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Is this the go to steering box/frame crack fix?

PaulZ

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There's probably 100 pages on this but I haven't had much luck looking. Rough County two piece. Other options?

s-l400.jpg
 
That cross brace is a big deal. It transfers the torsion away front the gear box area of the frame

The kit shown above is important, but it is more to correct the symptom than the torsion problem
 
Thanks guys. Well I'm pretty disappointed in myself. When I bought my K5 and read about this problem I looked under there and no cracks. Figured since I don't beat it too hard it would be OK. Got under there today, crack running across the bottom of the frame, at least. Should have bought the bolt on brace back then.
 
every rig i build get the bolt in brace from the start . then if i needs it i drill the end of the crack so it wont travel anymore . v-out the crack and weld it up . grind it flush so the repair plate sits good . then burn it in as the directions show . ]

and take your time and work the plate as there stamped and not 100% flush fit . i also use some 7/16 bolts and nuts to draw the plate in to the frame were the box bolts up this gets is real good . otherwise if there is a gap the bolts are to short and the plate will crush over time and let the box get loose again .
 
i was surprised that my suburban with almost 200k miles and 37" tires and 6" lift didn't have a cracked frame, even thou i went with crossover steering i still welded on the plate better safe than sorry
 
I put the ORD bolt in brace kit on. My K5 does have a small repair along the bottom of the frame that goes into one of the bottom bolts to the gear box. So far everything looks good and I haven't had to buy the weld on kit. I would highly recommend the bolt in brace kit, it has helped my Blazer.
 
Installed the brace years ago and recommend it for prevention. Would be a good upgrade to install the repair as well.
I used grade 8 longer bolts for the box mounting and used locking nuts where they will fit to keep the box from loosening up and working.
My 74 had the box torn loose by the previous owner. He welded on a home made steel plate that has worked for over 30 years. I don’t think the repair available now was even available then.
He also welded on a support across and behind the bumper that runs from rail to rail.

The plate crude rough and ugly but it works, so I left it alone.
 
Out of all the square bodies I've owned,only the '79 C-10 Bonanza 2wd I had was the only one that cracked the frame at the steering box..
Had a certified welder stitch it back together,he felt it wasn't a must to plate over it,so I took his word for it..it never gave any grief again..

Most of the 4x4's I've had ,were equipped with Fisher plows and the plow push frame evidently beefed up the frame enough not to let it flex and crack there..the 3 K5's I had,a '71,'72,4x4,and a '71 K-10 Suburban and a '75 2wd K5,all had no frame cracks,none of them had ever had lift kits or big tires,or plows on them..

One truck I had,a '77 GMC K2500,had been hacked by a previous owner with ill fitting lift kit front springs and 36" tires when I first got it..removed all that crap and put it back on stock springs & tires--the steering box area on the frame never cracked,but the cross members had several sheared rivets and had been welded to the frame,and bolts put in place of the rivets..that truck got a Fisher plow setup as soon as I got it back on stock suspension..
 
So if your frame isn't already cracked installing the ORD cross brace should suffice? (Without the steering box plates needing to be installed?) Correct?
 
Update. Well I have the weld in plates done, now I guess I should add the bolt on brace. My frame was cracked across the bottom and halfway up the side. Curious, on the weld in plates some were about $70, which is what I paid, and some are $150 (on Ebay). Are they all the same, they all look the same..

Looks like the bolt in brace is only available direct from ORD..
 
yeah, same
I got mine from 4WP during some sale or whatever
I think my brace came from ORD
 
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