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Is there any need for a 1.5" draglink? And other x over questions

protechk5

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Im lifting my k30 in like a week, alls I need is my x-over parts now. I think im just going to go with the sky kit that is $375, but im not sure what size their draglinks are. Im going to run a 1.5" tierod for sure. Im going to be running 40" mtrs on 6-7" of lift. I'll probably get hydro assit later this summer and maybe some sort of hi steer or reverse hi steer depending if it will work with my diesel. This will be my DD that I drive ALOT. Most years I drive 15,000 to 20,000 miles a year, and go wheeling on the weekends, nothing too hard but it will get a good beating every now and then. Also Im still not sure what tierod ends to use, I think Im going to use the chevy passeger side one and the short dodge driver side one, does that sound good?

My lift will be Kerts shackle flip with 6" shackles and a 3" block until I can finds some rear springs. My front will be 6" Alcans that are 2" longer with heavy duty 6" shackles and a zero rate. With the zero rate and of me redrilling my preches that axle will be moved forward 2 1/2"

Heres some pictures of it now stock on 33's

n68111287_32192860_5690.jpg

When I first got it

n68111287_32192680_2891.jpg

Me plowing with it

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Me flat towing muddybuddys piece of crap

n68111287_32192661_8927.jpg

me trying to flex out
 
Why not run a 1.5"? More beef! The price wasn't that big between the 1.5" Tie Rod I just ordered from ORD and their smaller ones... I can't imagine the draglink being that much different either. Plus you'll never have to worry about that being a weak point in your steering.
 
I just ordered my crossover from NorthWest Fab. Couple things to consider. If you are moving your front axle forward your typical crossover arm will likely not work. The reason is because the draglink and tierod will likely hit eachother. I ordered NWF arm cuz I plan on doing a 52 or 56" spring swap at some point and I would have to buy the passenger side arm again for the reasons I just stated. There are a couple companies that make the double ended arms to relocate your tie rod behind the axle.

The thickness of the tierod isn't much of a factor in as much as you are prolly not ever going to bend the tierod once you go highsteer. Since you won't bend it cuz it's tucked away you won't bend the drag link. Now, if someone has better experience with hydro assist putting more stress on the drag link then they need to chime in. Maybe thicker would be better in that case. That realy comes down to where you decide to mount your ram though- attached to the draglink or tierod. Make sense?
 
Mudstud said:
That realy comes down to where you decide to mount your ram though- attached to the draglink or tierod. Make sense?

you can't mount the ram to the draglink. it would bind when you flex.

I run an ORD crossover setup with 44's. There is no way I could bend the draglink. something would give out before that happened.
 
gmc4cw said:
you can't mount the ram to the draglink. it would bind when you flex.

I run an ORD crossover setup with 44's. There is no way I could bend the draglink. something would give out before that happened.

so are you saying 1.5" draglink is overkill?

im running a 1.25" now, but once i buy a bent draglink, i was planning to go 1.5" as well, just to be safe.
 
I believe that is what he is saying. Thanks for that correction. I think I'm thinking of full hydro. I have seen some setups with it angled (toyotas) and figured somehow that was tied into the draglink. Now as I think about it they angle them cuz they can only have 5" of throw but they only make 6" throw rams so they have to cheat it by angeling it.

Bottom line as I understand it is if you aren't going to be running rocks and likely bending your tierod then 1.5" draglink is overkill. Cuz when one bends it applies stress to the other. Especially if you have hydro assist.
 
alright yeah well i just went with the ord x over kit and got a 1.5 tierod. im sure ill go with hydro assist soon so over kill or not i dont have to worry about that.
 

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