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Is this a deal?

K85 Octane

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I'm going to run 37 or 38" tires, something like that. Running a lunchbox locker in the front 60. I dirt trail climb mostly, but will end up in some rocks.

I can get two complete sets of stock axle shafts (4x inner and outer) AND spicer hubs (30spline) for $500.

Deal or no deal?

:D
 
Stock 60 shafts go for about 100 per complete side. $200 to equip driver and passenger inner and outters in my neck of the woods unless they have ctm knuckle joints
 
Spend that money on 35 spline outers and hubs/drive flanges, the 30 spline outers are weak but everything else is plenty strong for your tire size. Makes more sense to me to spend the money on the stronger parts and not break vs. having lots of spares.
 
The post above sounds good to me. I am always thinking what my next weak link is. There will always be one. I know a lot of people that would say buy the spares and keep the outers as the weak link. Personaly I prefer to have my weakest link contained in the diff. If the lunchbox breaks first due to stock carrier strength then the day is over. If an outer shaft goes first then maybe the day is only delayed... Just food for thought.
 
Yeah, I'd love to just break hubs, they are easily replaceable. Heck, even swapping to flanges when I get to the play ground, over the manuals, sounds easy.

lot of food for thought
 
grab the spicer hubs and get them broched to 35 spline. thay will be stronger than warn hubs. and if you happen to pop one thay fail in the LOCKED position NOT the UNLOCKED position like warn hubs.

when spicers are in locked position thay are basicly a slug / drive flange. and no aluminum other than dial body . so solid steal inside guts.
 
spend the money on 35sp outers and dont worry about em. especially with that size tire i dont forsee too many issues.
 
grab the spicer hubs and get them broched to 35 spline. thay will be stronger than warn hubs. and if you happen to pop one thay fail in the LOCKED position NOT the UNLOCKED position like warn hubs.

when spicers are in locked position thay are basicly a slug / drive flange. and no aluminum other than dial body . so solid steal inside guts.

can you go into some more details about broaching the hubs? I like spicer stuff, didn't realize it might be better than todays stuff. I figured, depending on where I was going, I might just throw some slugs in there for the day, and pull them out for the trip home. :dunno:

ooo I like thinking about beefy d60 stuff :)
 
When i do 35sp im just gonna go with this.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-6813311-dana-60-35-spline-stubs-and-slug-kit.html

400 bucks 35sp outers and slugs.

Slugs have eliminator so it just takes 4 bolts per side to stick em in when you get to the trail and not have to worry about breakin hubs.

Lovely, thanks for the link Chris. I so need those

Also I agree that the Warn hubs are crap and spicers are stronger but with 42s I have not broken a warn hub. I have broken one with 44s but I broke the inner and outer along with the hub
 
would you get those standard stub shafts or upgrade to the others?
Are those pricy U joints in my future or do the spicers hold up well?
 
Here is the thing with u joints, if you break one, you are likely to take out an inner or outer with it. At the very least after repeated u joint breaks you are going to egg out the hole in either the inner or outer.

Spicers hold up pretty good. I am confident that if I had the kit Chris mentioned that I would not break shafts.

If I were going back up in tire size to a 44" tire, I would have to be full chro mo ctms and drive flanges.

I would say that kit with flanges and 10 factory outers and spicer joints would be a pretty good upgrade for just about anyone with stock shafts
 
few places do the 35 spline machine job on the inner gear for the spicers.

otherwise thare bone stock when done. and matterial removed to do 35 spline from 30 is not much and still stronger than warn if you ask me.
 



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=948788

Durasolid used to make a bunch of Yukon's axles. Yukon dropped them because of quality control issues and not meeting supply needs. I along with several other guys I know had Yukon products that were during the Durasolid era that were total pieces of crap. One of the rear axles that was sent to a buddy of mine was cracked when he opened the box. I have been a big Yukon basher over the years and mostly from what I have seen and through communications with a Yukon Rep it seems that alot of the issues for myself and my friends was inferior parts being supplies most likely by Durasolid's parent company.

Durasolid has poor quality control on front axleshafts in the design, metalurgy, heat treat and final machining. Some parts work good, some are broken while still new in the package and some break on the first run. Buying and running their front shafts is a gamble. I would hold out for Ouverson Engineering 4340 Dana 60 front shafts that should be for sale soon.


The Ten Factory stubs are 260 for the pair so 20 bucks more than those spicers but.....

The ten factory shafts are 4340 Chromoly
double heat treated
And come with a 10 year warranty.

Seems like a no brainer to me.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-12...ly-dana-60-gm-35-spline-outer-stub-shaft.html
 
Use the $500 and upgrade to 35-spline stubs and some type of flanges or hubs. Also make sure you have at least the non-neckdown inners. I broke a necked down inner first and drove out in 3wd. That would not have been a fun trail fix because it required pulling the carrier out to get the broken piece out. I then broke stock 30-spline outers on two occassions. Fortunately these didn't take out the spindles also and I repaired them on the trail, but spending an hour in the mud swapping parts is not my idea of fun (no air tools, and had to disassemble the u-joint to swap in the new stub...a complete inner and outer shaft assembly would be much faster). I found a 3rd 30-spline stub twisted when swapping the pieces. This was with the skinny and rather short 13/38 TSL's and stock 6.2 diesel.

I have since gone to non-necked Spicer inners, Spicer u-joints, and Yukon 35-spline stubs and have ran much harder trails for years with 39.5 TSL's with no issues. 78Buford ran all Spicer stuff in his front D60 under a 7k truck with 42's and built big-block. He finally did break a stub but the spindle bearing was shot allowing it to groove it out, and then went all chromo.
 
I don't need to take out the carrier to get a stub out, I got me a strong telescoping magnet and I have pulled out stubs with it no problem.
:thumb:
Use the $500 and upgrade to 35-spline stubs and some type of flanges or hubs. Also make sure you have at least the non-neckdown inners. I broke a necked down inner first and drove out in 3wd. That would not have been a fun trail fix because it required pulling the carrier out to get the broken piece out. I then broke stock 30-spline outers on two occassions. Fortunately these didn't take out the spindles also and I repaired them on the trail, but spending an hour in the mud swapping parts is not my idea of fun (no air tools, and had to disassemble the u-joint to swap in the new stub...a complete inner and outer shaft assembly would be much faster). I found a 3rd 30-spline stub twisted when swapping the pieces. This was with the skinny and rather short 13/38 TSL's and stock 6.2 diesel.

I have since gone to non-necked Spicer inners, Spicer u-joints, and Yukon 35-spline stubs and have ran much harder trails for years with 39.5 TSL's with no issues. 78Buford ran all Spicer stuff in his front D60 under a 7k truck with 42's and built big-block. He finally did break a stub but the spindle bearing was shot allowing it to groove it out, and then went all chromo.
 

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