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Is my driveline angle good?

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kodiakisland

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This is with 2.5 inch skyjacker springs and a 1 inch zero rate. The springs did not come with any shims and the zero rate is not tapered. I have not driven it yet, but it just looks like the axle should be rotated up some. What do you think?

truck-1.jpg
 
get an angle finder and figure out what degree you need to rotate (the pinion angle should match the T-case output angle), then mill the zero-rate accordingly
 
So if the pinion angle turns out to be the same as the T-case angle I'm good? Within how many degrees off is OK?

These 2.5in springs were the same length from center pin to spring eye and did not have any taper. They also did not come with any shims. I'm wondering if I put them in backward or if it would make any difference. The instructions said the thinck end of shims and the long end of springs toward the rear, but there were no shims and no longer end.

Maybe I'll call skyjacker in the morning and see whats screwed up. I wouldn't think the 1 inch zero rates would be the problem.
 
On the 52" rears the center pin is actually centered, on 56" rears the center pin is offset by 4" (short side forward so the front hanger is in the same spot on all chevy trucks). I'm running 56" 2.5in lift skyjacker rears and they didn't have a taper shim either but I'm also using a DIY4X shackle flip as well
 
resurrected_jimmy said:
On the 52" rears the center pin is actually centered, on 56" rears the center pin is offset by 4" (short side forward so the front hanger is in the same spot on all chevy trucks). I'm running 56" 2.5in lift skyjacker rears and they didn't have a taper shim either but I'm also using a DIY4X shackle flip as well
Click to expand...

Thanks. That at least clears up whether I put them in backward or not.
 
personally never heard of a spring company sending out shims with their springs
however I've never bought new springs before
sounds good
get an angle finder and figure out what degree you need to rotate (the pinion angle should match the T-case output angle), then mill the zero-rate accordingly
Click to expand...
 
I am running the exact same setup on my 91. On mine I had a horrible u-joint vibration once I got over 60mph, but lowering the transfer case 1" fixed it. I am not running any shims, and am using the stock driveshaft.
 
...fix it quick, bro!

i had (or still have) exactly the same problem, pre-owner lifted too high, now angle is not correct anymore. Blazer since 1 week at the mechanic, all f****d up... just lost 3'500.- USD on reparation...(Europe!) but now fixed perfectly.

The mechanic told me to go back to original setup, means lowering everything back to factory and put on normal wheels...the lift and the tire combo are damaging everything slowly but surely...
 
Drove it today. Slight vibration up to 25mph and then no vibration faster. I only got it up to 55. It's not licensed or insured so I didn't get far from home. The angle appears to be about the same from the T-case.
 
07coupegt said:
I am running the exact same setup on my 91. On mine I had a horrible u-joint vibration once I got over 60mph, but lowering the transfer case 1" fixed it. I am not running any shims, and am using the stock driveshaft.
Click to expand...

Did you just move the stock spacers or is there a kit to lower it one inch? All the kits I've found lower it 4 inches or more.
 
I work as a machinist, so I just made some spacers out of 1" plate at work. 1" tubing will work just fine though. In addition to the high speed vibration, my truck also had a slight vibe at around 35mph, when accellerating.
 
not to hijack, but the PO played with the "spacers". How are they supposed to go stock wise?
 
Stock the cross member should be against the frame rail. The spacers go inside the frame and allow you to run a longer bolt.

Lots of people bring them down between the frame and cross member to lowr it 1" This creates stress points and cracks.

As mentioned above. If you need to lower the case as a temp fix use a solid spacer the length of the cross member or 1" tube to distribute the weight.

Lowering the cross member may help with your rear angle a little, but it makes the front angle worse
 
Front Driveshaft too short?

After a 6" lift my front driveshaft (single cardan) is too short or at a bad angle. The only options I know of currently are to lower the transfer case or use a driveshaft spacer like Superlift offers or get a custom extended driveshaft. Would these solve my problem or will the angle still be horribly off?
 
mtroilak said:
After a 6" lift my front driveshaft (single cardan) is too short or at a bad angle. The only options I know of currently are to lower the transfer case or use a driveshaft spacer like Superlift offers or get a custom extended driveshaft. Would these solve my problem or will the angle still be horribly off?
Click to expand...

You could use the spacer, or get a longer driveshaft built.

Lowering the T-case will only make the angle for the front CV worse.
 
Right now we have the lift kit on the blazer and the front driveshaft is not on the vehicle. What do most people do to for the front driveshaft when you have a big lift installed?
 
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