What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Is my transfer case toast?

Driving in Moab, on sand stone, with a 208, in 4lo, with lockers front and rear, with hubs locked, in a tight circle, causes a wealth of squalling, bucking, popping, and various other noises, but no damage to the drivetrain. (well.......not yet....16 years)LOL (run-on sentence used for emphasis) LOL Unless you count power steering problems, as drive train! LOL
 
Goin slow on a hard surface in 4WD, in high or low range, will still allow some release of tension and binding in the form of tire slippage ( it’s hard on the drivetrain but doable ) - it’s at higher speeds where this becomes a real issue and the slip and release doesn’t happen which is where the true trouble comes into play.

An experienced off road driver knows the limitations of driving a true 4WD system on hard surfaces ( also knowing how to minimize the tension when it’s time to shift the case or unlock hubs that act in real time ) but in general it’s best to give advice to the masses to avoid doing this practice.

In a semi-similar way it’s like comparing shifting a manual transmission without using a clutch all up and down the gears - it can be done but it’s not for everyone.
Anyone can try it but you can jack stuff up quickly if ya ain’t got the notion of what’s goin on and some people are successful at it but not good at it causing a ton of wear that just hasn’t become a problem yet ( all the while touting that they’ve done it with no problems ) - so as a rule it’s not suggested for the average driver and is discouraged for those who need to ask how.

The advice of not “testing” this on the road was given for the above reasons - others talk’n about wheel’n at Moab should know that is a different scenario all together. That’s a higher level of driving skills.
This was talk’n about finding out why there is binding not convincing that it’s acceptable.
As a rule stay off of hard surfaces while in 4WD such as the road while turning and wondering why there is binding.
 
Last edited:
tarussell said:
others talk’n about wheel’n at Moab should know that is a different scenario all together. That’s a higher level of driving skills.
This was talk’n about finding out why there is binding not convincing that it’s acceptable.
Click to expand...

tarussell said:
As a rule stay off of hard surfaces while in 4WD such as the road while turning and wondering why there is binding.
Click to expand...
While I understand your intention in this, I don't believe that it's completely true that Moab is a different scenario. Still high traction surface. And there is plenty of stuff in Moab that isn't high level driving. It just doesn't get the publicity like the bigger obstacles.
:D

As far as the noises that can happen, I have had an F350 wrecker talk to me while pulling out of the ditch onto pavement. I couldn't stop and kick it out because of being on the interstate with traffic stopped. Had to get the wrecker and the vehicle being pulled moved quickly and it wouldn't shift out because of pressure on everything. Yes, it sounds bad. But the truck never had a problem afterwards.

Your advice of not testing on pavement is worded very well.
:waytogo:
 
No more testing. Afaik the transfer case is fine. I learned an important lesson and got lucky nothing was damaged. It was only like 20-30' but still. When I test drove it on pavement in 4wd (the seller said he never put it into 4wd for the ~5 years he owned it) it did ok too. Newb opinion is that NP241C's rock! It saved me from myself.


Next is the AC issue. @Wes Harden, you know anything about those
 
clutch2k3 said:
(the seller said he never put it into 4wd for the ~5 years he owned it)
Click to expand...
You should probably check out all the U-joints in the front end. Never having them turn tends to dry them out. The front axleshaft ones are notorious for this and could also cause a clicking sound!
 
I replaced the bearings, seals, lock nuts, u joints, ball joints, converted to Warn manual hubs, and unfroze a stuck bleeder in the driver's side caliper. I finished the front end last month. I flushed the brake system and steering system, replaced the steering high pressure Line, and replaced the steering box . I did not replace the diff or inner seals since it's working fine and I didn't see any leaks. I replaced the front diff fluid (twice), the drag links and tie rod ball joint seals. Then I wire wheeled and rattle canned rust inhibitor & 2 coates of DE1634 to everything connected to the front axle. Thanks for the compliments on my work!

Btw The last owner was an idiot and let the brand new tires get flat spots, didn't change the oil during the ~5 years he owned it, left the rear window unable to go up/down, left the carpet insulation soaked from a broken heater core and ignored 2 separate ant colonies living under the carpet, one in the front passenger side and a second in the rear passenger side. Maybe if the ant colonies were on the driver's side he'd have done something about it? :dunno:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom