remove the bolt that holds the springs in alignment and install the new one in the kit.

Blocks do not require this as far as I know? /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
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