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Is this a 14FF?

bmsmalley

bmsmalley

1/2 ton status
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Aug 1, 2005
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Location
Montgomery, Texas
So I found this secrect junk yard and was hoping to find a D60 front but found this instead. It has dual wheels and I believe it is a 14FF, which i am also looking for. $75.00 is the price, is this a deal for a 14FF if this is what it is?

dully pumpkin.JPG
 
yes it sure is, however if its dually it could be a cab and chassis version which is too narrow to use in a fullsize like your k5.
 
what do I need to measure? There are a couple of others at this yard but I thought this one might be the best pick as it was still on the frame.
 
Whoa, I don't know about you. But I'm lazy, which means that If someone already went to the trouble of pulling an axle out of a truck I would be getting that one. LOL I'd just pull the diff cover and go.

Measue inside spring pad to inside spring pad. I forgot the measurement, but someone else will chime in. Or measure your K5, then compare that axle's measurements.
 
If its a dually and a 14ff, which indeed a 14ff, it will be too narrow for a Blazer, inless you want duals to tuck inside the fenders.
 
You need an axle with 42.5" center to center spring pad spacing to be a direct swap into your blazer with the exception of a conversion u-joint. Don't forget to grab the top plates as well since yours won't work.
 
Lets not confuse him now.

If its a dually then it has a 1 ton spring perch width. This can be fixed by cutting them off and welding new ones on.

The issue with wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface or WMS as people refer to it is the measurement from the flange where the studs go through and the wheel sits to the other.

There are 4 widths.
Dually
Single Wheel
Van
and Cab and chassis (commonly referred to as a wrecker rear amongst some)

The cab and chassis rear will be too narrow. Someone will chime in with exact measurements or you can search. That would be the case where you cant use it at all.
 
Stomis said:
Lets not confuse him now.

If its a dually then it has a 1 ton spring perch width. This can be fixed by cutting them off and welding new ones on.

The issue with wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface or WMS as people refer to it is the measurement from the flange where the studs go through and the wheel sits to the other.

There are 4 widths.
Dually
Single Wheel
Van
and Cab and chassis (commonly referred to as a wrecker rear amongst some)

The cab and chassis rear will be too narrow. Someone will chime in with exact measurements or you can search. That would be the case where you cant use it at all.
Click to expand...

I said SPRING PAD spacing. 1 tons and dually, cab chassis are all different than a 3/4 ton with a spring pad spacing of 42.5" center to center. :deal:
 
4X4HIGH said:
I said SPRING PAD spacing. 1 tons and dually, cab chassis are all different than a 3/4 ton with a spring pad spacing of 42.5" center to center. :deal:
Click to expand...

No no I know you did but in the first couple posts they were referring to wrecker rears and them being too narrow then we jumped topic to the difference in spring pads also
 
4X4HIGH said:
Here is what he typed.

So i told him what to measure and what the measurement is he's looking for.
Click to expand...

:doah:

I was just trying to clarify thats theres two different measurements being tossed back and forth in this thread and to be aware that one of those measurements can make the axle completely useless.... thats all.
 
Personally id pass on a dually axle, 14b are so common, find what you need (srw) and get it, dont waste time on something thats not "bolt on." If you are putting the axle under a K5 you need a 14b that is 67.5" from wheel mounting surface to mounting suface. Good luck
 
Find a 70s 3/4 ton truck. It will have a 14ff, be a bolt in for a K5. If it's a 2wd, just have to get new shocks mounts. If yah find a 3/4 from the 80s, look to see if it is a full floater, alot of them had the POS semi float....
 
Thanks guys for all the info. There were several that were unbolted and I remember one still under a bare frame that might be "my lucky star" (sorry but the wife and daughter was listening to Madonna just now). I will chime back in next weekend with what I found and picked up. Thanks for your support here, anybody have a D60 they want to let go of as that was the real quest in my search today.
 
broncoman6524 said:
Whoa, I don't know about you. But I'm lazy, which means that If someone already went to the trouble of pulling an axle out of a truck I would be getting that one. LOL I'd just pull the diff cover and go.

Measue inside spring pad to inside spring pad. I forgot the measurement, but someone else will chime in. Or measure your K5, then compare that axle's measurements.
Click to expand...

FYI, if you take this measurement it will give you an incorrect number. You need to measure from center pin to center pin or and easier way since the pumpkin is in the way to get a straight measurement is to (if axle is still installed) just put the end of the tape measure on the outside edge of the passanger side leaf spring and measure to the inside of the drivers side leaf spring to get either the 40.5" 3/4 ton, or 42.5" one ton measurements.
 
Big Blzn said:
FYI, if you take this measurement it will give you an incorrect number. You need to measure from center pin to center pin or and easier way since the pumpkin is in the way to get a straight measurement is to (if axle is still installed) just put the end of the tape measure on the outside edge of the passanger side leaf spring and measure to the inside of the drivers side leaf spring to get either the 40.5" 3/4 ton, or 42.5" one ton measurements.
Click to expand...
You got the measurements backward, Butthead! It's 42.5" for 3/4T and 40.5" for 1T.:doah:
 
YOu are right CHRIS. Sorry but my original intent was to post about the actual way to take the measurments and not what you mentioned. I guess the sushi and Sapporos are still affecting my thinking. Still quite loopy. Me needs to go to sleep.
 
Just to be clear on the C&C axles, you can replace the dual rear wheel hubs with single rear wheel hubs and move the spring perches. This will give you have the exact same wms as a single rear wheel axle. The only difference is the backing plate flange on the C&C. So if you do a disk brake swap you have an axle that will work in your blazer.

I do believe the tube thickness on the C&Cs are thicker as well.
 
what years are we talking about...up to 90? or 2000?
 
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