For a normal DD, lightly wheeled truck. I was thinking that if I did trutrac's with like Yukon shafts in my 10b's I'd probably never harm them. I usually run dry dirt roads and occasionall ditch/not to muddy field. Really I wouldn't even need the shafts probably. But I'd do them in time. Since the trutrac replaces the carrier it should be a lot stronger right? I know it's no 14b/d60, but I get to keep my wheels/tires, save weight, and possibly even some mpg.
CK5
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Is the carrier the main weakness in a 10b(non crawler)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
*Realistically* it seems the only REAL weakness of the 10 bolt in the trucks is the gov-lock, and/or massive tires. All the ones I can think of that shattered carriers were gov-lock, and that makes sense. Gov lock imparts a shock load when it applies, the smaller carrier is going to have a harder time coping with that. I think a tru-trac would work decent.
Dunno if aftermarket shafts will help, or if the limiting factor is the diameter. For small-ish tires, not sure I'd worry about them.
Running 33's, never broke a shaft mainly street and minimal off-road, but did shatter the gov-lock carrier on the street.
It really doesn't have any inherent weakness. The spider gears and gov lok are the weak spot.
I have replaced 3 because of spider gears come apart and take out the ring and pinion. I have replaced at least 6 because giv locks have come apart
I have replaced 3 because of spider gears come apart and take out the ring and pinion. I have replaced at least 6 because giv locks have come apart
Oh if your towing alot they take out the pinion bearings
But I don't think you are
But I don't think you are
truss it for good measure. I've read the C's are the weak link with larger tires (35's-37's).
Not mine vvv.
Not mine vvv.
I do tow quite often but the whole trailer loaded to the hilt is only about 2000lb's gross. (Quite often = twice a month). I MAY go with 35" tires when my 33"s go bad, but I think they'll dryrot before the tread wears off lol. With the wheeling I actually do around here I think it'd still be fine. Thanks for answering guys 
I'll just stay with my axles then.. Way simpler
I'll just stay with my axles then.. Way simpler
Spider Gears scare me.
That is all
That is all
Have to have your girlfriend smash them for you? Hmmmmmmm
I do tow quite often but the whole trailer loaded to the hilt is only about 2000lb's gross. (Quite often = twice a month). I MAY go with 35" tires when my 33"s go bad, but I think they'll dryrot before the tread wears off lol. With the wheeling I actually do around here I think it'd still be fine. Thanks for answering guys
Still plan on the tru-trac? If my gov-lock ever dies I've given thought to the tru-trac. I think for mild off-road, it would probably work good. Not a whole lot of people seem to run them, at least here. Only issue would be when you lift a tire, and for most mild off-road, that's not a real issue.
If you had them front and rear, even if you did lift one wheel, the other end would be more likely to assist.
I'd not worry about MPG changes with the axle weight. Tires, lift and/or gears are going to hurt more. FWIW, if it's not a dire need, keep your eyes open for a 14SF. They can be had pretty cheap, you don't lose as much clearance nor add as much weight as the FF. And while not as tough as the FF, they seem to handle just about anything you throw at them.
No. They blew up in a dirt field on flat ground.. Now I have trust issues.
You didn't have trust issues with your 10 bolt before??? Lol
fubar_k5
1/2 ton status
Kind of in the same boat with my 94 k1500 with a 6.0 still running 10 bolt. want to regear and run some type of locker in the rear end just not sure if I want to mess with the 10 bolt or find a 9.5.
So far its been holding up to me beating the crap out of it about 3000 miles but its still open diff.
So far its been holding up to me beating the crap out of it about 3000 miles but its still open diff.
I may do the sf 14 someday. I want to really. Maybe just leave the factory gov loc in that one even. But I'm thinking more of the front for now and then dealing with rear in time. Wasn't sure if it was worth putting money in the front 10b though. I just can't seem to justify the cost of putting new wheels and tires on to get 1 tons, plus the cost of the tons themselves. With one of the trutrac's, even having a wheel up it'll still transfer a portion of the power to the wheel that's down. So that'll be good enough for me. Even a clutch style diff is loads better than an open one
It never blew up before!!
I removed those silly gears in the front and it's been much happier.
The weak link on my 10 bolt front was always the stock axle shafts. I welded the spider gears so there wasn't chance for failure there. I was also running 35s but I probably could have gotten away with screwing the gas pedal to the floor because that's where it stayed all the time, basically an on off switch.
FWIW, I really like the truetrac in the 12 bolt that is in my '70. It works well for me in most conditions, especially snow , compared to open or a Detroit locker. Others think that I am nuts, but oh well. ..
I had a 3:73 rear drop a pinion tooth, but it had 200K plus on it. Gov-loc was fine, but.....
I had a 3:73 rear drop a pinion tooth, but it had 200K plus on it. Gov-loc was fine, but.....
Looks like Eaton has changed the warranty on Truetrac. It used to be 33's or something like that. IIRC, they changed the material a few years back to make the case stronger.
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/FAQforDifferentials/index.htm
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/FAQforDifferentials/index.htm
