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Jeep Blazer

Ok so I've been having this problem for about a week and in that time I've made some assessments on here that I now think are wrong. So I'm going to put together what I've come up with from the last week and see if you guys have any new suggestions.
1. 3 weeks ago when I first got it, I replaced the spark plugs and wires.

2. 2 weeks ago I had a wiring problem and changed the fusible links on the starter and to the left of the master cylinder.

3. At the same time as the links, I reran ground wires: Large one from my battery to the block. And a small one from the battery to the frame.

4. The wiring problem fused something in my starter solenoid which caused the starter to continue to turn even after it started up. So I replaced starter and solenoid.

5. Then it started stalling out on me when I drove it.
A.) It happened the first time when I started it and drove about a mile and it just stalled out. So I replaced the control module inside the distributor cap and the coil pack on top.
B.) Then it started doing it as soon as I put it in gear and went to move it. (forward or reverse)
C.) It starts right up on the first crank after it has sat for about 2-3 hours. It will idle and sound great as long as I don't drive it. No missing. The timing sounds good. But then as soon as I try to move it, it will stall out.
D.) Once it stalls out, it will just turn and turn but not fire up. Then after 2-3 hours, I can go back to it and it will start up on the first try and idle fine again.
C.) Sometimes, after I let it idle for about 15-20 minutes, it will drive just fine. For a few blocks and then it will sputter out again.

6. It idles fine. But we put a spark checker on the plug wires anyway. We only tested 3 but they were all 3 firing.

7. While it is idling, I can push the gas pedal and rev it and it sounds fine. Not choking out then, only when I go to drive it.

8. Started intermittently. It happened one day and then drove fine for 2 or 3. Then would do it twice in a day and not happen for another week. Now it is every time.
 
If your taking about the way the engine runs when you refer to timing. You can't base it off of that. Throw a light on it. You can advance it a couple extra degrees for the altitude but don't get too crazy. Change the fuel filter as a preventative measure. It could be a contributor to the issues as well. I know you say the module is new but don't rule it out. Have seen them bad out of the box.
 
Got to poking around and found a hole in a vac line. Picked up some new line and got rid of a lot of the old bad looking stuff. Then I used a can of seafoam. She seems to be running really well. I hope the problem will go away for a minute. I need to get it to pass emissions and titled. Any advice on emissions in Denver?
 
Well been running fine for me for a few days. I thought I fixed the problem a few times only for it to come back, so I don't want to get too optimistic, but hopefully it was that vac line. It was the big one going from my brake booster to the back of the carb. It looked like someone had drilled about a 1/4 hole in it. It was just perfectly round like it had been done on purpose but I can't figure out why. But I replaced it and it sounds a lot better and hasn't stalled on me again. I'm thinking maybe flooding from not being able to get enough air to gas ratio? Sound plausible?
 
Poorboyk5: so I hate sounding like a noob but we all start somewhere I suppose, I don't have a timing light and I don't know what you mean by advance it a little for altitude. Maybe I could cruise down to the springs sometime that's good for you and you could show me some stuff?
 
New Tach Gauge Cluster

I picked up this today.
8488808986_444a6675f9_m.jpg

Wish I could have done a little more research first but it was a steal and have wanted a tach so I figured if it won't work I can post it on Craigslist and get my money back out of it. But it is out of a '73 Blazer or truck, the guy couldn't remember. Anyone know if it'll fit? Also I tried to get it in today and see if it would work but couldn't get the old gauge cluster out. I don't have a dash or that plastic cover over them. So I felt like it should just be the 7(or so) screws around the white part. I removed them and had to work the gauges out from behind the metal part of the dash but they would only pull forward an inch or so. I assume it is a wire holding it in, but I can't figure out how to get back to it. And my old gauges all work except the temp one. What color wire would that have been stock coming out of the back of the fuse block into the engine bay? I would like to get it hooked back up.
 
Here is a link to a thread where I installed a factory tach into my 1990 K5. I mixed and matched the two gauge clusters to build this.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293281

You have a 1986 Blazer, so there will be some differences. That '73 cluster will have some mechanical gauges. I would just use the tach and fuel gauge from that old cluster in your OEM cluster. It'll work better.

Your speedometer cable is probably what is holding you in. Reach back there and depress the clip that holds the cable to the cluster and it should pop right out.

Martin
 
I guess i should explain that if you take off that black plastic cover you will see how all of the gauges are just held in independently with a few screws. Once those screws are out, they just kind of pop out.

Martin
 
Deuling said:
FYI, use brake cleaner instead of starter fluid when troubleshooting. Starting fluid is bad stuff. Unless you don't like your bearings in the bottom end of the motor.. :whistle:
Click to expand...

there's nothing wrong with starter fluid being used appropriately...
 
Ryoken, is it a douche move if I steal the idea for your grille? I usually try not to be a sheep but that looks really nice.


Martin, thanks. That link helped a lot too.
 
sure, have at it... if ya need me to find it in my novel, just ask... :haha:
 
Thanks but I think I'll read it. I have to get mine to pass emissions and tagged before the lady will let me start dropping money on aesthetics. I've only gotten through 5 pages so far and I feel like I might use a few of your mods. I don't think they'll look as good as yours.
 
Damn!!! You weren't kidding about a novel. Except it's honestly more like a series. I keep getting through a few pages and then clicking on a link to another of your build threads or someone elses. I want to do so much.
One thing I've been thinking about is a roll bar. Now I do some pretty decent trails but I max out at Holy Cross. And from what I understand from my reading, the 86 has a built in roll bar. Is this correct? If so is it worth anything? I mean I MIGHT roll it on its side or top one day. For the type of riding I like to do, is this roll bar going to be sufficient to protect me? If not, are there any aftermarket ones available? I can't seem to find any and don't really have the place to fab up stuff like that. My townhouse HOA doesn't even like me changing my oil. And I put a big shower curtain under my oil pan to make sure nothing drips on their concrete.
 
afaik it's just a double walled panel, not really a roll bar in any sense of the word..

there are some factory bars for pre 80 rigs.. pretty minimal for additional safety, and pretty bolt-in.. post 80, think you can modify an older one to fit..

but honestly, you'd be better off finding a local fab shop and having them bend up a 2 or 4 point simple rollbar for you out of some real tube.. far, far superior results..
 
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