CK5
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jump start

It is to keep the old battery from killing the new battery. It is not likely to be the reason you can't start it right now.
 
Make sure each battery is fully charged first. They don't always come fully charged off of the shelf.
 
just a short recap , drove it home a couple of weeks ago , turned it off came out about 5 minutes later and starter just clicked.
 
After that, trouble shoot all electrical connections for corrosion and good mechanical connections. Check that your ground is securely bolted to the block. I had an S10 once that kept having trouble because the bolt that held the ground cable to the block would vibrate out.
 
If the clicking you hear is your starter relay, (put your hand on it and if you feel it click) you *should* be able to rule that out. Should only click when you turn the key to try and start. If it's a random click from your GP controller, check your relay :P

Move onto your starter. If all connections are good, wack that sucker with a hammer, wack the starter solenoid. IF that gets it going, your starter is bad. If it doesn't get it going, starter could still be bad, or it could be something else.

Only thing to start key/ignition/wires/relay/wires/starter. Get a schematic start tracing or work backwards from the starter. Hell I didn't even know these things had starter relays till I read this and looked it up on steelsoldier.
 
wacked the starter with a hammer lit right up . drove it around for about an hour parked it shut it off tried to start and just clicked. atleast i know its the starter now and dont have to do some weird vodoo **** to find the problem. looks like it going to be a pain in the ass to r&r though. is there a good source for a new or rebuilt starter?
 
Did a quick google search for '24v 6.2 starter'. Found a couple of them, but not sure quality or reputation of the random sources. There was an ebay seller who sells a bunch of cucv stuff. I forgot the name, something with 'wolf' or close to that in the name.
 
Did a little digging. Wolfer-parts is the ebay store/seller. Military stuff in general.

Starter Delco-Remy 1998454 - I went to the delco-remy parts site, that number is obsolete and superceded.. by another osbsolete parts number. However using that part number still brings up results.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIL0/91014376.oap?ck=Search_1998454_-1_803&keyword=1998454

Everywhere is super pricey. Try searching for an auto electronic rebuilder nearby who does starters/alternators. Probably be a whole lot cheaper. They're around, even one in my town.
 
the starter on oreillys site looks just like the one on my truck. the others look different. i call around and see what a rebuilder wants.
 
Have you removed your started yet? You may have a broken bolt. The starter ground is through the bolts and to the engine block itself. Make sure your ground wire is hooked up from the fired wall on the pass/side to the intake manifold bolts, it is the braided wire with no insulation. (mine has actually melted away and I replace it with two to be safe) Sometime if your starter has been replaced, they remove the secondary support brackets in the front that bolt to the engine and it causes the starter to sheer a bolt. It sounds like a starter bolt has sheered and you have poor ground for your starter.

2nd, you don't have to change both batteries at the same time, that is an old wives tale, especially if you had them load tested. You can jump your truck using another vehicle with 12 volts, you just make sure that you hook up to each battery like it is a single battery. I have jumped my M1009 using 2 trucks (when I was trying to prime my FI system only to learn my brand new NAPA lift pump that I just installed was bad) doing this. It works because the batteries do not have the voltage (24V) to harm the trucks jumping them. When your truck does start, all vehicles have diodes in the alternators that shunt voltage over 12V to ground. So, it is ok to jump your M1009 with a 12V vehicle, on the other hand, I don't suggest using your M1009 to jump another 12V vehicle.
 
I'd use 2 seaparate batteries to jump a 24V truck....its too easy to burn up a computer or other sensors on a later model 12V vehicle,the diodes they install in the fuse box to prevent damage to the electrical system if someone hooks jumper cables up backwards dont always pop fast enough to prevent expensive things from going up in smoke...on an old vehicle you "might" get away with doing it,but its still risky as hell...

I used to jump start my old '63 VW Beetle that had a 6V battery with a 12V one all the time,even after someone told me it was a potential bomb waiting to go off,they said when you put 12V to a 6V battery,instantly you get an 18V potential dead short.....well,one day when I leaned back to hook up the jumpers I'd left connected to the 6V battery under the seat to the 12V jumper battery behind the passenger seat on the floor,a spark crackled like it always did--then the battery under the seat went off like a grenade,and the acid pretty much destroyed all the interior and made the car rot away quickly,despite me dousing it with baking soda and flushing it off good with a garden hose...

I was dam lucky my eyes didn't get any acid in them....I decided it was about time I just replaced the 6V battery and be done with it...my friends dad showed me how to drill into the case of the 12V battery and tap into the cell connector inside it,to get 6V out of it using 3 out of the 6 cells,and he also rigged it up so I could send 12V just to the starter alone...that thing spun over like never before and always started instantly after I did that modification...
 
well finally put on a new starter today. major payne in the ass. that 6.2 sure does not have much room to work with. anyway turned the key and it fired right up. thanks for the help.
 

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