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Is my ignition switch going bad?

76k5blazerr

76k5blazerr

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How’s it going fellas. Haven’t been around much lately for a variety of reasons, but some of you probably know I daily drive an 89 Jimmy. I have driven it for over 2 years now without a hiccup. The other day for the first time, I turned the key to “crank” and nothing happened. I was able to wiggle the shifter, bang on the column etc. and it eventually cranked and started. It was fine for a few days and then 2 days ago it did it again. Again, after some various whacking it cranked. And it was fine until just now, went to start it and nothing again. Except this time for the 5 mins I played with it I couldn’t get it to crank.

Sound like the ignition switch is going bad? Wouldn’t be the lock cylinder would it? This one definitely feels worn. Anything else it might be?
 
Theres a geared cam behind the cylinder that moves. A rod comes off that to actuate the switch

Pretty good chance any of those are worn, but the switch would be my guess.
You should be able to make a minor adjustment (re move the switch a dab) to change how far the rod has to travel to actuate it

If you change the cylinder, change the cam and switch too
 
yes if its a tilt column is it loose / wobbly ? if so this rod actuator unit can be bent and popping off the rod .

i just went threw this on my BUDGET BEATER build in the link below .

but the price of a ignition switch it might be a cheep toss in and see what it does . years ago i got one swapped for a guy who kept puting in starters and it was just the switch was going bad . he was pissed the other shops didnt check that .
 
Is the minor adjustment you speak of something I could do with my hand by reaching up over the column or will it require some work? I really just need to be able to get it home next week. I am out of town right now. Crawling under and jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid is last result but I’d like to make the key work if I can. And when I get home I am going to replace the switch, cylinder and cam I guess. @Bent77
 
sweetk30 said:
yes if its a tilt column is it loose / wobbly ? if so this rod actuator unit can be bent and popping off the rod .

i just went threw this on my BUDGET BEATER build in the link below .

but the price of a ignition switch it might be a cheep toss in and see what it does . years ago i got one swapped for a guy who kept puting in starters and it was just the switch was going bad . he was pissed the other shops didnt check that .
Click to expand...
and yes it is a tilt column but it’s not wobbly. I didn’t even think to put it in a different position and try to crank it. I always leave it in the straight position. Sometimes I forget I have tilt I guess.
 
You can also move the rod to the switch to check to see if the cam or gear is broke. 1/8" or so rod on the left side on top of the column. Pull back to start.
 
I would start with checking the neutral safety switch. It has a ratchet type adjustment, and can possibly move. I had one do that. But it is also prone to wear of the contacts or the tab which the column moves the switch with. Have you tried just moving the shifter to neutral? Or hold the brake, move the shifter while you hold the ignition in "crank" position.
If you are suspicious of it, just unplug it and use a jumper wire to test. It should have one of the wires be purple in color.

If it proves good, then go to the ignition switch and column.
 
6872xtc said:
I would start with checking the neutral safety switch. It has a ratchet type adjustment, and can possibly move. I had one do that. But it is also prone to wear of the contacts or the tab which the column moves the switch with. Have you tried just moving the shifter to neutral? Or hold the brake, move the shifter while you hold the ignition in "crank" position.
If you are suspicious of it, just unplug it and use a jumper wire to test. It should have one of the wires be purple in color.

If it proves good, then go to the ignition switch and column.
Click to expand...
Yes I have tried to start in neutral. Same thing
 
Check the positive wire on the starter. Make sure it’s snug, but do not over tighten it. May be ignition module going out too
 
Try holding the key in the crank position and move the shifter thru all its positions,keep your foot on the brake in case it does start in gear--as noted above,the neutral safety might be out of adjustment (could be junk too).

I'd try applying 12V to the thick purple wires on the neutral safety switch if that fails to do anything-(One of the wires goes to the ignition,the other to the starter solenoid,the solenoid one is the one you want to apply power too )...-basically that does the same thing as crawling under the truck and jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver to see if it'll crank then,which is more difficult and dangerous.

--if it does crank then,it's either the ignition switch not sending power to that purple "crank" wire on the solenoid,or the power isn't making it past the neutral safety,or the wire has failed somewhere between the switch and starter solenoid..or if it gets 12V to the solenoid but still wont crank,it may be the solenoid is bad or the starter has a "dead spot"--or the amount of amperage may be too low to activate the solenoid.
 
I had a chance to mess with it some this afternoon. I played with the shifter and tilt column a bunch to try and see if it would start in any position and got nothing. Then I pulled the dashbezel and everything off and unbolted the column and lowered it down a few inches to see the switch. @Bent77 @ktmoutfront I was able to slide the switch back an 1/8 inch but the truck still didn’t crank. Does this mean the switch is just totally done for? I also wiggled all the battery cables and starter solenoid wires and still got nothing. How hard is it to line up the metal rod when reinstalling the switch. Looks like a bear to get hands up in there. Also, if I drop the column as low as I can, I am not risking damaging anything am I? Thanks
 
Just watch the gear indicator cord. They brake easily. The rod is easy to line up. It's just right but very doable.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Just watch the gear indicator cord. They brake easily. The rod is easy to line up. It's just right but very doable.
Click to expand...
Already disconnected the gear indicator. It looks like the rod just kinda snaps into the hole in the switch, am I correct?
 
Replaced ignition switch today, still no start. Thinking that the NSS is the next thing to check. I located it at the base of the column but there are 2 plugs going into it, one is orange and black wires and the other is blue and green wires. Which one is the NSS wires? I understand they come from the ignition switch. The other plug is the reverse lights correct? Just don’t know which is which. Planning on running a jumper wire to bypass the NSS and try to start. Any other ideas? Also, last resort, what is the easiest way to get the truck to crank up if I still can’t get it to go with the key after this? I just need to make one trip with it back home.
 
I already told you how...no one seems to listen to me..:(
You put yourself thru much labor and expense for nothing..

As a last resort you can use a jumper wire with two alligator clips to jump the solenoid,you'll have to crawl under the truck and find the starter solenoid's wire that goes on the "S" terminal,usually the wire is pink or purple,and its the only smaller gauge wire on it besides the battery cable--clip one end of the wire on that post with the smaller wire,then touch the other end to the battery positive post,and it should crank over..you'll need the key on to let it fire up don't forget..
This is safer than using a screwdriver under the truck lying on your back..
 
diesel4me said:
I already told you how...no one seems to listen to me..:(
You put yourself thru much labor and expense for nothing..

As a last resort you can use a jumper wire with two alligator clips to jump the solenoid,you'll have to crawl under the truck and find the starter solenoid's wire that goes on the "S" terminal,usually the wire is pink or purple,and its the only smaller gauge wire on it besides the battery cable--clip one end of the wire on that post with the smaller wire,then touch the other end to the battery positive post,and it should crank over..you'll need the key on to let it fire up don't forget..
This is safer than using a screwdriver under the truck lying on your back..
Click to expand...
I appreciate your help. I did try what you said to do first, but I guess my truck is new enough that with the key turned in the crank position like you said, I was unable to move the shifter through the gears. Also, I don’t have any thick purple wires coming off of my neutral safety. Hence my post above which plug I need to remove to bypass the NSS.
 
Well,sorry if I sounded harsh,I posted in hopes you'd avoid having to do any labor or buy parts by diagnosing the problem first..

GM may have changed the color of the wires on an '89, every GM truck I've had from 73-87 had a pink or purple wire going to the solenoid "start" post and neutral safety...

Easy way to tell which wires are for the reverse lamps--turn on the key,put the shifter in reverse so the lights come on,then unplug one of the connectors on the neutral safety--when the lights go off,then you'll know which plug does what...turn the key off again before plugging it back in or the fuse might pop ..

I always "hot wire" the solenoid when I have a truck that wont crank,to ensure it isn't the starter before I go yanking it out--often the starter is fine,and its a wiring issue..blown fusible links are a common cause,or the neutral safety isn't aligned properly so it wont start in park or neutral,etc..

I haven't had to replace an ignition switch on any of my trucks over the years,and most had tons of miles and the tumblers were so worn the keys can be removed in the "on" position..they usually do not fail that often..

I know if the fusible link that powers the cab fails the starter wont crank,nor will it have spark,because it provides power to the ignition switch and everything it controls..

I have had to use a jumper wire with a fuse to "bypass" the fusible links by running it straight to the battery,to the junction block near the brake booster on the firewall,then jump the ignition coil too,to get spark,so I could drive my truck home once when I fried the fusible links when plowing..the battery fell out of the tray when I rammed a snowbank and shorted the positive terminal to ground..

I do not recommend this if your not "good" with wires or electricity though,because you can risk burning the harness or the truck up if you do it wrong or don't put a fuse in your jumper wire..
 
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