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Wanted ISO 12 Bolt 6 Lug rear differential

i got a friend who use to tuff truck thrash his short bed on 3.08 open 10 bolts . he was spinnin 38" tsl swampers and blew up a lot of motors and few th350 trans . never popped a axle .
Good to know. I won't be thrashing & it is the gears 4.56 that are the issue, not the axel.
I'm learning, I might just have new (better? ) gears installed & move on to other items to spend my money.
No offense taken, just wanted to clear the term "rookie".
I really appreciate the knowledge here from you & others, because yes I'm ignorant to the mechanic repairs.
I was hoping to do the repair/upgrade once. I've been told to 12 bolt is an upgrade & simple drop in.
I'm hearing conflicting opinions here.
If the 12 bolt is not worth the "upgrade", then I should just rebuild the gears in the 10 bolt.
The axel didn't fail the gears did maybe I just need better 4.56 gears (idk what's in there) I bought it with the current gears.
 
have you pulled the cover yet? then you might be able to see the damage. take some pics; someone here can probably help. where are you at in AZ?
 
have you pulled the cover yet? then you might be able to see the damage. take some pics; someone here can probably help. where are you at in AZ?
I have not, my mechanic checked & saw metal shavings.
I agree, I need to pull it to see for myself.
Yes I'm in Phoenix.
 
I would look at complete rebuild of the 10 bolt. The 12 bolt would be throwing in unknown problems for no real gain. I personally hate the stock 10 bolt with gov-locker, but as a cheap ass redneck that beats on junk until it breaks they are hard to beat in the situation you say you drive it. Only rear end that I would look at otherwise would be 9.5 14 bolt semi float because it is an actual upgrade and can be done for probably same price as complete rebuild of 10 bolt. Personally I would go 14 bolt for the upgrade of brakes and parts strength, and I have multiple 10 bolts just sitting here.
 
I would look at complete rebuild of the 10 bolt. The 12 bolt would be throwing in unknown problems for no real gain. I personally hate the stock 10 bolt with gov-locker, but as a cheap ass redneck that beats on junk until it breaks they are hard to beat in the situation you say you drive it. Only rear end that I would look at otherwise would be 9.5 14 bolt semi float because it is an actual upgrade and can be done for probably same price as complete rebuild of 10 bolt. Personally I would go 14 bolt for the upgrade of brakes and parts strength, and I have multiple 10 bolts just sitting here.
Thank you for the input!
I appreciate the truth.
I've heard the exactly same input a few times. I think the 14 bolt might be too much for what I need vs the costs.
I'm not cheap but I have a [Boss] Wife that will not shut up if I spend that kind of cash, since I just bought the truck & new Harley last year..‍♂️
 
I'm curious what the going rate is these days, to pull an old truck into a driveline shop and say "rebuild the rearend". If it's really bad, you're talking probably $750 for a gearset and bearings and $800 in labor? If the seal/bearing surfaces on the axleshafts are bad, probably a few hundred more. The nice thing there is you have new parts and possibly a warranty. Any used axle picked up might need some of that same work.

If you read about the 9.5" axle, there is a way to buy 2 of them (or 1 plus axleshafts and new brakes) and make a 6-lug version, all bolt in. Finding 4.10 would be easy. I don't know about 4.56. I'm just saying that the shop budget above lets you buy quite a bit of parts if you do the legwork.

It seems reasonable, that once you figure out why your axle died (pro tip - verify yourself that it really did) and you had no other previous problems, to get it repaired and see how it does for you. If you break it someday, that may be incentive to look into something better, or just get it repaired every so many years.
 
I'm curious what the going rate is these days, to pull an old truck into a driveline shop and say "rebuild the rearend". If it's really bad, you're talking probably $750 for a gearset and bearings and $800 in labor? If the seal/bearing surfaces on the axleshafts are bad, probably a few hundred more. The nice thing there is you have new parts and possibly a warranty. Any used axle picked up might need some of that same work.

If you read about the 9.5" axle, there is a way to buy 2 of them (or 1 plus axleshafts and new brakes) and make a 6-lug version, all bolt in. Finding 4.10 would be easy. I don't know about 4.56. I'm just saying that the shop budget above lets you buy quite a bit of parts if you do the legwork.

It seems reasonable, that once you figure out why your axle died (pro tip - verify yourself that it really did) and you had no other previous problems, to get it repaired and see how it does for you. If you break it someday, that may be incentive to look into something better, or just get it repaired every so many years.
The 4.56 is why I didn't suggest the 14bsf to him as a cost reduction

I have picked up a bunch of the 6 lug 14 before and ended up selling them after I converted to 8 lug as I always do.
Going rate these days for me $450-$600.
4.10 is common, 3.73 is more common.
No stock was offered in 4.56 so unless the previous owner did a gear change it's not likely
 
The 4.56 is why I didn't suggest the 14bsf to him as a cost reduction

I have picked up a bunch of the 6 lug 14 before and ended up selling them after I converted to 8 lug as I always do.
Going rate these days for me $450-$600.
4.10 is common, 3.73 is more common.
No stock was offered in 4.56 so unless the previous owner did a gear change it's not likely
Yes, the vehicle had been modified: 353 motor, 4.56 gears, 700R4 Transmission & 35 inch mudders.
Eventually going to move to A/T & maybe downsize to 33 inch, not sure how it will look. The mudders are like new so I'll ride em out.
 
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