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Is it worth replacing valve covers on a beat up engine?

76k5grrl

76k5grrl

killin it
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As noted in a previous thread, I have a significant oil leak at my passenger's side valve cover. So much so that at times I open the hood to make sure there's no fire. (of course there never is).... it's gotten much worse since the weather has turned hot and it's past time to replace the valve cover gaskets. Everything I keep reading suggests that it might be worth replacing the valve covers, too??? How relevant are torque specs? I've read everything from "snug" to "make sure you torque it properly". I understand that over-tightening will mess the gaskets up. Also... particular gasket type? And do you guys glue to the valve cover or no?

However.... this engine has been beat to crap. I intend to keep it running as long as possible but I have no honest idea how much life is left in it- could be that it runs forever, could be that I replace it in the next year. :dunno:

The PO was running 20/50 in it "because it burns so much oil".

I get no "warning light" but I can tell when I need to add oil without actually checking it because it starts to feel funny- just the slightest little weirdness when driving.

I suspect this b*tch has been run dry a couple times.

Also, if I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets and potentially the valve covers, what else is worth changing? Should I drop the oil pan? I honestly have no idea.

I've never done this myself. Not really intimidated by the job but it's a daily driver and I'd like to keep it that way so I don't want to miss anything. :waytogo:
 
Just replace the gaskets, no need to replace rocker arm covers unless they are all dimpled from over tightening. As far as what material that's a matter of choice, i like the silicone rubber ones (they are reusable) but spendy. Cheap option, cork and a little permatex brushed on and that will work also. As far as tightening, main thing is don't over tighten (will dimple covers). An even good and snug all the way around and you will be good to go.
If the oil pan gasket and front rubber under the timing cover are not leaking, leave it be. Replace rocker arm cover gaskets first and then chase more leaks if you have any.
 
If you do wind up needing the actual valve covers, I've got a brand new set off a Goodwrench 350 that you can have.
 
I think those will work fine Sarah, as long as the v/c are reasonably straight it should work well.
I like to glue them to the v/c and then put a thin coat of vaseline or cooking spray on the head side...makes em easy to get off the next time...works well for me!

And milk that engine until you can go BBC!
oh and just watch your oil pressure...should be minimum of 20# at hot idle, and an additional 10# every 1k rpm over 2K.
So if you wind it up to 7K you should have 70#!
 
In both cases the bolts were LOOSE in some spots and what I would consider to be "past snug" in others. How often should I check these after this job?

P.s. Scraping gaskets suxxxxxx now I remember doing this for my ex... It's a job you give to people you don't want to help. :haha:
 
I'm just stoked ya had the tools to do the job... :bow:
 
Haha.. Well one of the only things my ex DID leave me (aside from the confidence to turn them) was a decent set of tools. He got his Big Boy toolbox and I got the little kid one. And the good jack. And the jackstands... So. Even tho that dude technically took me for thousands, he also saved le thousands
 
Sarah, just snug them down, in a right top, left bottom, right bottom, left top order, just enough to feel the valve cover start to compress the gasket a little, but not more than that. It can be done with a nut driver type if you have that. What bolt/washer combo you using? On steel valve covers the load spreader type wings under the bolt are important to keep from caving in the metal and distributing the bolt load...you shouldn't need to re-tighten them unless you find a little seepage, then make sure its not already overtight and snug again if necessary.

Nut-Driver.jpg
 
I think I whooped it. Not really sure. Next time I'll just buy new valve covers. It's not worth the bs cleaning them up- as someone suggested, and you were right.

What is the best way to clean up where it's been blowing oil so long so I can see if it's still leaking?

P.s. It's actually blowing oil from like..... Everywhere it seems. Lol
 
brake clean works well, or soak it with some gunk engine clean for a bit then scrub and clean with brake clean.

gunk.jpg
 
Thanks for all the help. I will find out tomorrow if I did a good enough job
 
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