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JB Stick whos used it

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1979jimmy350

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Ha anyone used the JB Stick? If you have how has it held up?

I have a intake manifold that i have modified to remove the EGR port and that has left me with a hole to be filled. I had originally planned on getting it welded but around here is is $95 an hour for welding and one hour min. I am thinking of using JB weld to save money. What you guys think?
 
I used JB stick on my Temp. sensor, in my Trans. pan......
I had the bung welded in, but the welder did a terrible job, and it leaked at the weld.
I used the JB stick, and covered the weld... haven't seen a drop since! :thumb:

I dunno about using it to block off an egr port.
That strikes me as not safe.
Why not use a block-off plate?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2056/Application/?query=Liter%7c5.7
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
I used JB stick on my Temp. sensor, in my Trans. pan......
I had the bung welded in, but the welder did a terrible job, and it leaked at the weld.
I used the JB stick, and covered the weld... haven't seen a drop since! :thumb:

I dunno about using it to block off an egr port.
That strikes me as not safe.
Why not use a block-off plate?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2056/Application/?query=Liter|5.7
Click to expand...

The port i am trying to block off is where the gas would be feed in behind the throttle body. The EGR valve normally mounted to the intake and had its supply thru a metal line off the manifold. I will use a block off at the manifold. This side will not see hot gas only manifold vacuum, maybe manifold pressure someday :whistle:
 
WOW :eek1: on welding prices.

you need to ask around and find a guy that does it at home on the side.

i have a guy 10 min from me he is super good 40+ years as pro and home welder. he does 10-30 per small job for me all the time. and anyone else off the street. but big jobs its per hr type time/price tables.

jb weld dosnt like to expand/contract to much. so watch were you use it.
 
It will work fine in that application. Use the reg jb weld though. The stick isnt as good
 
Threading it and putting a pipe plug in then using the jb weld over the plug would probably be the best option...short of welding. Just find a plug that takes an allen wrench. No chance of leaks and you can still get your smooth surface.
 
The guy with a whipple blown LS engine is concerned about paying someone $95.00 to weld something? lol Take it to the local vocational school. Take the teacher a 6 pack and 20 bucks and he'll have his best student weld it for you.
 
Confedneck said:
The guy with a whipple blown LS engine is concerned about paying someone $95.00 to weld something? lol Take it to the local vocational school. Take the teacher a 6 pack and 20 bucks and he'll have his best student weld it for you.
Click to expand...

The only reason i have the whipple is it was $500:D im to cheap to pay full price for that sucka lol
 
I used J-B "Waterweld" putty on my 6.2 diesel's rotted oil pan 3 years ago,and its just starting to weep again,I think the pan rusted more AROUND the J-B,its not the putty thats failing...I have another good used oil pan that was a GM replacement I need to put on it,but I'm unsure if its the right one for my motor,as I dont know whatyear the engine is,it was a salvage yard special..

I would say to plug the hole up with something else first,then J-B over the plug--if the hole is round ,maybe a small freeze plug can be pounded in there,or some lead balls --I saw a guy use a deer slug to block some passages in a broken water valve once at a factory to stop it from flooding the place before!..he took the lead slug out and pounded it in with a hammer...:D...of the manifold is cast iron it could be brazed shut too..
 
I've used used JB Weld for numerous things in the past, including a repair to the stripped fuel inlet/filter on the carb on my '67 Cutlass. That repair held for 7 years, through numerous heat cycles and the ravages of daily driving. I used the 2-part mix, not the stick.
 
Do you have a picture of the hole you're trying to fill? It seems odd you can't fabricate a little plate or make a block-off out of the original tube. Can you take the original tube and run a bit of a bolt into the inside then grind it off flush?

I did some grinding on my intake plenum (TPI) and then smoothed out some holes with JB Weld. I know I looked in there at about 1 year of use and nothing looked any different. You want to drill or grind on the metal first (not just wire brush) to get clean metal and then JB sticks to it pretty well. Can you take a tapered reamer to the hole first? The taper will insure that if the JB fails later all you get is a vacuum leak and not a plug run through the engine.
 
Blue85 said:
Do you have a picture of the hole you're trying to fill? It seems odd you can't fabricate a little plate or make a block-off out of the original tube. Can you take the original tube and run a bit of a bolt into the inside then grind it off flush?
Click to expand...

No i can't do it this way, the intake is for a GM v6, they had a boss that came off them that the EGR Bolted to then the was a cast passage that ran the gas to the intake air track. I cut the boss off and ground away the passage, this is going in a car i am building and i want it to look clean that's why i deleted the boss.

I did find some thing interesting while searching for solutions. There are these aluminum brazing rods that you can use a propane torch with. I think i may try them on some scrape cast aluminum 1st and use that if it works well

http://www.alumiweld.com/
 
I've done some limited work with those sticks, and in wire form. They work pretty good, but are tricky.
The problem is, aluminum does not change just before it melts. All the other metals, you can tell when they are about to melt.
You have to get the work hot enough to make the rod bond, but not so hot you melt the material you are trying to solder.

There is a wide enough temp difference, that you have some leeway, but you need to approach it slowly.

Plus, if this is a heavy part, you might not be able to get it hot enough with a propane torch.
Aluminum wicks heat away awfully fast. But, its worth a try.
 
Fordum said:
Plus, if this is a heavy part, you might not be able to get it hot enough with a propane torch.
Aluminum wicks heat away awfully fast. But, its worth a try.
Click to expand...

You could try MAPP gas instead of propane, or one of those small brazing torch (MAPP + O2) setups like this...

img_BE2-OX2550KC.jpg


Technically, it's not true MAPP gas, but it still burns hotter than propane.
 
I agree,I have had very limited sucess using those aluminum "welding rods"--they are more like solder,and when I used some to try and repair a tab that busted off a Briggs block on a mower I had to use my oxypropane torch to get it hot enough to flow,and it IS very difficult to know when the metal is going to just liquify and turn into a big puddle...also you cant use the flame to melt the rods,they wont flow right unless the metal itself is right at the liquid state...

I'd like to meet the person who demonstrates those rods on TV--all the ones selling them at swap meets pnly fix holes in beer cans or sometimes they'll do an A/C condensor or tubing,etc,one guy did a hole in an aluminum boat ---they must have some trick because I didn't have too great a luck with those rods..on vertical surfaces,forget it,horizontal ones,I did have some success..my custom aluminum running boards I "welded" with them have cracked and separated...

I have used my arc welder with aluminum welding rods made for that before,it works but the "bead" looks more like bird crap...TIG would be best most likely...

I just wire brushed my flaky oil pan some and used brake clean on it to wash off all the oil after draining it..I did try using 50/50 solder on the worst areas first with tinners flux and managed to fill some deep pits and the holy areas,then I smooshed the J-B Waterweld on it...its held up remarkably well ,a lot longer than I thought it would--but I am vertain if I try loosening the drain plug ,the pan will just crinkle up and I'll be screwed...so I've replaced the filter a few times in 1000 miles and put some fresh oil in by suction gunning some out thru the dipstick tube..

I bet the J-B or Quicksteel type of stuff would work on an intake if it doesnt fall off an oily, hot oil pan...I always feel metal is more trustworthy though,despite some amazing things epoxy can stand up too..
 
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