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Greg Saldaña

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2023
Posts
39
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Location
Panama
Hey everyone, I am back looking for more advice haha. My last post was in January, and it was about the transmission rebuild kits I could find. I ended up calling Pioneer and going with one of their rebuild kits. When the transmission was torn apart, we found that the only thing that was broken was the brake band. After this we knew we had to open the torque converter, and well, that was our problem. We went ahead with the full rebuild anyways, and I again, had to call and order the right torque converter. The car has been all put together since March 1st I believe. This is my first concern and the problem I am having now, is that sometimes it doesn't want to shift unless it's high up in the RPMs. I don't know how fast the car is going in first gear because the speedo doesn't currently work, (I'll ask about that later in this post), and it also doesn't have a tachometer so just take my word for it. The TV cable was repaired I think because the one that was bought by the person who was doing the rebuild was too short. Sometimes however, the transmission will shift smoothly. You won't even hear the engine because it's just shifting so perfectly. It usually starts to act up after you've gone full throttle or after doing pulls.

Pictures ---
https://imgur.com/a/EyBEFzR

My second question is about the speedo. I currently have the entire dash out because I was also chasing a fuel gauge issue which I have now fixed. My Blazer has the speedometer cable connected directly into the transfer case. I took the cable out, cleaned it, and greased it, but it still won't display the speed. Now, if you grab the end of it, and twist it counterclockwise it'll display the speed, but as soon as you stick it back into the transfer it becomes obsolete. I don't want to put the dash all back together before fixing this issue because I am currently on a one week vacation from school. I even put a new cable we had bought into the transfer case and tried it with that and it still didn't work, so I know the problem isn't the cable.

Pictures ---
https://imgur.com/a/3In7Pi6

My third question is about the circuit board. Where can I get the whole assembly? Not the gauges or lights or anything, but rather the backboard and the circuit board. I don't really know what this is called, but I'll put up a picture.

Pictures ---
https://imgur.com/a/u48DQ6x

My fourth question is about a missing hose by the passenger side chasis rail. I don't know if it's a fuel hose or a return hose because I know the fuel hose is 3/8s and the return hose is 1/4, so I want to know what to put there.

Pictures ----
https://imgur.com/a/TbvIe0g

Sorry for the rambling and such I just want to fix all of these issue I have been having before I go back to school. I have already ran out of gas twice. That was what kind of motivated me to do this. I have more questions, but these are the more important ones, so I'll make a separate post soon. Any help is wanted, and thank you for any advice that is given.

The old 305 doesn't sound too bad. Don't worry it won't stay like this. I did it because there's a horrible exhaust leak that gets into the cabin, so I'll be replacing the gaskets. I already drove a straight piped v8 at 16, I'm now 18, but I like being able to have conversations in the Blazer.

Sound clip ----
https://imgur.com/a/CQ5sq9U
 
4th question is easy any fuel hose of correct diameter. It is probably the canister line.

Now the transmission is a 700r4, and the TV cable is critical adjustment. It can be tricky to get right in a non factory application.
I can help but I need to know what carburetor you have or if tbi, and did you replace that TV cabe I'm your pictures?
 
#1. Have you put a new vacuum modulator on the transmission and ensured the vacuum hose on it is hooked up and the hose isn't cracked/broken?

#2. Look at the condition of the gear on the end of the speedo cable and the drive gear inside the transfer case. Sounds like that is where the speedo problem lies.

#3 Guage cluster parts can be obtained from salvage yard, sellers on here, LMC, Brothers etc.

#4. Replace all 3 rubber portions of hose and hose clamps with new and make sure air can get through the one that has no rubber on it now, it looks kinked going to the rear of the rig.
 
Lmc will have instrument cluster backing plate. You'll have pick the one you need. Warning lights or gages, tach no tach. Year. Please tell us the year and model when asking questions, helps a lot
 
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Wes Harden said:
4th question is easy any fuel hose of correct diameter. It is probably the canister line.

Now the transmission is a 700r4, and the TV cable is critical adjustment. It can be tricky to get right in a non factory application.
I can help but I need to know what carburetor you have or if tbi, and did you replace that TV cabe I'm your pictures?
Click to expand...
What is a canister line? It looks like a quadrajet, and no the TV cable was not replace it was repaired.
 
70jimmy said:
#1. Have you put a new vacuum modulator on the transmission and ensured the vacuum hose on it is hooked up and the hose isn't cracked/broken?

#2. Look at the condition of the gear on the end of the speedo cable and the drive gear inside the transfer case. Sounds like that is where the speedo problem lies.

#3 Guage cluster parts can be obtained from salvage yard, sellers on here, LMC, Brothers etc.

#4. Replace all 3 rubber portions of hose and hose clamps with new and make sure air can get through the one that has no rubber on it now, it looks kinked going to the rear of the rig.
Click to expand...
I thought the 7004r4s didn't have a gear like the TH400s. I left some pictures of the cable and the hole in the original post. About the gauge cluster, I'll look into LMC, and will replace all hose. Thank you for the input and noticing a problem with the line.
 
your picture shows a 700r4 K case with round t case adapter. Q jet works. Rock Auto ATP Y228 and Sonnax AS101K. I strongly recommend stop driving the truck till the cable is replaced and adjusted. The fresh rebuild is endanger of being ruined. I am assuming a lot here. The trans is factory and all the vacuum lock up controls are present and connected ? The new torque converter is a lock up style ?

​

 
Agree with NOT driving the truck until you get the TV cable adjusted correctly. Its that important!
The vacuum canister should be on the radiator support, drivers side, a black can with a couple vacuum lines running to the carb and to the fuel tank (the hose thats missing on your frame lines).
 
Wes Harden said:
your picture shows a 700r4 K case with round t case adapter. Q jet works. Rock Auto ATP Y228 and Sonnax AS101K. I strongly recommend stop driving the truck till the cable is replaced and adjusted. The fresh rebuild is endanger of being ruined. I am assuming a lot here. The trans is factory and all the vacuum lock up controls are present and connected ? The new torque converter is a lock up style ?

​

Click to expand...
Oh wow, I didn't know it was that serious. I will buy that immediately. The trans is factory, and I believe everything else is connected as the trans has less than 500 miles on it. The new torque converter is a lock up style. Thank you for that, but you kind of scared me too haha.

This is the torque converter I bought --- https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4996407&cc=1050668&pt=8668&jsn=1759
 
76zimmer said:
Agree with NOT driving the truck until you get the TV cable adjusted correctly. Its that important!
The vacuum canister should be on the radiator support, drivers side, a black can with a couple vacuum lines running to the carb and to the fuel tank (the hose thats missing on your frame lines).
Click to expand...
Thank you, I won't drive it. I think maybe that was deleted and that's why there is no hose there. The Blazer also doesn't have catalytic converters (I don't know if they even came factory with those). We don't have emission rules here. I don't remember there being a black can on the driver's side, but I'll look closely in the morning.
 
I forgot you are in Panama, I am glad you were able to get your parts.
The 85 had vacuum and electric switches to signal the converter to lock and unlock. I'll have to refresh my memory, so we can make sure yours is all connected and working. Having the lock up working helps keep the trans oil cooler, since in 4th gear the pumped fluid through the cooler slows. You may want to consider a second cooler, if you haven't one already.
 
Greg Saldaña said:
sometimes it doesn't want to shift unless it's high up in the RPMs. I don't know how fast the car is going in first gear because the speedo doesn't currently work, (I'll ask about that later in this post), and it also doesn't have a tachometer so just take my word for it. The TV cable was repaired I think because the one that was bought by the person who was doing the rebuild was too short. Sometimes however, the transmission will shift smoothly. You won't even hear the engine because it's just shifting so perfectly. It usually starts to act up after you've gone full throttle or after doing pulls.
Click to expand...
This sounds like a sticking TV - either in the cable or inside the valve body. If the shift points were always off, then the TV setting and governor would be suspect.

So verify everything on the cable. Could it be kinked or have some dirt/rust inside that hangs it up? If you remove the cable from the throttle linkage, you should be able to smoothly feel the spring in the valve body. However, this only confirms that the back of the T.V is moving. The innermost part is floating (labeled as "A" below) and is known to stick sometimes. The #1 reason it sticks is debris, which obviously is a bad sign, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the fluid. The #2 reason to stick would be normal wear in the valve body. The quick fix is to shut off the engine and rap the throttle quickly a few times to coax that part loose. This should help with the troubleshooting. There is a spring sold to help this issue - it is not present from the factory: https://transpartswarehouse.com/74741n-3-gm-700r4-spring-anti-stick-throttle-valve.html. There is also a kit where you bore it larger and use a larger valve.


1711373526816.png

Maybe also get some pictures of the throttle linkage and verify the geometry is good and no sticking/binding.
1711373919573.png
 
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Blue85 said:
This sounds like a sticking TV - either in the cable or inside the valve body. If the shift points were always off, then the TV setting and governor would be suspect.

So verify everything on the cable. Could it be kinked or have some dirt/rust inside that hangs it up? If you remove the cable from the throttle linkage, you should be able to smoothly feel the spring in the valve body. However, this only confirms that the back of the T.V is moving. The innermost part is floating (labeled as "A" below) and is known to stick sometimes. The #1 reason it sticks is debris, which obviously is a bad sign, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the fluid. The #2 reason to stick would be normal wear in the valve body. The quick fix is to shut off the engine and rap the throttle quickly a few times to coax that part loose. This should help with the troubleshooting. There is a spring sold to help this issue - it is not present from the factory: https://transpartswarehouse.com/74741n-3-gm-700r4-spring-anti-stick-throttle-valve.html. There is also a kit where you bore it larger and use a larger valve.


View attachment 470731

Maybe also get some pictures of the throttle linkage and verify the geometry is good and no sticking/binding.
View attachment 470732
Click to expand...
Hey so I am just now putting everything in the cart. I am buying everything from Summit Racing and I have the ATP Y228 and the Sonnax AS101K put in my cart. I was wondering if I should get the Sonnax AS101K or the one you provided for me. ( https://transpartswarehouse.com/74741n-3-gm-700r4-spring-anti-stick-throttle-valve.html ). Just wondering if there is one that is better than the other or if I should get both.
 
Those are totally different parts. The one I linked to requires pulling that valve out of the valve body. Replacing the cable first certainly makes sense. You want to rule out everything else before digging into the internals.
 
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