CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Is there a cam lobe for fuel pump in an 88 tbi motor?

shady

1 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Posts
21,289
Reaction score
28,345
Location
iowa
I'm trying to find out if there's a cam lobe for a mechanical pump in an 88 tbi motor. It's been switched to carb and the intank pump went bad. We'd kind of like to not mess with getting in the tank again after this
 
I thought I seen on here once that there wasn't a lobe after a certain year is why I'm asking.
 
Either way the block may not be drilled for the pushrod either. Easy enough to look
 
It looks like my 90 has a definite area where a lobe would be, clearly a raised lobe visible. but this is only me shining a light into the fuel pump pushrod galley. I can't tell you if there is a actual lobe there, or just a factory "blank" lobe, unground lobe, so to speak. I can't turn this engine over at the moment.
 
It has a cover plate bolted on, with sealant around it so I'm guessing it's drilled.. ..

Sounds like we might put a pickup tube in place of the factory pump and an electric on the frame
 
I've found it's hit or miss weather the block is drilled and the cam has a lobe on it. Also found out having the cover doesn't mean the block is drilled either.
 
The block is definitely drilled
It has a cover plate bolted on, with sealant around it so I'm guessing it's drilled.. ..

Sounds like we might put a pickup tube in place of the factory pump and an electric on the frame
If you are pulling the tank to put a pick up tube in, just put another electric in tank...
 
Or,if your only running carb,you could use one of these,mounted close to the gas tank...not sure if you'd have to remove the dead in-tank pump,these might pull fuel thru it OK ..images (23).jpg images (22).jpg
 
That last one is what we're doing I guess. I think it'd pull through the old pump just fine. He wants to make sure it never has to come down again. This will be the 3rd pump on this truck since I bought it and it only has like 6000 miles on it in that time frame. The last one that was put in was a Delphi or Delco, can't remember which, and it only has about 1000 miles of driving on it. But that was over a 3 yr period due to the tbi troubles and all that.

The pump they sell at orilleys to replace the one in that pic above is an Edelbrock that has 7psi and good for 400 hp. So we can turn the return line into a filtered vent and lose the regulator
 
Not sure I'd run the mechanical pump through the tank pump.

Honestly probably easier to replace the tank pump, add a regulator on the TBI return, and set your carb pressure that way
 
I'd stay away from the Mr.Gasket pumps...total P-O-S...had two fail I bought and friends who used them had their die in short order too..

Facet and Purolator made those square ones,they held up the best for me in the past--I have a round one like the one above that was on my diesel pickup when I bought it in 2003 and it still works fine--but an identical one I bought I used on a garden tractor died over the winter--it was working perfect when I parked it--come spring,it only clicked a few times,got quite hot,then nothing...I suspect ethanol in the gas killed whatever is inside that does the pumping--a bellows,or diaphram...I'm going to dissect it and do an autopsy on it..

The Facet design pumps use a nylon ball and solenoid to do the pumping ,so they are more resistant to alcohol...
 
If you keep replacing pumps there is a reason. Pays to use oem parts sometimes.

Over the counter auto parts pumps are the worst.
 
This one had the least amount of miles and was the oem.
When I switched to carb I did put a regulator on it and set the pressure that way. We still ended up using the regulator. It's pulling through the old pump because we needed it to run and run now. Runs fine. We did it this morning before he had to go to work. Set the regulator at 5.5. he plans on dropping the tank at a later date to remove the old pump and make a pickup tube. But we need to find an in-tank filter we can use first
 
This one had the least amount of miles and was the oem.
When I switched to carb I did put a regulator on it and set the pressure that way. We still ended up using the regulator. It's pulling through the old pump because we needed it to run and run now. Runs fine. We did it this morning before he had to go to work. Set the regulator at 5.5. he plans on dropping the tank at a later date to remove the old pump and make a pickup tube. But we need to find an in-tank filter we can use first

Why not just replace the sending unit with one for a carbed engine,that has the sock filter ?..
 
It was some $45 Edelbrock one. Not sure other than that
 
If you keep replacing pumps there is a reason. Pays to use oem parts sometimes.

Over the counter auto parts pumps are the worst.
In my experience your 100% Correct, and the problem is not necessarily the pump. although all I have ever used were OEM. The problem lies in the fact that the pump is FUEL COOLED, so when you run the tank below lets say 1/4 or more, on turns or incline/decline or simply run out of gas, the pump may be out of the fuel for however long, so its not being cooled. Almost every pump I have ever changed showed signs of having been run hot or frankly just burned up.(connectors melted)So if you want the pump to live,it has to stay cool in the fuel.
 
Tank is a 40. And sending unit is for 25. So when it says empy there's 15 gallons in it, and it's always had gas added at about 1/4 on the gauge. Fixed now either way :)
 
Tank is a 40. And sending unit is for 25. So when it says empy there's 15 gallons in it, and it's always had gas added at about 1/4 on the gauge. Fixed now either way :)
Well that's a pretty good safety margin. I sure wish I had that on all the Third Gen's I have dropped the tank on. Good Luck.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom