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Is this too big?

Big10

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my new hubs stud holes are measuring .624 and dorman part number (610-283) for wheel studs are .650. so is .026 too much knurl to press into the hub? and dorman 610-228 specs say .625 , which i believe wouldnt be enough. thoughts?
 
I would try sliding one of them into the hub and look. I agree with you that the smaller one won't work. It will end up loose and spin.
If the larger one fits too tight before it gets to the knurled section then don't try to go farther, otherwise give it a shot.
 
I would try sliding one of them into the hub and look. I agree with you that the smaller one won't work. It will end up loose and spin.
If the larger one fits too tight before it gets to the knurled section then don't try to go farther, otherwise give it a shot.

All of that. .026 is less than 1/32nd. The hub is/should be softer at the flange to allow the metal to move as studs are pressed in. I woul say minimum .015 interference fit.
Use a press if possible. If not, get some extra lug nuts several flat washers. Put two or three lubed flat washers, then a new lubed lug nut backwards on stud. Then pull the stud in. If nut gets gualed throw it away, and use another.
Are these new hubs? Never had a stud?
 
All of that. .026 is less than 1/32nd. The hub is/should be softer at the flange to allow the metal to move as studs are pressed in. I woul say minimum .015 interference fit.
Use a press if possible. If not, get some extra lug nuts several flat washers. Put two or three lubed flat washers, then a new lubed lug nut backwards on stud. Then pull the stud in. If nut gets gualed throw it away, and use another.
Are these new hubs? Never had a stud?


yes , brand new
 
These are what I used
They fit right and haven’t had any issues
REPLACEMENT D60 WHEEL STUDS IN 3" LENGTH....Dorman #610-563 (9/16-18; 3" OAL; .658 serrated diameter)
 
Somewhere out there is a spec for knurl vs. hole diameter, but I can't find it here, wasn't sure if I posted it when I was searching in the past.
 
I was always taught to never pull a stud in, you always press or hammer them in. My entire career as a mechanic I've only drove them in on anything from semis to cars. Pulling with a nut can stretch them or mess up the threads.
 
I've only been able to install a lug stud maybe twice by using washers and a lug nut and tightening the nut--it usually resulted in the threads stripping on one or both,or the stud failed to seat fully..even if it seats all the way,then the stud may have stretched some..

They do have special tools available to install them,but as Truckman stated,the "correct" way is to use a press or pound them in..it does suck having to pull the axle to do it though..
 
I was always taught to never pull a stud in, you always press or hammer them in. My entire career as a mechanic I've only drove them in on anything from semis to cars. Pulling with a nut can stretch them or mess up the threads.
I know that what we get taught is hard to change. However, I have pulled many wheel studs into the hub with several washers stacked with grease in between each one and the nut. Also using grease on the threads. I have done it on semi trucks too rather than pull an axle and wheel hub. You may ask why, but it was to get a truck back to work faster. Then once you figure out a successful technique, ya do it again. I saw guys try it without multiple washers or grease in between, that wasn't always good.
But now I have a couple of bearings that I got from Matco which are designed just for this task. One small for light trucks and one for heavy duty vehicles. It does work, just make sure that it has room on the hub to sit flat and centered over the hole. Then lube the threads, pull the stud in.
 
I know that what we get taught is hard to change. However, I have pulled many wheel studs into the hub with several washers stacked with grease in between each one and the nut. Also using grease on the threads. I have done it on semi trucks too rather than pull an axle and wheel hub. You may ask why, but it was to get a truck back to work faster. Then once you figure out a successful technique, ya do it again. I saw guys try it without multiple washers or grease in between, that wasn't always good.
But now I have a couple of bearings that I got from Matco which are designed just for this task. One small for light trucks and one for heavy duty vehicles. It does work, just make sure that it has room on the hub to sit flat and centered over the hole. Then lube the threads, pull the stud in.
I have done that also. Piece of cake on a replacement, but on a new hole it’s iffy.
 
I have done that also. Piece of cake on a replacement, but on a new hole it’s iffy.
Good point. Depends on the dimensions, but if it's a new hub, of course I go to the press after I find the correct spacer to push against.
 

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