is this a round bolt sm465

[88k5blazin]

I saw this on craigslist and the post said its out of an 82 blazer. to be honest i'm just getting back into working on the rig after a few years so I can't even tell certain parts anymore just by looking at them. i'm looking to get a sm465 with the round bolt pattern that's 32 spline going to an np 205

 

[tRustyK5]

That would be a 32 spline 465, with a 208 and the round 6 hole pattern on the adaptor.

 

[88k5blazin]

That would be a 32 spline 465, with a 208 and the round 6 hole pattern on the adaptor.

Would I be able to hook up a np205 instead of the 208 without any modifications?

 

[sweetk30]

need the adaptor if I recall for the shifter pivot boss and notch for the shift rail .

I know were one is I might be able to get my hands on it .

 

[82355]

Why not just run the NP208?

Martin

 

[88k5blazin]

Why not just run the NP208?

Martin

I was under the impression the 205 was stronger then the 208. I also have. Set of the 1410 cv driveshafts from HAD that I got setup for the 205. Can those still be used on the 208?

 

[dyeager535]

I'm starting to lean towards believing the 241 is a better option, as long as you install a slip yoke eliminator. Last I read the 241 is rated for more input than a 205, the low range is better, it weighs less, and the t-case shifting is the same from 1981-1991 on the 1/2 ton trucks, so no figuring out a different shifter/boot.

Slip yoke is the only downside to the 241 as far as I can tell, and while not particularly cheap, the rarity of the round pattern 465/205 combo can sometimes make assembling that combo problematic. Not to mention the shifters are different '85+, since the adapter changed, although not sure how hard that is to work around.

Of course, the speedometer cable version 241 we can use is only one year, but the '89's are still out there.

 

[Russell]

I wouldn't bother running a 205 unless it was in a doubler situation... Heavy, crappy low range and did I mention heavy? For as often as you hit a 241's aluminum housing the argument of the cast iron housing being better is moot. Yes, fully gear driven is nice but hardly mandatory.

I run an NP241 behind a Duramax in my Tahoe and have never had so much as a hint of a complaint from it.

 

[454Sub]

I prefer the 205 over the aluminum cases simply because I can neutral or engage the front or rear outputs separately, which for my Burb, being 20 something foot long, is a huge plus over the low range of the 208/241. Plus, my BB makes up for the lack of low to a point anyways.

 

[82355]

I never do front dig in my 1990 K5 with the triple sticked doubler. As far as I am concerned, it is more of a novelty than anything else.

An NP205 has brute strength on it's side (and the ability to twin stick, if you're into that kind of thing). Otherwise it sucks. It's heavy. They don't shift very well. They are loud. The gearing SUCKS.

Martin

 

[dyeager535]

Not to derail the thread, but where does the brute strength comment factor in? Obviously bouncing it off of rocks the AL case would lose, but the 241 is rated for more torque than the 205. Is there something not being factored into the torque numbers that has the 205 winning the ultimate strength contest?

 

[dremu]

Not to derail the thread, but where does the brute strength comment factor in?

Chain-drive vs gear-drive?

-- A

 

[dyeager535]

Being rated for more torque, the only difference then would be longevity? I can agree with that, but no idea what the chain life is supposed to be on them.

 

[diesel4me]

I'd say the cast iron NP-205 has a higher "brute strength" when it comes to landing one on a rock versus a aluminum cased Np-208 or 241...along with gear to gear instead of chain drive..but those chains can take a lot of torque and abuse,and dont give grief all that often..
Both have their pluses and minuses...lower gearing in low range gives the 208 and 241 a bit of advantage over the 205...

 

[88k5blazin]

I'll have to consider the 241 now when I reconfigure my truck. I think I'm gonna stick with the 465/205 for now cause that's how I have everything fitter currently.

Right now my truck is set up as a big ole mud truck. I want to get everything back I to shape and a bit more reliable before I take it off the road and make it geared toward rock crawling. I may start a build thread for that.

Plus I need a few more good romp arounds down in south jersey to remind me of when life was more carefree and my only concern was who I was going mudding with

 

[mwood1985]

it don't matter imo. its whater you have that will make the truck run and wheel that works best for your budget. I grenaded a rebuilt 205 last year and shattered the case on another last week. if a parts gonna fail its gonna. im running a mild 1970 355 originally rated at 250hp with stock pistons 305HO heads a weiand street warrior intake and headers on 38s a 465/205 twin sticked and 4.56 gears. low range im great haha. durability.... lets see.. that little 275ish hp motor has destroyed 4 12 inch clutches til I went with a Centerforce im on my 3rd sm465 3rd np205 stripped the splines out of a front driveshaft and still on my original 10bolts with stock axles and just gears and detroits... explain that