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Is my truck murdering batteries?

76k5grrl

killin it
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..... or am I just seeing the unfortunate effects of purchasing a cheap-o?

Truck is still technically on the block but the process is on hold because the battery draw I thought was rectified persists, and it is simply not worth any money if it won't stay running.

Anyway, I went to jump it today so I could drive it to a friend's shade tree shop and let them track the problem down, and it wouldn't jump.

Took battery out, autozone says it's junk. It's a brand new "never start" from walmart, purchased via swap in March. Thing is, this is the THIRD walmart battery that I've swaped out of this truck in 2 years.

Is the truck really damaging these batteries or is the walmart battery that bad, or both?
 
Running the wal-mart batteries in the truck, car, and mower. None have caused me an issue. My opinion is that all batteries today are a crapshoot in terms of quality.

Disconnect the battery when you let it sit, if it won't hold a charge, it's a battery problem. I wonder how much markup is on batteries expecting people to kill multiple before the problem gets resolved lol. :)

"Best" way to test draw is to use a meter and see what the electrical load is with the key off. I've heard you can use a 12V bulb inline on the battery cable as well.
 
Like dyeager said, disconnecting is going to be your best bet for a no equipment test.
If you have a test light: Disconnect the negative terminal from your battery. Connect the test light in line, one end to the negative post the other to the negative cable end. Key off doors closed(no loads) the test light should be vary dim. Open the door/turn on the key(add a load) and the light should get brighter. If there is no change(the light is all ways bright) you have a draw.

I never have good luck with cheep batterys. I feel you get what you pay for. Just my .02
 
What would be a good battery for these rigs?
Yeah good question. Because after I swap this one out on warranty, I will never buy another one again.

I know my truck is the majority of the problem but even if the batteries are "good" the rock bottom service at Walmart is no longer worth it. I waited almost 40 min before anyone even helped me-all they had to do was scan my receipt to tell me the battery is bad, and then they didn't have the replacement.

So, what's are good battery options? I don't suppose I need like The Best, but I'm curious what that would be.
 
I'm a big fan of AGM style batteries myself, particularly for an off-road rig, but you'll pay for them. Optimas seem to be hit or miss, I got a Diehard Platinum that I am happy with, someone told me it was the same as an Odyssey without the premium price. I think the Duralast AGM batteries from Autozone are relabled Dekas. Most batteries will do well if you take care of them. If you're prone to running the battery down, invest in a deep cycle battery, since they're more tolerant to repeated discharge. There's an old rule of thumb that a conventional battery loses half it's remaining service life every time it's completely discharged, but I have no clue how true that is.

I found that a 34/78 battery fits very nicely in the battery tray, even though it's larger than the stock size. Few more amps/reserve capacity and dual terminals for a small tradeoff in weight.

Bottom line is, I wouldn't invest in a battery until all your electrical issues are sorted out, or at very least keep a charger on it.
 
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What would be a good battery for these rigs?


1)I have had good luck with the Optimas. I know quality is dropping.
2)Interstate (MTP-78DT) dual post, good CCA. Never had a problem doing warranty with defective. Thay also make a "military developed" AGM that is stupid expensive, but supposedly worth it.
 
Sara, I have been running nothing but Interstate batteries for many many years now without issue. I usually get minimum of 10 years out of them (blazer is currently working on 13 years now).

I would buy an Interstate battery and then check for any draws on the electrical system and address them then you'll be a happy camper for a very long time.
 
Thank you all for responses. Because of the holiday weekend, the truck is sitting out back with battery disconnected. What is so frustrating is that it's a gd turnkey in every other way. I think it had been like 2 months since I drove it, put new battery in, starts right up and drives like I've been driving it every day. Runs like a top, just sucking batteries dry. Which I suppose means NOT running like a top......
 
A bad alternator diode trio will drain a battery quickly but the alternator will still charge. My suggestion is to have someone run a test for a bad diode trio if you know that you have everything else in the vehicle turned off and not causing the drain.
 
Scott's got ya covered....

I just had to chime in and give props for the thread title.. makes me laugh every time I read it on the list... :waytogo: :haha:
 
I had the same problem. But what I found out when I replaced my alternator I was killing my battery after that. I am no mechanic, that's for sure... I had The 2 little wires reversed causing a draw on battery. Might be as simple as that.
 
easy anwser there Kt if someone is not driving there rig much they should have one of these on there rig. Alot of collectors have these and/or battery tenders so there batteries don't crap out.
 
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