bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I ran 33's for a while and never was able to rub them on anything. I can barely rub 35's now when it's super flexed out but I've got a 4" lift now. I think you'll be fine with 33 or less.
CK5
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Joe's 72......"almost" a build thread
- Thread starter JBerno
- Start date
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Looks like a nice ride. What's with the shotgun shell holders on the passenger footwell?
JBerno
1/2 ton status
The PO's dad put those in back in 72', I asked and was told they were for the old stlye road flares 
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Its amazing what just a little "clean up" will do
Thats not rust in the pic, just some glue that was under the carpet.
Thats not rust in the pic, just some glue that was under the carpet.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 2,647
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- 1,043
Nice truck. Reminds me of mine along time ago. Are the shocks some sort of coil over? Don't think I've seen that on one of these before.
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Yes, they are coil over....should that tell me anything??? (Not being an ass here, trying to learn and not sure how to ask the above without sounding like a prick?)
I stopped and had the front end looked at today....they guy said "those are coil over shocks, I dont think you can get those anymore for this. You will have to replace with ????????"
Were these standard?
I stopped and had the front end looked at today....they guy said "those are coil over shocks, I dont think you can get those anymore for this. You will have to replace with ????????"
Were these standard?
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
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I don't know but somebody on here will. I can tell you shock technology today is way better than it was back when these trucks were made. when the time comes to replace them I doubt you will have a need for a coil over type shock. I was just surprised to see it
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Cool, thanks. I think they do need replaced now. I need to do some front end work on it also to get the steering better, I need to see if it is something I can handle (how difficult). I do not have a lot of experience with cars, but I am a pretty quick study
Coil overs plus leaf springs?
Sounds like a goofy JC Whitney product to me... Ditch them and don't worry about it, I'm positive they are not "factory". Ditch that weird spring on the front tie rod too.....also not factory.
Drive it...drive it...drive it. Fix a few small issues. Drive it some more. Enjoy it.
Steering issues are almost always fixed by replacing worn 40 year old bushings and drag link ends. It's cheap money to fix and a good confidence builder for a new Blazer guy.
Sounds like a goofy JC Whitney product to me... Ditch them and don't worry about it, I'm positive they are not "factory". Ditch that weird spring on the front tie rod too.....also not factory.
Drive it...drive it...drive it. Fix a few small issues. Drive it some more. Enjoy it.
Steering issues are almost always fixed by replacing worn 40 year old bushings and drag link ends. It's cheap money to fix and a good confidence builder for a new Blazer guy.
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Thanks man, I am going to seeking alot of advise on here.
I have decided that I am going pass on a lift and just replace the factory springs, I will go with 33's if I can do it with no fender rub. I am going to keep those old Rally wheels on it until I can find somthing a little more "retro" and factory for it.
I can't say that I am going to "restore" it, but I am going to keep her as close to factory as I can, I am going to try my hand at building a "custom type" center console and rear side panels for the stereo equipment so that I dont have to cut the dash. As goofy as it sounds I even like that big ass steering wheel.
I can tell you that once the weather lets me I am going to pull that top off
. It may not go back on 
I have decided that I am going pass on a lift and just replace the factory springs, I will go with 33's if I can do it with no fender rub. I am going to keep those old Rally wheels on it until I can find somthing a little more "retro" and factory for it.
I can't say that I am going to "restore" it, but I am going to keep her as close to factory as I can, I am going to try my hand at building a "custom type" center console and rear side panels for the stereo equipment so that I dont have to cut the dash. As goofy as it sounds I even like that big ass steering wheel.
I can tell you that once the weather lets me I am going to pull that top off
. It may not go back on
JBerno
1/2 ton status
What are your thoughts on replacing the springs? How tough is this if I was to give it a go by myself? I am just going back with stock/factory, any tips or tricks I should know or is this better left to a professional, I am game but just don’t want to get in over my head.
It depends on your mechanical ability and tools.
Spring swaps are just a matter of removing the bolts at each end of the leaf and the u-bolts around the axletube. That's about it. I think the hardest part will be finding a real set of stock springs to put back in.
Obviously, you should take every opportunity to clean and paint areas that you can reach when you are disassembling things. A spring change should give you good access to the rear of the frame, the axle and the springs hangers.... clean 'em up and shoot some Eastwood Chassis Black (satin) on them. That will give you an OEM look when you're done. It's black, but not TOO black or shiny...just that semi-flat look like the factory had.
The spring swap might affect your driveshaft lengths if you have a lift spring on there now. Mark where the driveshaft slipjoint is now (Black sharpie) then mark it when you can fully collapse the slipjoint. You are going to want to insure that the driveshaft isn't bottomed-out when the new springs go in or you'll do a lot of damage once you start driving it.
PB Blaster is your friend on an old truck. Soak all the bolts before you start (a few times). Air tools speed things up, but you can do everything with a simple set of 1/2" sockets and a long ratchet.
Spring swaps are just a matter of removing the bolts at each end of the leaf and the u-bolts around the axletube. That's about it. I think the hardest part will be finding a real set of stock springs to put back in.
Obviously, you should take every opportunity to clean and paint areas that you can reach when you are disassembling things. A spring change should give you good access to the rear of the frame, the axle and the springs hangers.... clean 'em up and shoot some Eastwood Chassis Black (satin) on them. That will give you an OEM look when you're done. It's black, but not TOO black or shiny...just that semi-flat look like the factory had.
The spring swap might affect your driveshaft lengths if you have a lift spring on there now. Mark where the driveshaft slipjoint is now (Black sharpie) then mark it when you can fully collapse the slipjoint. You are going to want to insure that the driveshaft isn't bottomed-out when the new springs go in or you'll do a lot of damage once you start driving it.
PB Blaster is your friend on an old truck. Soak all the bolts before you start (a few times). Air tools speed things up, but you can do everything with a simple set of 1/2" sockets and a long ratchet.
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Best "mod" yet, this is the maiden voyage as the top has never been off of this before
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Congrats that truck looks like it should be easy to get complete.
My one question, though, is why are you thinking about doing the wiring? If it's completely stock, and all the electrical works, I wouldn't mess with it. Electrical projects were always more difficult and time consuming than I thought they would be for me because they can be very tricky to troubleshoot.
If I were you, I'd do the basics. Seats, carpet, etc., and fix any problems.
Remember - it it ain't broke, don't fix it!
My one question, though, is why are you thinking about doing the wiring? If it's completely stock, and all the electrical works, I wouldn't mess with it. Electrical projects were always more difficult and time consuming than I thought they would be for me because they can be very tricky to troubleshoot.
If I were you, I'd do the basics. Seats, carpet, etc., and fix any problems.
Remember - it it ain't broke, don't fix it!
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Thanks man
The wiring was a thought before I actually picked it up, this is my first "old" car and was not sure what to do or where to start.
You are right, I think I lucked out on this one. New tires, new springs, upholstery and dress up, eventually new paint
The wiring was a thought before I actually picked it up, this is my first "old" car and was not sure what to do or where to start.
You are right, I think I lucked out on this one. New tires, new springs, upholstery and dress up, eventually new paint
Save the rear side panels... Don't throw them out. Even though that passenger side one looks bad, you can stretch the original vinyl over a new panel and be as good as new.
Save everything you remove. Original stuff is valueable, so keep it ALL until you get more experience with these trucks and can make educated decisions about what to let go.
Reproduction side panels are $500 a set. You can restore yours for less than $20.
Open top driving...... There's nothing better!
Save everything you remove. Original stuff is valueable, so keep it ALL until you get more experience with these trucks and can make educated decisions about what to let go.
Reproduction side panels are $500 a set. You can restore yours for less than $20.
Open top driving...... There's nothing better!
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Thanks man, I appreciate the tips.....
Kepp e'm coming
I am looking for a rear seat, I foundone on CL for $225 about 20 minutes from my house, has some tears, has seat belts. Is this an average price? Should I jump all over this one?
FYI, I am building my center console since the original is broke, hope it turns out OK, I will post some pics later on.
Kepp e'm coming I am looking for a rear seat, I foundone on CL for $225 about 20 minutes from my house, has some tears, has seat belts. Is this an average price? Should I jump all over this one?
FYI, I am building my center console since the original is broke, hope it turns out OK, I will post some pics later on.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You can get a brand new aftermarket seat for ~$300.
If you care about authenticity, a new upholstry kit will set you back $100 and if it needs any foam replaced, those are super expensive.
$225 seems high to me. I bought two front seats on eBay for $60 and had them shipped to Ca from nevada for $60 a few years ago. But if the seat is in really good shape, maybe it's worth it since it comes with seat belts too.
If you care about authenticity, a new upholstry kit will set you back $100 and if it needs any foam replaced, those are super expensive.
$225 seems high to me. I bought two front seats on eBay for $60 and had them shipped to Ca from nevada for $60 a few years ago. But if the seat is in really good shape, maybe it's worth it since it comes with seat belts too.
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Finally got my new 33"s and a 4" lift to go with them.
Also ordered (and got today) all new gaskets for the doors, windows, and top. What a beautiful day
Also ordered (and got today) all new gaskets for the doors, windows, and top. What a beautiful day
JBerno
1/2 ton status
Here are some pictures of a console I am building, I wanted to go back with the original but also wanted a place for my deck and cupholders without cutting up the dash. Still some more to do on it but its a start
