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JB sye install in np241...issue, updated new question

JT88K5

JT88K5

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Just finished installing the JB sye kit. Along with the kit there was included a snap ring which I neglected to use. After cleaning up and having a bourbon....to clear my head, I started to think about this "extra" snap ring. During the reassembly, I did notice, but didn't give it much thought at the time (DOH!), that when I put the gears on the new shaft, and installed the snap ring from the old shaft, that once it was seated, it didn't fit real snug if you know what I mean, yet it didn't seem unreasonable. (Bourbon may be contributing to the run on sentence thing you may have noticed.)

So, I'm now thinking that the "extra" snap ring was to be placed on the new shaft. I suppose I should call JB to see if that's what they intended that snap ring for. Probably do that tomorrow. I don't recall them mentioning anything about where to use that snap ring in the instructions. The bugger is that it's completely assembled.

Anybody with experience installing the JB kit know if this will be a problem?
 
Turns out it's not a problem. Apparently that specific snap ring gets damaged on removal often enough to warant including one in the kit. It was a pita to get that particular snap ring off. Tcase is installed. Case closed. Time for some Devils Cut.

Feel like I'm talking to myself.
 
Well sometimes you can solve a lot but talking to yourself!

I did one a couple of years ago. No problems, but also would have had to go back through the sheet to see what you were talking about, and since you got it all handled, I am just rambling!

Glad you got it! I want one for my Jimmy!

('90 that is...)
 
The 241 and SYE kit are pretty basic, but until it's in the truck, working, don't really know if you got it right. :)

I'm in the same boat, except mine is sitting on the floor in the garage, waiting to be installed.
 
I'm nervous to test mine out after the sye install, cant count how many times i shifted it through the gears to "test" it before it went back in.
 
Hope to have my rear driveshaft by Friday. In the meantime I need to replace my alternator (bad bearing)and wire up the front locker. I hope to have it together...again..by next weekend. :k5:
 
I've essentially done the SYE twice now. If you're able to switch through the ranges and spin the shafts, I'm confident you'll be just fine.

Don't forget to fill it with ATF! :D
 
Snoozer said:
I've essentially done the SYE twice now. If you're able to switch through the ranges and spin the shafts, I'm confident you'll be just fine.

Don't forget to fill it with ATF! :D
Click to expand...

Haven't actually filled it yet. :whistle:
Was gonna get to that yesterday but crawling all over the rig to run wires and cut a slot for the switch for the elocker took longer than I expected (what doesn't?). I was gassed after that, plus it was 6pm and my real wife was waiting on me for supper:zombie19:
The tcase seems good no noises and cycles through all the ranges. Waiting on a new driveshaft now.
 
Whats the driveshaft going to run you? Going to be going down that same road once I get the t-case in.
 
Right around $400 for 1350 cv shaft. A local shop has a good rep for doing driveshafts. They could probably use a computer to keep track of stuff imo ..but the owner is getting close to retiring the way he sounded. Old school guys for sure.

I was debating whether to go to tom woods, but like to support locals if I can. Not too many of them left, seems you gotta buy everything from the net these days, nobody keeps stock on much of anything. Even auto parts stores have to order anything but oil and filters.
 
About what my local shop quoted me as well. Same one that machined an NP241 front flange to fit the SYE output shaft. :)
 
I just got done having a JB SYE kit installed in my NP241. It works great, Its paired up with a Tom Woods 1350 cv driveshaft.
 
JT88K5 said:
Right around $400 for 1350 cv shaft. A local shop has a good rep for doing driveshafts. They could probably use a computer to keep track of stuff imo ..but the owner is getting close to retiring the way he sounded. Old school guys for sure.

I was debating whether to go to tom woods, but like to support locals if I can. Not too many of them left, seems you gotta buy everything from the net these days, nobody keeps stock on much of anything. Even auto parts stores have to order anything but oil and filters.
Click to expand...

I did the 1350 shaft by TW's too and paid about the same amount. Still had to balance shaft after receiving so I think going local was a good decision. TW's did reimburse me for the balance but still a bit of a pain to do on a brand new driveshaft.
 
I love my SYE. I ended up going with a high angle driveline rear shaft. I still need to do the driveline brake from jesse...
 
Follow up. I have my new rear cv driveshaft mounted. Currently the pinion is at 11 degrees, the driveshaft is at 18 degrees. What do you shim it? I was going for a 5 degree to bring it 2 under, but I, m only seeing 4s and 6s on line. If I use 4 degree I'm 3 degrees under. I've read 1-3 lower is what to shoot for. I have a rear sf and stock springs.
 
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I think you can have custom shims made if you want 5 degree shims. I would get the 6 degree and see how much your axle wraps up during load. I had to have my spring perches cut and re-welded, I also have a 14bolt SF. After everything was installed and I drove in around for a few weeks to let everything settle I had to get some shims to correct the angle.
 
Ok, so I don't see that you have posted it here, but do you have any lift?
I mainly want to know for my knowledge. I believe that I am having issues with the angles on my 14SF install. No SYE yet....
 
Well... I ended up ordering 4 degree shims. Once installed, my angles were 17 on the shaft ( was 18 prior), and 15 on the pinion ( was 11). I found a write up on pirate where the fellow said his ds angle decreased 1 deg for every 4 deg of pinion increase. Makes sense as increasing the pinion raises that and of the ds. So I hit the mark of 2 deg difference that I was shooting for.

With a 4" sf lift in the rear and the stock 87 springs, it rode great for the first few miles. Then I started to get some vibration. Was totally fine, had it up to 55 mph just a few minutes earlier. Then it dawned on me that I may not have tightened the straps on the rear ujoint on the ds. Having received the new ds the week before, I mounted it to check my angles to measure for the shims, and didn't tighten those on purpose because I figured I would disconnect it to install the shims, which I didn't. After installing the shims I did rechech the flange bolts, nfi why I didn't hit the rear again. ( I did torque the ubolts fer sure)

Lucky I didn't jack up anything. Once that little oversight was corrected, it worked like a charm. Took it to get inspected Saturday (at a chainstore nonetheless) and had them Check the alignment.

I just finished putting this together after picking up the k5 back in March. One tons w 4.56 gears, crossover steering, 4" lift, 35x12.5 bfg on 17 x9 wheels -4.75 offset, which don't stick out past the fender ( state insp again) . Didn't plan on the np241 and sye, but to fix the vibration that seemed like the better long term solution. So while I was in the "building" mode, I said wtf. The engine is original, and I figure on doing that at some point, but the funny thing is I caught myself googling LS swap today. Does anyone on here do interventions??

Back on track...I've put about 50 road miles on it. Had it up to about 70, which I think is about 80 on the speedo, and it rides and drives pretty decent, no vibrations from the drive train that I could detect.
 
I can't offer any deterrent for the LS swap..
I want one as well....
 
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